1995 Olds 88 3.8 with supercharger

Wife bought car for kid and neither one knew what they were doing.
Anyway, it quit running and I took it back to used car dealer. They put a used ICM on it. No start. I got it home and put a new crank sensor on. Nothing. I finally checked the fuel pump fuse and it was open. Replaced that and it started and ran fine. Two days later, the check engine light came on. Now it's running rough like a vacuum leak, not sure. The supercharger was not hooked up when they bought it. No belt to turn it, it's worn out anyway. Car has 245K miles. I know, and I would have never bought it, but I'm stuck with fixing it now.
It starts, idles rough and surges some. The check engine light stays on. Reving the engine it still runs a bit rough. It doesn't start right up like it did before either. I pilled EGR valve off and blocked the plate, but that didn't seem to help. Put EGR back on. The plunger moves up and down ok, however it seems weak, but I don't know how much pressure it should take to move it. I didn't put a gauge on the fuel injector rails, but when I press the valve, fuel comes out . I have a feeling it's something simple, but have little experience with these motors. Will a code reader tell me what is wrong? Is there a camshaft sensor and could that be a problem? When he got it home, engine temp was ok and there was no oil pressure warning light. Also with the crank sensor, it had a bad oil leak at the oil filter adapter plate. I replaced the gasket and that seemed to fix that. Please give me some suggestions as to what may be the problem.

It sounds like an accident getting ready to happen.
If it has a supercharger on it you need to fix it.
The fuel pressure can be checked with a fuel pressure gauge.
But if it popped a fuse you need to check amp draw on fuel pump.
A code reader may give you the code that may point to a problem.
But remember a code doe not say replace the sensor it says check it out.
MT

I'd rather not fix the supercharger. The car has enough power for a kid. I just wonder if the computer is looking for info that is no longer being given by it not working. It has run smooth and sounded good until today when the check light came on.
I think I'll take it to the parts store Monday and have them pull the codes. Where can I find the current draw and PSI range for the fuel pump? I'll probably pick up a book on it tomorrow.
I had it running and checked spark from each coil, nothing seemed out of place but I'm sure a set of wires wouldn't be a bad idea. That would probably not cause a check engine light would it?
Kid said there was an oily smell when he brought it home. I checked under and around and did not see any leaks below or on the manifolds. Oil level was still full after I topped it off 2 days ago.
Will the code at least distinguish between electrical or fuel problems? I have never messed with cam sensors so I don't know if the symptoms could be caused by that.

Codes cover more electrical problems.
You need a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure.
or if blowing fuse you nee a volt/amp meter to check amp draw.
If you get code post back code no.
MT

I just got back from auto store and having the codes checked. Nothing really showed up. The car started and ran fine this morning. Now I suspect it got hot and that's what was causing the engine light to come on, although when I got the car last night, the temp looked ok. It did smell hot and the kid said it smelled funny when he came home.
Today I drove about 4 miles and let it idle for a good 10 minutes. Temp gague got up to 200, just slightly over and the fans never did come on. Idling temp seemed to stay around 200. It didn't idle rough or sound bad.
When the auto store ran the codes, there was a camshaft sensor code, but that was in history. He said there were no codes at the time, although the check engine light was still on when I drove there.
When I left there, it went out. Hasn't come back on since and the car has ran for a good 20 minutes. Radiator if full, I checked that.
Is there a way to check the fan kick it temp or something. Or do I just have to drive it and watch the temp gague?
I'm going to autozone later today to pick up something for my van, so I might as well get a book on the Olds too.
At this point, I don't think I have a fuel or ignition problem. For some reason, It appears to get hot which makes me suspect the fans not coming on. Can that make the check light come on and cause it to run rough until it has cooled down and reset? If so, what should I suspect next?
Thank you

Fans come on a about 222 degrees, they can be commanded on with a bi directional scanner. If the lite was on when it was scanned at AZ there should have been a code. You may to have this scanned with a full function scanner.

Car was running fine and now the check engine light comes on again and runs poorly. Code said camshaft position sensor or circuit. When son left the auto store, light went out and it ran fine. Got home and I pulled it in the garage and ran fine there too. CHanged camshaft position sensor, disconnected battery for a couple minutes to clear the codes, rough idle and smells hot. Disconnected cam sensor, won't even start. Changed back to old cam sensor, still runs bad. Put new sensor back in and no difference. Went back to auto store and still getting camshaft sensor code, even after the guy cleared the codes, plus low intake temp code.
Someone said it might be the MAF sensor. It's strange it ran ok into the garage and won't now that the sensor has been changed. Any ideas?