XJ Q's...

Hey,


'88 XJ Cherokee Laredo 4.0L, Auto, 4WD.


Couple of Q's:

In searching I've been reading many posts about Broken Window Regulators. This has me worried.

1. For my year and model Jeep is there a high incidence of Broken Window Regulators or Window Probs?

2. I'm not sure of the correct way to put the Tranny into 4WD or any of the Selections. Here's how I do it and please tell me if it's wrong. I either pull over or slow down then shift to Neutral and then pull the small lever to my selection choice. To disengage I pull over or slow down and put it in Neutral again and push the small lever back to whatever position it needs to be in 2WD.

Is this the correct way to use the 4WD?

I want my Tranny to last a long time and not to break it by using it incorrectly.

Thx, Phil:smile:

I ahve a 96 XJ and when i used 4wd i stop put it nuetral pull the smaller 4wd lever to what i want then get back in drive and go mussing. When i am done i got back to Nuetral and them back to 2wd and then just go straigh.. I dont back up to get out of 4wd. I was told i didnt have to But i may be doing it wrong too. I know that my transmission goes back into 2wd when i do this.

TJ

I ahve a 96 XJ and when i used 4wd i stop put it nuetral pull the smaller 4wd lever to what i want then get back in drive and go mussing. When i am done i got back to Nuetral and them back to 2wd and then just go straigh.. I dont back up to get out of 4wd. I was told i didnt have to But i may be doing it wrong too. I know that my transmission goes back into 2wd when i do this.

TJ

Hey Wkumale,


Sorry if I wasn't clear. I meant to get out of 4WD I just do the reverse steps NOT go reverse as in go backwards.

I've since edited my post to make it more clear.

Thx 4 the reply tho!:smile:


Thx, Phil

If you have Command-Trac, you can go fron 2H to 4H and back at any speed under 55 without stopping. If you go to 4L you slow to a crawl (2mph), put the tranny in neutral, then shift the transfer case to to 4L. Do the same to go back to 2H. My transfer case tends to bind up and not shift out of 4H or 4L if I pull onto a hard surface with it engaged. I just make the required shift as I am leaving the slippery surface and have no problem shifting out of 4 wheel at all. If it binds up I just back up onto whatever slippery surface I was driving on and it will un-bind allowing a shift as I pull onto the hard surface.

The Jeep company web site www.Jeep.com has excellent animated explanations of how the various 4 wheel set ups work. Even though it does not show the Cherokee, the 4 wheel systems remain the same. My 2003 Liberty has the same Comand-Trac system as my 1995 Cherokee.

You can go from 2WD to 4high or vice versa by simply moving the transfer case lever. You dont need to stop or go to N or P, its shift on the fly. You will probably have to let off the gas a little to shift smoothly but thats about it. To change from high to low range and vice versa, you must stop (barely moving 2-3 mph works best though) and place the transmission in N, then move the transfer case lever.

EDIT: Dang, Jeepme beat me to it:(

The shift on the fly info above is right on the nose.

The door regulators can conk out somewhat easily compared to other vehicles, but are easily replaced. They should still be readily available, and the ones with the plastic tape can have the tape only easily replaced. I wouldn't spend a lot of time worrying about yours if they work.

I remember the thing that broke most of them around here was people trying to force open frozen windows in very cold weather.

You can go from 2WD to 4high or vice versa by simply moving the transfer case lever. You dont need to stop or go to N or P, its shift on the fly. You will probably have to let off the gas a little to shift smoothly but thats about it. To change from high to low range and vice versa, you must stop (barely moving 2-3 mph works best though) and place the transmission in N, then move the transfer case lever.

EDIT: Dang, Jeepme beat me to it:(


Hey Ray H,

I don't have Command Trac, can I still shift on the fly?


OlJeepTek - I took apart all of my doors and greased the hell out of the locks/window mechanisms. Then worked the windows up/down until I had blisters; they work great now no binding!

