Instrument Cluster Lighting Not Operational

I have a 2001 Taurus with about 50K miles where the Instrument Cluster backlighting stopped working...and the Instrument cluster turn signal indicators glow constant with headlamp switch "On". These turn signal indicators dim with the dimmer switch...which they are not supposed to do. All other backlighting, turn signals, and hazards work properly. Any thoughts?

I have a 2001 Taurus with about 50K miles where the Instrument Cluster backlighting stopped working...and the Instrument cluster turn signal indicators glow constant with headlamp switch "On". These turn signal indicators dim with the dimmer switch...which they are not supposed to do. All other backlighting, turn signals, and hazards work properly. Any thoughts?

I have a 2002 Taurus SEL 3.0L 24V Duratec with 125,000 kms,
and having the same problem. My radio, heater panel and headlight switch still illuminate, but not the instrument backlight. Also when
I set the instrument dimmer switch to its mid position, the radio and heater panel lights will flash when the left/right turn signal is on.
An earlier post on this forum
"2001 instrument panel" from bigdawg66 also reports a similar problem.
read the post, he refers to a headlight dimmer switch problem, I have not changed mine yet, but am planning to in the next few days, my
local FORD dealer do not have the part in stock.

I have a 2002 Taurus SEL 3.0L 24V Duratec with 125,000 kms,
and having the same problem. My radio, heater panel and headlight switch still illuminate, but not the instrument backlight. Also when
I set the instrument dimmer switch to its mid position, the radio and heater panel lights will flash when the left/right turn signal is on.
An earlier post on this forum
"2001 instrument panel" from bigdawg66 also reports a similar problem.
read the post, he refers to a dimmer switch problem, I have not changed mine yet, but am planning to in the next few days, my
local FORD dealer do not have the part in stock.

The earlier post refers to a dimmer switch problem, not
headlight dimmer switch problem as I indicated in my last post.

The earlier post refers to a dimmer switch problem, not
headlight dimmer switch problem as I indicated in my last post.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will probably be tearing the IP apart next weekend. I will look at the dimmer switch...but I suspect a ground has opened somewhere...either in the cluster or the wiring harness. I will let you know what I find.

The earlier post refers to a dimmer switch problem, not
headlight dimmer switch problem as I indicated in my last post.

Finally got to pulling apart my IP this past weekend (after first having to replace the alternator that went out on my E150 Saturday afternoon)...Problem turned out to be a connector on the instrument cluster that was intermittent on some of the terminal pins. As you are looking at the cluster and sitting in the driver's seat...it is the connector that is on the upper left and comes in from the back side. This connector contains the pin that feeds the cluster lights voltage as well as the ground for these lights. The voltage and ground pins are on the opposite ends of this straight line 16 pin connector. Before I even had the Instrument Cluster out...I pushed on the connector and the cluster lights came on, I wiggled it many times and lights went on and off a few times until they stayed on steady. Even though the lights stayed on steady...I stiil took the instrument cluster completely out and cleaned the terminal on the connectors and the printed mylar circuit board with tv tuner cleaner (somthing we used to use on mechanical tv tuners--do not know if Radio Shack still carries it). It essentially cleans off any oxides that may be present and causing a high resistance contact between the connector and the circuit board. I also pulled back the mylar circuit board so that it would have a better chance of making good contact with the connector pins.
The problem seems to be corrected for now. I will try a more drastic enhancement of the connector terminal to mylar circuit board contact geometry if the problem comes back. The current design relies on the spring back action of the mylar circuit board after being folded over at 90 degrees to make contact with the connector terminals when the connectors are inserted into the cluster...a rather un-robust design....especially as the interconnect ages.

Woah man,

Unfortunately after reading your post last night i noticed that my dashboard lighting was failing on the ride home. It's been semi-operational since I bought the car, but tonight the spedometer was pretty much totally out.
When I started the car again, though it seemed to be back to the semi mode

Would you be so kind as to break down this process for a moron, what kind of tools would I need to take off the IP?

thanks