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Starter keeps turning, key removed


jonfasch
12-20-2005, 09:07 PM
The s10 blazer (2.8l) starts just fine if the battery is fully charged. But twice now, once after sitting outside all day at my wife's work in freezing temperatures, and once while in our garage - when turning the key, it acted like it would start, but then the battery wore down. Then after removing the key, you could here the starter turning over until the battery was completely dead.

The second time was with a different battery that was initially charged the day before.

It starts fine with a fully charged battery.

NOTE: the second time I started/stopped the truck 4-5 times just testing it to make sure it was okay to drive. The battery seemed weaker and weaker until finally it did not start. With the starter turning again with the key removed.

What is causing the starter to turn after the key is removed.

Thanks,
Jon Faschingbauer

OverBoardProject
12-21-2005, 01:38 AM
Hi Jon, Welcome to AF

It can be 1 of 3 things.

Most likely the ignition switch.
There's a small chance of a bare wire touching another and leaving the starter turning.
And it could be in the starter/solinoid it's self. They are built together as a 1 piece unit.

If it was mine I'd replace the ignition switch first, they are cheap.
Then if the problem is still there get the starter tested.

If it's a 4wd and the starter needs replacing contact me. That's what I have, so I know the secret to easily replace the starter. the books say that you have to pull the motor which is false.

jonfasch
12-21-2005, 09:37 AM
Thanks for the info.

I have it in for an oil change right now. And they will be testing the starter at the same time. The mechanic thought it may be the solenoid.

It is a 4 wheel drive. But my manual says to just remove a couple things under the engine - crossbars and such. I'll let you know once I hear back from the shop what's wrong and whether I change it myself or not.

BLAZERBOY69
12-21-2005, 10:54 AM
Hi Jon, Welcome to AF

It can be 1 of 3 things.

Most likely the ignition switch.
There's a small chance of a bare wire touching another and leaving the starter turning.
And it could be in the starter/solinoid it's self. They are built together as a 1 piece unit.

If it was mine I'd replace the ignition switch first, they are cheap.
Then if the problem is still there get the starter tested.

If it's a 4wd and the starter needs replacing contact me. That's what I have, so I know the secret to easily replace the starter. the books say that you have to pull the motor which is false.

I ALSO FOUND THAT BY PULLING THE PASS FRONT TIRE, YOU CAN HAVE A CLEAR SHOT AT THE STARTER (HAD TO REPLACE 3 ON MINE) AND IN THE SHOP WHERE I PLAY, MOST S10'S THAT I WORK ON THE STARTER IS ALWAYS A BEAR TO GET OUT UNTIL SOMEONE REMINDS ME (USUALLY MY TUTOR) TO PULL THE WHEEL

OverBoardProject
12-21-2005, 11:00 AM
I gusee that the book you looked at is right Jon.

You might be right with your Blazer BLAZERBOY, but I just can't see that with the 2.8L or I would have removed the tire.
It was the actual suspension that stops it from falling right out.

jonfasch
12-21-2005, 11:02 AM
Ahh, excellent idea on pulling the tire - never even thought of that last night when crawling under the truck and looking in the hood, and then trying to figure how I was going to get at it to disconnect the wires.

OverBoardProject
12-21-2005, 11:05 AM
I didn't find getting to the wires too hard with air conditioning in the way. I just reached down, and those that I couldn't were gotten as I was removing the starter.

I'm only 5'8" with average sized arms., so I can't see you having problems there.

BLAZERBOY69
12-21-2005, 12:09 PM
I gusee that the book you looked at is right Jon.

You might be right with your Blazer BLAZERBOY, but I just can't see that with the 2.8L or I would have removed the tire.
It was the actual suspension that stops it from falling right out.
I HAVE A 2.8L YOU TAKE THE TIR OUT AND YOU CAN GET THE WIRES UN DONE. THAT TO ME IS THE HARDEST PART. THEN, SINCE I GOT THE TRUCK JACKED UP, I REACH FROM UNDER AND UN DO THE TWO BOLTS THAT HOLD IT. AFTER THAT TIP THE FRONT OF THE STARTER UP AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE, PUSH IT A LITTLE TOWARDS THE GRILL SO THAT THE REAR CLEARS THE LOWER BELL HOUSING, THEN IT SHOULD JUST DROP DOWN THROUGH THE HOLE TO THE GROUND. TRY NOT TO BE UNDER THE TRUCK WHEN IT DROPS, THAT LEAVES A NICE SIZED BRUISE.
LOL
OH YEAH, YOU MAY HAVE TO PUSH IT DOWN A LITTLE TO GET IT TO DROP. THE SOLENOID ALWAYS SEEMS TO WANT TO STAY UP THERE FOR SOME REASON.

jonfasch
12-21-2005, 01:02 PM
Just talked to the shop and the starter/solenoid has tested bad, but they want $96 for the part and $70.00 to install it plus some additional for shop supplies.

I told them I would pick it up. Much cheaper to do it myself.

Anybody know if you have to take off the brushplate bolted a little below and aft of the starter to get it out? My book says you do, but no-one's mentioned it yet.

herkyhawki
12-22-2005, 09:38 AM
If that doesn't fix it, Check for an abandoned remote starter system that may be malfunctioning. If you bought it used and got no remote controllers, you may not know it's there until it acts up.

jonfasch
12-22-2005, 10:04 AM
Taking it back to the shop today. It was a pain, but I finally got the wires disconnected last night after taking the tire off (great idea - thanks), but I can't get the skid plate/cross member off in order to get the starter out. So I put it back together and will have to take it in to get the starter swapped out.

jonfasch
12-26-2005, 02:29 PM
Thanks for the help everyone. I had to take it in to get the starter/solenoid swapped out. And now it works great. Bummer I couldn't get it out myself though.

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