97 Blazer will not start!
TheCure973
12-27-2005, 12:53 AM
Turns over, no blown fuses in dashboard, great battery, full tank of gas.....
However, there are no gauges on the dashboard that are working. The turn signals won't work (hazards do). Brake lights are fine. Won't shift out of park, do hear the click of the safety working.
Thankx in advance for any help.
However, there are no gauges on the dashboard that are working. The turn signals won't work (hazards do). Brake lights are fine. Won't shift out of park, do hear the click of the safety working.
Thankx in advance for any help.
drdd
12-27-2005, 12:55 AM
have you ever changed/replaced your ignition switch?
it's not a question of "if" on a '97 ... it's a matter of "when" ...
Turns over, no blown fuses in dashboard, great battery, full tank of gas.....
However, there are no gauges on the dashboard that are working. The turn signals won't work (hazards do). Brake lights are fine. Won't shift out of park, do hear the click of the safety working.
Thankx in advance for any help.
it's not a question of "if" on a '97 ... it's a matter of "when" ...
Turns over, no blown fuses in dashboard, great battery, full tank of gas.....
However, there are no gauges on the dashboard that are working. The turn signals won't work (hazards do). Brake lights are fine. Won't shift out of park, do hear the click of the safety working.
Thankx in advance for any help.
TheCure973
12-27-2005, 01:07 AM
>"have you ever changed/replaced your ignition switch?
>
>it's not a question of "if" on a '97 ... it's a matter of "when" ..."
No I haven't, but that was also a thought that I had... Will look into it tomorrow. Is there any way to test it other than buying a new one and putting it in?
>
>it's not a question of "if" on a '97 ... it's a matter of "when" ..."
No I haven't, but that was also a thought that I had... Will look into it tomorrow. Is there any way to test it other than buying a new one and putting it in?
drdd
12-27-2005, 01:14 AM
I'd recommend a new ign switch ..
if it wasn't the problem, it would've needed done soon anyhow ...
I'd start there ...
>"have you ever changed/replaced your ignition switch?
>
>it's not a question of "if" on a '97 ... it's a matter of "when" ..."
No I haven't, but that was also a thought that I had... Will look into it tomorrow. Is there any way to test it other than buying a new one and putting it in?
if it wasn't the problem, it would've needed done soon anyhow ...
I'd start there ...
>"have you ever changed/replaced your ignition switch?
>
>it's not a question of "if" on a '97 ... it's a matter of "when" ..."
No I haven't, but that was also a thought that I had... Will look into it tomorrow. Is there any way to test it other than buying a new one and putting it in?
mike2004tct
12-27-2005, 10:11 AM
>"have you ever changed/replaced your ignition switch?
>
>it's not a question of "if" on a '97 ... it's a matter of "when" ..."
No I haven't, but that was also a thought that I had... Will look into it tomorrow. Is there any way to test it other than buying a new one and putting it in?
Check for voltage at the top of fuse #24 with key off (tranny fuse). If no voltage , It's most likely the switch.
The only other choice is the EEM unit. (I've had both take a crap on my '97) Switch is about $100.00, EEM is about $300.00. I'd start with the switch if yours has never been replaced.
Search this forum for "Ignition switch replacement", you'll find instructions on how to replace it.
>
>it's not a question of "if" on a '97 ... it's a matter of "when" ..."
No I haven't, but that was also a thought that I had... Will look into it tomorrow. Is there any way to test it other than buying a new one and putting it in?
Check for voltage at the top of fuse #24 with key off (tranny fuse). If no voltage , It's most likely the switch.
The only other choice is the EEM unit. (I've had both take a crap on my '97) Switch is about $100.00, EEM is about $300.00. I'd start with the switch if yours has never been replaced.
Search this forum for "Ignition switch replacement", you'll find instructions on how to replace it.
manwiththeplan88
12-27-2005, 06:02 PM
Same exact thing happened to mine, SAME EXACT! It would turn over, wouldn't come out of park, and everything else worked fine. It turned out to be the ignition switch when I took it to the mechanic.
TheCure973
01-01-2006, 11:17 PM
Thankx for all your help.
I replaced the ignition switch and it started right up on the first try. The only problem I had was with the two E3 screws holding it in. I read in another thread how someone used a 3/32 socket to get these out. I tried 8 parts stores, Sears and two hardware stores and couldn't find anything that small. Ended up using a hacksaw blade, slitting the screw head and using a flat head screwdriver to get it out. All in all, pretty painless except those two screws!
