mount prices

Okay I posted about a rear clunking noise in my car. This may sound weird but when i have my window down is sounds like it's coming from the front. So i'm guessing either motor mount(s) or transmission mount(s). Does anyone agree with me? And does anyone know how much either will cost? By the way does anyone know how much rotor work will cost? I think it needs new rotors because when using the brakes at about 45 the pedal kinda vibrates and the car does a little too.

I am not sure about the cost to replace the motor mount or tranny mount but it should cost about $12 to $15 per rotor to have them turned. If they have been turned before you will probably have to replace them. With the cost of rotors these days you may be ahead to replace them regardless if you have high mileage on this vehicle. If you decide to purchase new rotors don't buy the cheap ones. Stay with name brand like Raybestos or go with OEM as they are designed to cool better and will hold up much better than the cheap ones. You can change these out yourself in about an hour if you don't change pads. If I were you I would put a good quality set of pads on when I put the new rotors on since the pads you have are probably worn too. If you decide to have the rotors turned and reinstall them you may want new pads so that they wear with the rotors.

One word of caution, just make sure you bleed the brakes don't push the old fluid back into the reservoir if you have ABS. It could damage the system.

Yeah i was thinking of putting performance rotors in anyways. Maybe this is the go ahead. I guess some better brakes too. I think the umm green stuff brakes with performance rotors should be good right? They should last a little longer too i would think. I figure might as well go all out since needing to stop is critical. And the car has about 114k on it and i'm not sure if there has been any rotor work on the car. I actually have no idea of what's been done to it and it's really kicking me now but i had no way of knowing.

Oh and before i forget, on my engine (quad4) on the intake manifold, the oil seperator i believe it's called? It says it someone in the engine compartment. Anyways it has 3 hoses coming off it. Not sure where two of them go, but the hoses are on the left, down, and right side of the seperator when looking directly down on it. The one on the downside goes to the air intake. On the right there is a hose leading i don't know what, a part of the intake manifold i believe. But it looks like a replaced hose because it looks pinched. Rather then a nice gentle curve the hose is at a right angle and doesn't look like much can get through it. Should i just get a longer hose so that it can breathe better and maybe it will perform slightly better? Or will that mini hose have to come from a dealer?

Hey Krono353. I would change the rotors and brake pads all at once, you will get better performance out of them. But for under $100 should set you up with great stopping power.

ON the seperator, the kink'd hose can be purchased at your local auto store. It will come pre-bent(from the factory) to prevent the kink. They are part of your emissions, so its wise to keep them working proper, esspecially if you hav to hav your car inspected for emissions testing.

$100, does that cover like the slotted performance rotors i was talking about with the stronger brake pads too? Or is that like stock? And I'm not handy with stuff like that. I've never even tried changed brake pads although i have seen it done. How much do you think all that would be including labor and the higher performance stuff? I think i need to get that all done tomorrow too. The brake pedal is starting vibrate even in lower speeds now. At about 35 it starts to vibrate when trying to stop.

And that small hose might explain why the car has a strange smell when it first starts. Not like sulfur or rich running just a weird kinda smell. I think it might do it slightly when warmed up but not much.

Sorry I did mean $200, that would be for parts only. For instance, done a little search on the Zone and for a good set of semi metalic/carbon pads will run you $45-60 , cheap-o pads from $10-30. You dont really need CERAMIC pads, unless you race at the track. lol.
Rotors start at $18, I wouldnt get those though, they are cheap, and will warp lik the ones you hav now. And some around $30.
They do hav BAER_DECELA rotors(drill/sloted) they are $153 for the pair. They are kick ass! But I'm sure you dont want to spend that much. Heres a link where I found this stuff.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performSearch&Parameters=Auto+Store%7C%7EREGULAR+PARTS+LOOK+UP%7 C%7EBRAKE+PADS+-+FRONT

And If you hav never changed brakes you might want a proff to do it. Its not a difficult job, but if you screw it up someone could get hurt, and or mess up your new expensive brakes.
I'm sure you could change that hose out though. And if I didnt tell you before, the woble/shake is your rotors are warped. Usually from excessive braking, or just over heating them.