Only prob now and before is the plastic lever on Left Pass Side the inside one that says "lock" on it is hard to press lock and unlock in spite of my greasing it.

Also, the two rear pass doors won't lock or unlock when I hit the switch on the driver's door. The right side is hard to press lock and unlock and the left side is easy to press lock and unlock but both still won't lock and unlock.

Ideas?

Thx, Phil
ps Happy New Year Everyone!:smile:

Hey Ray H,

I don't have Command Trac, can I still shift on the fly?




The above info is the same for Selec Trac also.

If you have Selec Track, you have a full time 4 wheel position that you can drive your Jeep in all the time without shifting in and out of 4 wheel as the traction changes. Selec Track has a differential built in which gives it this capibility. If it snows, just put it in full time 4 wheel and drive. No need to shift back and forth between 2 wheel and 4 wheel as you go on and off of slippery pavement. Just remember, 4 wheel drive does not help you STOP any better on ice or snow.

Hey Ray H,

I don't have Command Trac, can I still shift on the fly?


OlJeepTek - I took apart all of my doors and greased the hell out of the locks/window mechanisms. Then worked the windows up/down until I had blisters; they work great now no binding!

Only prob now and before is the plastic lever on Left Pass Side the inside one that says "lock" on it is hard to press lock and unlock in spite of my greasing it.

Also, the two rear pass doors won't lock or unlock when I hit the switch on the driver's door. The right side is hard to press lock and unlock and the left side is easy to press lock and unlock but both still won't lock and unlock.

Ideas?

Thx, Phil
ps Happy New Year Everyone!:smile:

I am a little confused to what you mean above. Is it the switch that is hard to move, or the lever?

The switch should never be hard tomove, and needs replacing if it is sticking. The rear locks work through the front switch (Master/drivers switch). It provides the ground path for the rear switches. The wires through the doors break too, but you can splice in a new section of wire easily enough. Don't put any solder joints inside the boot flex area or it will break shortly again.

If the lock lever i hard to move manually, you probably have lock actuator biniding internally. They usualy need replaceing but are fairly cheap, and GM actuators are the same. You may have to pull 2 screws to swap brackets.

There are also lock and unlock relays used on most models, but I rarely had to replace any.

I am a little confused to what you mean above. Is it the switch that is hard to move, or the lever?

The switch should never be hard tomove, and needs replacing if it is sticking. The rear locks work through the front switch (Master/drivers switch). It provides the ground path for the rear switches. The wires through the doors break too, but you can splice in a new section of wire easily enough. Don't put any solder joints inside the boot flex area or it will break shortly again.

If the lock lever i hard to move manually, you probably have lock actuator biniding internally. They usualy need replaceing but are fairly cheap, and GM actuators are the same. You may have to pull 2 screws to swap brackets.

There are also lock and unlock relays used on most models, but I rarely had to replace any.
Hey OlJeepTek,

Thx 4 the reply. It's the Lever (Black plastic thing says "Lock" on it). A pass in the back uses it to lock/unlock their door. That's the thing that's hard to move.

So changing this lock actuator will make it easier to move and thus easier to lock/unlock from driver's master switch too? I ordered a several generic ones from Partsexpress.com. Hope they're strong enough to pull/push the lock.

I saw a mod on another site titled: "Fixing Slow or Broken Locks". Due to a voltage drop the rear doors (on older XJ's from age/resistance) won't work or inconsistently. It entails adding relays to get full 12v to the rear locks and at least 40 persons have tried this mod with great success.

Have you heard/tried maybe both? I may try it if changing the actuators don't do the trick.

Virtually everything inside my doors are riveted on. Don't recall seeing any screws or bolts could be wrong tho. I hope I don't have to drill out any rivets. lol

btw - When I opened the Driver's Door to investigate and lube everything there was no plastic moisture damn? Maybe they forgot to put one on at the factory? Would it cause any damage not to have it?

1. Another thing is the two rear pass doors require a good slam (especially the left pass door) for them to catch and shut. I greased up the latches and repeatedly slammed them (my neighbors must've thought I was nuts, lol) to work the grease in but still the same. Is this normal? The fronts close and latch much easier.

