99 Sportage EX/Sudden stalling

Hello everyone, I'm a new member here and my name is Jonathan.

My problem is this, this past Friday I was driving my sportage around town a bit and had just put gas in to do a few errands; I had a quarter of a tank when this happened also.

The car starts acting as if it's not getting fuel, it surges back and the more you step on the gas the more the lights dim and the slower the car gets; almost like a jake brake on a semi. My check engine light is still on, I've checked the fuel pump, it's fine and the lines are fine and it's getting vaccum and feeding fuel. Replaced the fuel filter, checked the coil packs and wires/plugs - good condition.

I've checked to make sure it got spark, sparked fine. I have no idea what to think from here, it has to be a sensor because I've checked the timing belt and it and the cam gears looks brand new and it's plenty plenty tight enough to keep it from slipping and the teeth are in the gears perfectly.

So, my question to the guru's here is... What the... Could it be the EGI/FUEL Relay? O2 Sensor? MAF Sensor? Crank/Throttle Pos. Sensor? I can't get the car to an auto shop or auto zone to get a code scan done because it won't crank and I can't afford a tow service and know no one with a truck to pull it. And replacing sensors left and right just because isn't in my budget right now; seeing as the dealership wants $25 a relay for the EGI/FUEL.

Please help me anyway you can, I'm running out of options and days off from work... Thankyou! -Jonathan-

One more question: will it act like that when cold, right from the start (or only when warmed up)?...I kind of understand it will not even fire up but I want you to confirm.

One more question: will it act like that when cold, right from the start (or only when warmed up)?...I kind of understand it will not even fire up but I want you to confirm.


Actually it's always acted a little sluggish starting, like it takes a revolution or two more than it should to crank, like a "hard" start but not quite. But that's because of the mileage I think and the previous owners thinking it's a ferrari; I should know it belonged to three of my family members. It has 103,000 Mi.

I checked the alternator voltage, perfect, battery is great, starter is in like new condition... It just won't completely turn over. Sometimes it acts like it wants to but it just won't. I think the timing belt might be off a bit and it's trying to compress fire into an open chamber and the crankshaft won't turn without the compression... But is that likely to be the problem seeing as it just stalled in the middle of no where doing 45?

I haven't checked the exact position of the cam gears but I will when I get it in my buddies garage; but the belt seems tight enough that it wouldn't slip... Not sure who replaced it but it looks like it was done between 60-80K because of how new the threads look.

I hoped that answered your question, thanks! -Jonathan-

Several have changed the crankshaft position sensor (http://geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/cam_crank_sensors.jpg) following symptoms much alike you describe and reported it solved the problem. Of course, a complete confidence in the positioning of timing belt is a prerequisite to any further investigation http://geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/TimingBelt.zip

Actually it's always acted a little sluggish starting, like it takes a revolution or two more than it should to crank, like a "hard" start but not quite. But that's because of the mileage I think and the previous owners thinking it's a ferrari; I should know it belonged to three of my family members. It has 103,000 Mi.

I checked the alternator voltage, perfect, battery is great, starter is in like new condition... It just won't completely turn over. Sometimes it acts like it wants to but it just won't. I think the timing belt might be off a bit and it's trying to compress fire into an open chamber and the crankshaft won't turn without the compression... But is that likely to be the problem seeing as it just stalled in the middle of no where doing 45?

I haven't checked the exact position of the cam gears but I will when I get it in my buddies garage; but the belt seems tight enough that it wouldn't slip... Not sure who replaced it but it looks like it was done between 60-80K because of how new the threads look.

I hoped that answered your question, thanks! -Jonathan-

Check the timing.

We have had several 98 and 99 model Sportages where the wooddrift key in the crank rusts away and the crank pulley will either not turn or will turn and every now and then actually catch and the vehicle will run.

I have also seen the end of the crank actually break off.

Hello everyone, I'm a new member here and my name is Jonathan.

My problem is this, this past Friday I was driving my sportage around town a bit and had just put gas in to do a few errands; I had a quarter of a tank when this happened also.

The car starts acting as if it's not getting fuel, it surges back and the more you step on the gas the more the lights dim and the slower the car gets; almost like a jake brake on a semi. My check engine light is still on, I've checked the fuel pump, it's fine and the lines are fine and it's getting vaccum and feeding fuel. Replaced the fuel filter, checked the coil packs and wires/plugs - good condition.

