95 cutlass: engine revs high on its own after 15 minutes

I have a 95' Cutlass Ciera SL, and the following problem happens after driving it for about 15-20 minutes. For the first 15-20 minutes, it runs perfectly fine, but after that, I'll be driving along and when I go to stop, the engine keeps reving high, and as I put the brake on, it seems as if the engine and brakes are fighting each other and the car bucks like a bronco until it either stalls or I put it into nuetral or park.......at which time the engine is rev'ing really high.

If it does stall, then when I restart it, its running high again and stalls the second I put it into gear. At this time, I have 2 options:
1) Wait 10-15 minutes and then its fine for another 15 minutes.
2) Give it alot of gas as I'm putting it into gear and then it only runs until the next time I have to stop.

The check engine light is NOT on ( I wish it was so I could get the code and figure the problem out), and the catalitic converter is new.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks
Shawn

I am also having the same problem with my 1988 Cutlas Ciera. Any ideas or fixes?

PCV Valve?

Mine had some oil in it. Not bad though. Cleaned the TB and the IAC. All of the intake looks good.

Mine had some oil in it. Not bad though. Cleaned the TB and the IAC. All of the intake looks good.

Have you checked the TPS? Throttle Position Sensor.
I had a 94 Beretta that used to rev like Crazy. We adjusted the screw for the throttle and it ran fine... till you shut the car off and started it... then the Computer kicked in and re-adjusted the throttle.
We simply unplugged the TPS and set the throttle with the adjustment screw and ran the car like that for about 2 years.

The car is now toast but we got over 300,000km on that little 2.2L engine.

Hope this helps.
Regards.
Hearts88

I don't think it is the TPS though. I've just replaced the TPS and IAC on my Talon. It wouldn't start when it was cold. It would turn over, but die immediately. It would take 8 tried before it would start and hold the idle. Alot of times, it would still die. RPM would drop and not be able to get it back up, then die. It idles crappy all the time too. In between shifts, the idle would stay up high. It was nice because it gave me all the time to shift without having to ref-match, but that's a different story.

The Olds starts fine. It idles crappy sometimes. And just like what the poster said, when driving, the car would start lurching forward, and you have to hit the brakes harder. It would then die. Usually starts up fine then. It's now doing it more and is almost impossible to drive now. It does it even more when making a left turn. TB is clean, and the IAC is clean. No leaks in any hoses, and all vacuum hoses look good too. Still no CEL neither, just when it dies.

I don't think it is the TPS though. I've just replaced the TPS and IAC on my Talon. It wouldn't start when it was cold. It would turn over, but die immediately. It would take 8 tried before it would start and hold the idle. Alot of times, it would still die. RPM would drop and not be able to get it back up, then die. It idles crappy all the time too. In between shifts, the idle would stay up high. It was nice because it gave me all the time to shift without having to ref-match, but that's a different story.

The Olds starts fine. It idles crappy sometimes. And just like what the poster said, when driving, the car would start lurching forward, and you have to hit the brakes harder. It would then die. Usually starts up fine then. It's now doing it more and is almost impossible to drive now. It does it even more when making a left turn. TB is clean, and the IAC is clean. No leaks in any hoses, and all vacuum hoses look good too. Still no CEL neither, just when it dies.

Its The Tps And Aic Sensors It Will Do The Job