I replaced that hose. Turns out it didn't matter that it was kinked. It has a sensor in it which led to where there is a plug in then to another sensor in hose to the intake manifold. Now it gets interesting. When i finally managed to pull the hose off the oil seperator and found out it's a sensor there was that fantastic white crap ALL over it and slightly coming out of the seperator. So i cleaned that stuff out and managed to get everything back together. I had an oil change last week and the oil pressure is built back up again. I'd say around 39 psi idling when fully warmed up, as opposed to the about 19 psi when warmed up. But I have no idea what that crap is. Maybe it's just too much condensation. But I don't know what else to do about this stuff, i don't want my engine frying because of it. It still runs great though and I have just as much coolant as before. I don't know if i should just stop driving it for the winter and maybe get it all cleaned up for spring or what.

But as far as my braking goes does the drilled and slotted rotors have less change of warping? I think I'd go with those if they are better in that way. And yeah I don't race my car really so semi-metallic ones would be good to use right?

the white stuff is moisture, hopefully from condinsation. Check you oil dip stick and see if that stuff is on there or in the oil cap. The seperator does basicly the same thing as a pcv valve on the V6. ventilation, but controled.
As long as the white stuff isnt in the oil its self it should be fine to driv.

On the brakes, those drill&sloted are more performance than for street use, I hav seen them get tiny fracture crack from the holes that are drilled into the rotors. JTLYK.
Their are really good rotors around. Advanced and Car quest, Napa, several places. You want anything heavy duty or warp 'resistant'(means they are heat treated[they still will warp])
I think my GA has the DURALAST-GOLD OUTER SEMI-METALLIC pads(42.99) and the rotors are from Advance Auto, not sure... but they dont carry them any more. the Zones Duralast(5580) arent too bad $26.99.
So for around $70 that route. I would recomend the brake kit which comes with new clips and ruber boots for the new bolts. around $10($5-6 each,1 kit per side).

If you take it somewhere they'll charge between $175-300 for brakes and rotors, depending where you liv. Pricing is funny when it comes to location.
If you do it get a manual and read it first, before you try it. THings need to be done correctly, to say the least. One other thing use brake cleaner and DONT breathe the brake dust!! may not kill u today but down the road it may shorten ur life span. remember safty first!

Yeah I called a shop and they said about 320 for parts and labor. But alas i have decided to get another grand am. This one is costing me at least 400 a month so far just to manage it. The rotors are getting worse as i drive. I found a nice 98 GT with the 2.4 twin cam. 55k on it. What do you think? I'm still keeping my 94 GT and will fix it up when and if i get some time or maybe try and sell it. But what do you think? I want some input from everyone if possible.

By the way, the 98 GT is an automatic and on the shifter is a little button and when you push it a guage light comes on and ets or etc off, what is that and what does that means? Is it a sport overdrive kinda thing?

98's are nice rides. and 55k is nice for it age. But me personaly, i stay away from 4cyl. I'd kill it in a week. What they asking for the 98?

I'll look at kelly blue book..... their Suggested Retail price is $5920, that would be what the dealer might be asking, but negotiable.
Thats krazzzy though, my 99' is worth $6,645 by them as dealer asking price and $3,300 on a trade in. They Shit! they suk! wont be trading mine in for that!

About the shifter, its the traction control button. You'll want that on unless your lik, get stuck in snow, or are burning up your tires.

The dealer was asking 5400, but are selling it to me for 5000. I have a mechanic i can take it to after getting a loan for the car. He'll go through top to bottom front to back. Now as far as my 94 goes. I'm going to let it sit and I'm going to get a repair manual for it and fix it up myself. Put good rotors and brake pads, maybe figure out why the blinkers act kind of weird, hell and if got the money, put a new sunroof in. The one i have leaks and the gasket isn't sold seperatly. But it would be a good learning experience and the car isn't a total disaster so it will be more bearable to work with. And with the 4 cylinder engine in the 98, i'm okay with that. I try not to speed to much or push my car very hard anyways. I'm not worried about killing it. But would the 98 be good? Pontiacs seem to have good and bad years.

Just watch out for problems with that stupid security system. Seems to be a common issue with most of the newer Grand Am's.

Hey Krono353 sounds lik maybe a fair asking price but try to find all those little things wrong, and get them to come down. Unless they are giving you some sort of warnty, but I doubt they would.

The Good and Bad... and the ugly. lol! I think every year has problems, with one thing or the other. the trick is find the ones with the least amount of trouble. But if your having someone else look at it, they should be able to find those little things.

Like GTP Dad said, security systems trouble would be the worst, in my opinion. So get it checked out and let us know how it goes. Good Luck Krono353 .