2. Looking at the Throttle Body from the front of the Jeep, you see the IAC on the Left (I think, is it the IAC stepper motor?) and TPS on the Right. The left side has TWO vacuum lines coming out of the TB, the lower one goes to the MAP. What is the one above that for and where is it supposed to go? Mine isn't hooked up. It looks as if the previous owner didn't have the correct grommet and put some Black RTV in the hole and then inserted the Vacuum Line that goes nowhere.


Thx, Phil:)

Hey OlJeepTek,

Thx 4 the reply. It's the Lever (Black plastic thing says "Lock" on it). A pass in the back uses it to lock/unlock their door. That's the thing that's hard to move.

So changing this lock actuator will make it easier to move and thus easier to lock/unlock from driver's master switch too? I ordered a several generic ones from Partsexpress.com. Hope they're strong enough to pull/push the lock.

I saw a mod on another site titled: "Fixing Slow or Broken Locks". Due to a voltage drop the rear doors (on older XJ's from age/resistance) won't work or inconsistently. It entails adding relays to get full 12v to the rear locks and at least 40 persons have tried this mod with great success.

Have you heard/tried maybe both? I may try it if changing the actuators don't do the trick.

Virtually everything inside my doors are riveted on. Don't recall seeing any screws or bolts could be wrong tho. I hope I don't have to drill out any rivets. lol

btw - When I opened the Driver's Door to investigate and lube everything there was no plastic moisture damn? Maybe they forgot to put one on at the factory? Would it cause any damage not to have it?

1. Another thing is the two rear pass doors require a good slam (especially the left pass door) for them to catch and shut. I greased up the latches and repeatedly slammed them (my neighbors must've thought I was nuts, lol) to work the grease in but still the same. Is this normal? The fronts close and latch much easier.

2. Looking at the Throttle Body from the front of the Jeep, you see the IAC on the Left (I think, is it the IAC stepper motor?) and TPS on the Right. The left side has TWO vacuum lines coming out of the TB, the lower one goes to the MAP. What is the one above that for and where is it supposed to go? Mine isn't hooked up. It looks as if the previous owner didn't have the correct grommet and put some Black RTV in the hole and then inserted the Vacuum Line that goes nowhere.


Thx, Phil:)i
If the actuator won't let the lever move by hand, you'll need to disconnect the rod to verify that it's bad. It is a common failure. If the actuator moves ok, you have bent/binding linkage. (Not very common unless a hack has been in there, or accident damage).

There are 2 large rivits that need to be drilled our with a 1/4" bit just to get the rivit head off. Push the balance of the rivit into the door to release it. They were aluminum headed rivets and come off easily. The new rivits are too big for a standard rivet gun though. Creative bolt selection at the hardware store should get you by that.

There was a bulletin about voltage drop to the actuators from around '89 or '90, I think. I don't remember the details unfortunately. A quick check to see if it might help would be to out a voltmeter across the actuator (from theh back side while still plugged in) and hit the lock and then unlock switch. If you get within .5v-1v of system voltage it's not having voltage problems.

I usually took my voltmeter and the wiring diagram and located the resistance problems and fixed them rather than screw with adding relays. I found switches with high resistance, poor grounds and occasional splice issues mostly.

The plastic film that covers the door before the door panel goes on(sometimes was a waxed paper affair) isn't for moisure. It was to keep air leaks and dust from infiltrating the passenger compartment. It isn't necessary. The water/moisture seal is at the bottom of the window/top of door skin wiper. Make sure the vent holes are clear at the door bottom and you should be fine.

You shouldn't have to slam the doors. If the latch gets 2 clicks when pushing it manually( using a finger or screwdriver), you need to adjust the striker pin and lube the door hinge pins too, they can bind). A Torx driver should fit it the end to loosen it. (Locking pliers can be used in a pinch). It slides around in an over sized hole to adjust. It goes in/out as well as up/down, so take your time and note the starting position.