I replaced the ignition switch and it started right up on the first try. The only problem I had was with the two E3 screws holding it in. I read in another thread how someone used a 3/32 socket to get these out. I tried 8 parts stores, Sears and two hardware stores and couldn't find anything that small. Ended up using a hacksaw blade, slitting the screw head and using a flat head screwdriver to get it out. All in all, pretty painless except those two screws!
LTBlazer97
01-01-2006, 11:54 PM
Thankx for all your help.
I replaced the ignition switch and it started right up on the first try. The only problem I had was with the two E3 screws holding it in. I read in another thread how someone used a 3/32 socket to get these out. I tried 8 parts stores, Sears and two hardware stores and couldn't find anything that small. Ended up using a hacksaw blade, slitting the screw head and using a flat head screwdriver to get it out. All in all, pretty painless except those two screws!
Dude, same problem here as well, id be lying if i said i tried less than 10 places, that E4 torx socket is one of the most elusive tools ever.....had to flag down the snap-on guy to get one, $14 dollars but worth it considering the alternative: walking to work. Never thought of splitting the bolt like that, it wasnt in tight at all and it would have sped up my day, but knowing my luck i would have damaged something in the column.
I replaced the ignition switch and it started right up on the first try. The only problem I had was with the two E3 screws holding it in. I read in another thread how someone used a 3/32 socket to get these out. I tried 8 parts stores, Sears and two hardware stores and couldn't find anything that small. Ended up using a hacksaw blade, slitting the screw head and using a flat head screwdriver to get it out. All in all, pretty painless except those two screws!
Dude, same problem here as well, id be lying if i said i tried less than 10 places, that E4 torx socket is one of the most elusive tools ever.....had to flag down the snap-on guy to get one, $14 dollars but worth it considering the alternative: walking to work. Never thought of splitting the bolt like that, it wasnt in tight at all and it would have sped up my day, but knowing my luck i would have damaged something in the column.
rlith
01-02-2006, 06:07 AM
The best place to find those bits is Compusa or similar place. Most of the larger PC tool kits come with 20 different sizes of those bits (as well as other security bits) Usual cost is around 30 bux.
mike2004tct
01-02-2006, 09:21 AM
The best place to find those bits is Compusa or similar place. Most of the larger PC tool kits come with 20 different sizes of those bits (as well as other security bits) Usual cost is around 30 bux.
Good suggestion.
I got mine at Napa, $6.00 (Lisle is the manufacturer), it's labeled as a Cadillac/GM ignition module tool for mid 80's distributor replacement/ignition module removal.
Good suggestion.
I got mine at Napa, $6.00 (Lisle is the manufacturer), it's labeled as a Cadillac/GM ignition module tool for mid 80's distributor replacement/ignition module removal.
LTBlazer97
01-02-2006, 06:39 PM
The best place to find those bits is Compusa or similar place. Most of the larger PC tool kits come with 20 different sizes of those bits (as well as other security bits) Usual cost is around 30 bux.
Thats pretty funny considering i brushed that off saying, nah they cant have it there, looks like i was wrong.
Thats pretty funny considering i brushed that off saying, nah they cant have it there, looks like i was wrong.
LTBlazer97
01-02-2006, 09:06 PM
Good suggestion.
I got mine at Napa, $6.00 (Lisle is the manufacturer), it's labeled as a Cadillac/GM ignition module tool for mid 80's distributor replacement/ignition module removal.
3 napas near me all said they didnt have at the time, and that it was re-ordered. Maybee 3 other unlucky blazer owners got to it before me hehe.
I got mine at Napa, $6.00 (Lisle is the manufacturer), it's labeled as a Cadillac/GM ignition module tool for mid 80's distributor replacement/ignition module removal.
3 napas near me all said they didnt have at the time, and that it was re-ordered. Maybee 3 other unlucky blazer owners got to it before me hehe.
mike2004tct
01-03-2006, 07:44 AM
3 napas near me all said they didnt have at the time, and that it was re-ordered. Maybee 3 other unlucky blazer owners got to it before me hehe.
Most likely the case,but probably only 1 unlucky Blazer owner got the tool. My local Napa only carries 1 item each of specialty tools, so I got the only socket available. This isn't the first time it happened either. Usually takes 3 days to get special orders.
Most likely the case,but probably only 1 unlucky Blazer owner got the tool. My local Napa only carries 1 item each of specialty tools, so I got the only socket available. This isn't the first time it happened either. Usually takes 3 days to get special orders.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025
