0-60 in 40 seconds!!!

Happy Holidays to everyone. I haven't posted in a while because my Formula has been in the body shop for a little. You may recall that I was struck by some kids in a Sunfire a few months back.
Well, long story short, the insurance totalled my 89 Formula, I decided to keep it, and now it has a beautiful new paint job. BUT! It runs like CRAP!!!
It's idleing very low, and shakes/vibrates when stopped at a red light. It sounds like it's underwater, and can't breathe well.
When I leave the red light, I give it plenty of gas, but it just putts along slowly working it's way up to speed limit. Once it reaches speed limit, if I kick down the accelerator, nothing happens!
No matter how much gas I give it, the RPMs never go over about 3k when I'm in drive. It's a 4 speed auto, and it does shift smoothly when it reaches almost 3k, but if I floor it, the RPMs dont shoot up like they are supposed to.
Could this me an exhaust problem? A transmission problem? Motor mounts loose? Timing problem? Please help!
With the car looking so good, I can't be seen chugging around like this!

Could be the MAF sensor or possibly the catalytic converter may have fallen apart. Ive seen cars do what your is doing, that is when it decides to run, when the guts of the cat. have fallen apart and clog the flow. MAF is the same way, if it runs, it runs like crap if that sensor isn't running properly. Can you smell anything when it runs...like a rich running smell or does it smell normal when it is running?

That makes sense since I was hit in the pasenger door, and the CATs run on that side. I'm going to check it out for the first time this afternoon.

Well, the MAF looks fine, but the exhaust is a little crunched under the passenger side, and I think I can see a tear in one of the CATs.

Well, I would start then by fixing that exhaust. It is probable that that is at least causing some of your problem. As far as the MAF goes, it may look fine but being shaken in a car accident may have damaged it internally. I wouldn't worry about that though just yet if the exhaust is damaged.

This certainly sounds like one of the cats has been damaged and the inside has broken loose and is blocking the exhaust. Remove the cat that is damaged and replace it. Or if you want drive it with the cat off to see if it runs better. I bet you get the performance you once had once this is removed. Of course replace the cat with another one a high flow aftermarket one is cheaper and will do the same job as an oem.

Well, upon further look at the exhaust, it didn't look so bad. The heat shield on one cat was torn, but everything else looks intact. (The pipes are all welded, so I can't just unbolt 'em.)
I did that trick with the paperclip to get the error codes, and it's giving me a 33, which indicates a MAF problem, or ECM problem. So, I bought a new MAF, but it hasn't improved anything! $200 gone! And I'm still getting the code 33!!!
Has anyone worked out a code 33? If it's an ECM problem, I think it's going to cost another $350 at least! Any ideas before I have to put in some OT at work for parts money?

OK, MAF was replaced; original 1989 cats replaced with new hi-flo cats; crusty exhaust was replaced with a Dynomax cat-back system.
Bird still running like crap!
It does smell like gas, and since the new exhaust, it smells like weld, or eggs or something, but I was told that it was normal with a new exhaust - I don't know. And standin outside the car while it's idleing, I can hear what sounds like a vaccuum leak.
Would the vaccuum leak make it run like dook? How do I find the leak, or test the pressure??? Oh, yeah, I how do I deal with the running rich situation?

Well, if you have a vacuum leak, it might explain the running rich. Does the car still have the factory A.I.R. system...smog pump? If it does and they put on a new cat. or got rid of it, there is a tube that feeds air into the exhaust there that could be confused for a vacuum leak, though I think it is a bit louder. I am not sure what that would do for the way the car runs, but it could explain the sound. It is also possible you have a computer problem that is either popping MAF sensors or is the problem in itself. I had an '87 TA that popped 2 MAF sensors and it was a problem with the computer and my ground working together to create captain pain in my ass...

Yes vacuum leak would cause running like crap condition and it could also cause your running rich condition. Your best bet would to perform a vacuum pressure test and make sure its leaking somewhere then ofcourse the next step would be to track down the leak.

My car has a slighter version of this problem as well running rich, sounds like its underwater,, Where exactly are the vacuum hoses and all that located? Then my next question would be how would i go about testing the vacuum pressure and such?

My thoughts exactly. I took my car by 2 shops and they didn't know what a vacuum pressure test was exactly.
I tried following a few hose that come from the canister, but I didn't find any open ended hoses that looked like they weren't connected when they should be. Is it as easy as that?

A mechanic told me to spray throttle body cleaner on the vacuum lines, and if the car revs up, that means there is a leak. My question is, is that cleaner going to prematurely damage my vacuum lines?

No, so long as you don't spray the whole can on one set of lines or anything you'll be alright.