You're really pushing my crusty memory on the vac lines. Off-hand, I'd ask if the vac line is the one that should go to the thermo-switch in the air intake ducting, then to the hot air pickup flapper to the stock air filter box. I bet the vac hose diagram on the emission/tuneup sticker is long gone, huh?

i
If the actuator won't let the lever move by hand, you'll need to disconnect the rod to verify that it's bad. It is a common failure. If the actuator moves ok, you have bent/binding linkage. (Not very common unless a hack has been in there, or accident damage).

There are 2 large rivits that need to be drilled our with a 1/4" bit just to get the rivit head off. Push the balance of the rivit into the door to release it. They were aluminum headed rivets and come off easily. The new rivits are too big for a standard rivet gun though. Creative bolt selection at the hardware store should get you by that.

There was a bulletin about voltage drop to the actuators from around '89 or '90, I think. I don't remember the details unfortunately. A quick check to see if it might help would be to out a voltmeter across the actuator (from theh back side while still plugged in) and hit the lock and then unlock switch. If you get within .5v-1v of system voltage it's not having voltage problems.

I usually took my voltmeter and the wiring diagram and located the resistance problems and fixed them rather than screw with adding relays. I found switches with high resistance, poor grounds and occasional splice issues mostly.

The plastic film that covers the door before the door panel goes on(sometimes was a waxed paper affair) isn't for moisure. It was to keep air leaks and dust from infiltrating the passenger compartment. It isn't necessary. The water/moisture seal is at the bottom of the window/top of door skin wiper. Make sure the vent holes are clear at the door bottom and you should be fine.

You shouldn't have to slam the doors. If the latch gets 2 clicks when pushing it manually( using a finger or screwdriver), you need to adjust the striker pin and lube the door hinge pins too, they can bind). A Torx driver should fit it the end to loosen it. (Locking pliers can be used in a pinch). It slides around in an over sized hole to adjust. It goes in/out as well as up/down, so take your time and note the starting position.

You're really pushing my crusty memory on the vac lines. Off-hand, I'd ask if the vac line is the one that should go to the thermo-switch in the air intake ducting, then to the hot air pickup flapper to the stock air filter box. I bet the vac hose diagram on the emission/tuneup sticker is long gone, huh?

Hey OlJeepTek,

I think that may be the one (vac lines). When I changed the engine I had the mech add a K&N Cone Filter & Tube from Rusty's 4x4. So all of that misc stuff is long gone. New paint job took care of the vac hose diagram (they removed it and painted over it, lol). I heard you can fail a visual inspection with that stuff removed but the guy that I go to never even looks under the hood (just doesn't provide a big fan in front of the vehicle) nor cares! lol

1. So if I plugged it up at the Throttle Body it won't hurt anything, right?

2. Also, there's a spark plug looking thing with wires on the back of the manifold. O2 Sensor maybe? What does this do? Air Temp Sensor maybe?

3. Can I get by with the Generic Door Lock Actuators rather than the OEM? I already ordered them from Partsexpress.com

Thx, Phil
ps Has anyone ever told you that YOU ARE AMAZING?:smile:

1. So if I plugged it up at the Throttle Body it won't hurt anything, right?

If the vacuum doesn't leak, it doesnt do anything after warmup. It might hesitate slightly if it gets very cold, but them so do I....

2. Also, there's a spark plug looking thing with wires on the back of the manifold. O2 Sensor maybe? What does this do? Air Temp Sensor maybe?

Heated O2 sensor should be in the exhaust manifold with 3 wires, black, red and green, I think. Air temp sensor should look similar to the ecm coolant sensor and go into the intake. Has 2 wires.

3. Can I get by with the Generic Door Lock Actuators rather than the OEM? I already ordered them from Partsexpress.com

You should be fine with these. You'll probably get Delco built parts anyway.

Thx, Phil
ps Has anyone ever told you that YOU ARE AMAZING?

Only the girls, man, only the girls ;)