93 JGC possible anti-theft engine lock and can't start...
eesycheese
12-27-2005, 07:28 PM
My 93 Jeep was running perfect, but I think I locked myself in my car before starting the engine, which I noticed turned the "Security" light on the dash on. It blinked for a second and then I tried to unlock the door, since I was inside, and tried starting the engine. Then the engine would not start at all. The battery is fine, and I tried to relock the security system when I was out of the vehicle, and used the key to unlock the door... I got back in and tried to start it, thinking that the problem was fixed, but nothing. I tried everything I've read and heard of including; disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it after a while so the system would reset, unlocking the liftgate so it would reset (all with the key), and unlocking each door hoping it would reset. Again, nothing. It feels like the ignition doesn't move at all when I insert my key. I mean, it moves to the "on" possition where the car would normally start up, but it doesn't grab anything and doesn't do anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated since the dealerships, car alarm companies and everyone else where I live doesn't know ANYTHING. Maybe I just need to find a switch under the dash? Please let me know if you have any ideas.
(keep in mind I have no key FOB, just the key itself)
Thanks,
Daniel
(keep in mind I have no key FOB, just the key itself)
Thanks,
Daniel
oljeeptek
12-28-2005, 03:31 AM
The key in either door should disarm the factory system. Make sure you are using a factory original key, not a replacement. The wrong blank will not be read correctly by the vats module. Is the lights and horn being triggered?
If you have an aftermarket system, your out of luck.
If you have an aftermarket system, your out of luck.
eesycheese
12-28-2005, 03:38 AM
Thanks for the response...
It is the original key and the system never went off, but the engine was locked anyway. The alarm itself never went off, but it was activated when I was in the vehicle and then I unlocked it from the inside instead of using the key (this didn't trigger the alarm but shut off the car from turning over).
Also, it is the factory system.
It is the original key and the system never went off, but the engine was locked anyway. The alarm itself never went off, but it was activated when I was in the vehicle and then I unlocked it from the inside instead of using the key (this didn't trigger the alarm but shut off the car from turning over).
Also, it is the factory system.
oljeeptek
12-28-2005, 03:54 AM
Thanks for the response...
It is the original key and the system never went off, but the engine was locked anyway. The alarm itself never went off, but it was activated when I was in the vehicle and then I unlocked it from the inside instead of using the key (this didn't trigger the alarm but shut off the car from turning over).
Also, it is the factory system.
You should be able to check it easily enough. Put the drivers window down, lock the door with the switch and close it. If it arms correctly, when you reach through the open window and open the door manually, the horns will go and the lights will flash. Close the door and unlock it with the key. If the lights and horn reset, but it still won't start, you probably have a broken key cylinder wire inside the steering column and the VATS module can't see the key signal. You could have a defective key. Do you have a second key with the pellet?
It is the original key and the system never went off, but the engine was locked anyway. The alarm itself never went off, but it was activated when I was in the vehicle and then I unlocked it from the inside instead of using the key (this didn't trigger the alarm but shut off the car from turning over).
Also, it is the factory system.
You should be able to check it easily enough. Put the drivers window down, lock the door with the switch and close it. If it arms correctly, when you reach through the open window and open the door manually, the horns will go and the lights will flash. Close the door and unlock it with the key. If the lights and horn reset, but it still won't start, you probably have a broken key cylinder wire inside the steering column and the VATS module can't see the key signal. You could have a defective key. Do you have a second key with the pellet?
oljeeptek
12-28-2005, 03:59 AM
You should be able to check it easily enough. Put the drivers window down, lock the door with the switch and close it. If it arms correctly, when you reach through the open window and open the door manually, the horns will go and the lights will flash. Close the door and unlock it with the key. If the lights and horn reset, but it still won't start, you probably have a broken key cylinder wire inside the steering column and the VATS module can't see the key signal. You could have a defective key. Do you have a second key with the pellet?
I just reread your post above. If the key doesn't feel like its moving anything, you need to check the column parts. The key cylinder turns a gear that pushes a long rod to actuate the switch that is mounted at the bottom of the column. There are 2 bolts that hold it to the column with slotted holes. Does it at least power up the radio in the "on" position?
If the alarm sets off the horns as above, I'd look at the column parts first.
I just reread your post above. If the key doesn't feel like its moving anything, you need to check the column parts. The key cylinder turns a gear that pushes a long rod to actuate the switch that is mounted at the bottom of the column. There are 2 bolts that hold it to the column with slotted holes. Does it at least power up the radio in the "on" position?
If the alarm sets off the horns as above, I'd look at the column parts first.
eesycheese
12-28-2005, 04:36 AM
Yes, the horn, lights and alarm go off. Your last post was very accurate as to my problem. Can I check the column parts myself or would I need service help taking apart the column? I will try tomorrow myself. Yes, the radio turns on in the "on" position, so it most definately sounds like that is the problem with the ignition. Feel free to add anything other comments or questions if I haven't been clear. Thank you for your help. I will post my findings tomorrow.
oljeeptek
12-28-2005, 05:17 PM
It sounds like the "on" position is where it feels like it normally is. I'd say the actual ignition switch and actuator parts are probably ok. You likely have a key cylinder problem. There separate parts. You need to pull the steering wheel and air bag parts to get to it on most vehicles. I don't have a service manual handy, but I think its a gm style column. You'll need to be careful around the airbag stuff and follow the service manual so as not to damage the clockspring assy. It sounds to me like the cyl assy might need replacing. You will also need a few specialized tools.
oljeeptek
12-30-2005, 12:09 AM
Hey,
Before you tear into the column, please look at your ign key. If there is a small black pellet with a terminal on each side, the above column tests will apply.
If theres not, and it's a key you know works with the car, you have a passive system. The difference is that the key circuit won't apply.
The start problem can still be related. The VTA module still has to tell the PCM that it's ok to start before the injectors will stay operational after startup. The only problem it that you'll need a scanner to access the readouts.
Sorry for any confusion. (Insomnia clouds the mind, yiu know)
Before you tear into the column, please look at your ign key. If there is a small black pellet with a terminal on each side, the above column tests will apply.
If theres not, and it's a key you know works with the car, you have a passive system. The difference is that the key circuit won't apply.
The start problem can still be related. The VTA module still has to tell the PCM that it's ok to start before the injectors will stay operational after startup. The only problem it that you'll need a scanner to access the readouts.
Sorry for any confusion. (Insomnia clouds the mind, yiu know)
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025