Paint Job Materials Cost?

For the past few months ive been thinkin of repainting my car. The paint job was decent until i put on lambo doors an had to get the doors repainted. the color didnt match an the second i got it from the shop i opened the door an competely scraped the paint off my sideskirt. also a week later my door panels i had molded on began to crack an paint is flaking off.. also people that dont know how to close my door right.. well it has bent some of the metal up in my door jambs. an now that theres like 3 layers of paint on half off my car.. a rock can just hit it an knock it to the gel coat on the fiberglass. an all where ive had my body kit molded on the paint is cracking an chipping off. i had taken my spoiler off an it peeled the clear coat off where the brackets stuck to it, an i had capped off the holes. all this makes me mad cuz i have over 20 grand in this car an the body work is becoming to look like shit. now its winter time an i need my car show ready for car shows during the spring.

so ive been thinking of doing all the body work myself an renting a booth an paint it myself. im not gonna rush it.. once i start sanding it down ill get it perfect so there are no dents what so ever in it. an unmold everything, u know, do it right so it will last forever. im wondering how much all the paint an sandpaper, body filler, stuff like that will cost. i got this thick book on painting cars tonight, an i would go over all the stuff to do before touching it. but can some1 give me an average of what this would cost? its a dodge stealth. im gonna go back with white but im gonna paint everything, like door jambs, under hood, around the rear hatch inside. it will be white, but i dont want just any white.. is there such thing as a white chameleon? i know that sounds dumb, but is there a way to paint it so thats its a nice bright white an has a silverish tint to it while looking at the curves of it? also keeping it to where i can repaint areas an wont be a hard color to match..

The only way I can think of to give somewhat the effect you are looking for would be to give it a white basecoat, put some coats of some kind of silver pearl mixed with clear over that, then about 3 coats of straight clear. No if you did that, it won't be easy to repair and match. I also would recommend sticking with a solid color for your first paint job, not a tri stage like I explained for the effect. Cost of materials is going to depend on what type of paint you use, so you would need to go to your local paint supplier and price them. A solid single stage (no clear on top) enamel is going to be a lot cheaper then if you applyed a tri stage with pearl or a basecoat clearcoat job. There are also lower lines and upper lines of paint. If you mold fiberglass to metal, it will crack, metal and fiberglass have different expansion rates. I would be bitching at the bodyshop that painted your car if it didn't match and make them re do it. Rocks are going to chip paint if they hit it hard enough, but sounds like the shop may have used a cheap paint or did some pour prep work if its chipping really easy.

GM has a white pearl coat its a tri coat system that gm puts on esclades. its somewhat hard to spray if youve never done it before. if you wanted to you could have the person mixing it put more pearl in it to make it really pop. as far as cost goes, it could get pretty costly. like 100 plus for clear and probally 300 plus for paint. if your paint is flaking off take it back to the body shop and see if they have any warrinty on there work.

it wont be cheap, especially all the odd's and end's and all that crap... every pack of sandpaper, inline moisture filters, mixing cups, primer, topcoat(s). Be prepared to invest over a grand in materials and many labor hours lol... oh yeah, and to make your underlying primer perfectly flat, you know the technique right? you spray a contrasting color on the primer, but only a light mist coat, i.e. make it look like you accidentally oversprayed on it from 10 feet away... then when you sand it, all the spots that still have the contrasting guide coat stand out like a sore thumb (low spots) and its really easy to fill em up with some glazing putty