I've checked to make sure it got spark, sparked fine. I have no idea what to think from here, it has to be a sensor because I've checked the timing belt and it and the cam gears looks brand new and it's plenty plenty tight enough to keep it from slipping and the teeth are in the gears perfectly.

So, my question to the guru's here is... What the... Could it be the EGI/FUEL Relay? O2 Sensor? MAF Sensor? Crank/Throttle Pos. Sensor? I can't get the car to an auto shop or auto zone to get a code scan done because it won't crank and I can't afford a tow service and know no one with a truck to pull it. And replacing sensors left and right just because isn't in my budget right now; seeing as the dealership wants $25 a relay for the EGI/FUEL.

Please help me anyway you can, I'm running out of options and days off from work... Thankyou! -Jonathan-


check your EGI/FUEL Relays...... we have had some of them go bad...specially when the engine bay heats up.....

Kevin

check your EGI/FUEL Relays...... we have had some of them go bad...specially when the engine bay heats up.....

Kevin


Same here, several actually. A good way to check is to swap the relays and turn the key on and see if the MIL is on. If not swap them back and repeat if the light is on you have a bad relay.

Also DO NOT replace them with aftermarket, they do not have the proper circuitry for the O2 sensors.

Same here, several actually. A good way to check is to swap the relays and turn the key on and see if the MIL is on. If not swap them back and repeat if the light is on you have a bad relay.

Also DO NOT replace them with aftermarket, they do not have the proper circuitry for the O2 sensors.


Well, I'm not sure if it had anything to do with it but I think my battery died overnight? I didn't check before I switched around the fuses, but nothing came on inside the cab or the panel display, switched them back and still nothing. Weird... Guess it's time to jump it again and see where the power is being lost.

Well, I'm not sure if it had anything to do with it but I think my battery died overnight? I didn't check before I switched around the fuses, but nothing came on inside the cab or the panel display, switched them back and still nothing. Weird... Guess it's time to jump it again and see where the power is being lost.


I take it then the car will start and run??

Swapping those relays isnt going to help if it starts and runs. Its only a good test for a no start problem.

As for the battery, you may have a parasitc drain, I believe the spec to be 30-50 milliamps draw with everything off in the car. I may be slightly off on the spec. You can also check for a drain with a test light if the drain is high enough but is not as accurate a test.

I take it then the car will start and run??

Swapping those relays isnt going to help if it starts and runs. Its only a good test for a no start problem.

As for the battery, you may have a parasitc drain, I believe the spec to be 30-50 milliamps draw with everything off in the car. I may be slightly off on the spec. You can also check for a drain with a test light if the drain is high enough but is not as accurate a test.


No I was not able to try and start the car, the battery was jumped off and charged for probably a good fifteen minutes by a friend with a brand new battery in his truck yesterday... That's why it's so odd to me, less than 24 hours and the battery is drained COMPLETELY? (Not even the little light for my phone charger in the cigarette lighter would come on.)

I'll have to wait until my battery charger is done charging my battery, 12V 6AMP charger says it's going to take up to eight hours... I'm pulling it at 4:00 CST though, lol... I can't wait that long.

After that I will try and swap the relays again and check the diagnosis... One stupid question though, I'm a little blonde today... MIL is an acronym for what?

Thankyou so much for everyone's help, it's much appreciated!
-Jonathan-.

After that I will try and swap the relays again and check the diagnosis... One stupid question though, I'm a little blonde today... MIL is an acronym for what?

Thankyou so much for everyone's help, it's much appreciated!
-Jonathan-.


Malfunction indicator lamp AKA Check engine light.

THe EGI relay sends power to the EGI or ECM and when you turn the key on the EGI performs a bulb check to make sure the engine light works.

If the relay is bad, the light will not come on because the EGI isnt getting powered up.

By the way there is no such thing as a stupid question. How else are you going to learn?

Oops forgot, when you get the vehicle started check the voltage at the battery and make sure the alternator is charging 13.8 to 14.6 is good.

If its not charging that may cause a stalling problem also and would explain the dead battery.

Malfunction indicator lamp AKA Check engine light.

THe EGI relay sends power to the EGI or ECM and when you turn the key on the EGI performs a bulb check to make sure the engine light works.

If the relay is bad, the light will not come on because the EGI isnt getting powered up.

By the way there is no such thing as a stupid question. How else are you going to learn?

Oops forgot, when you get the vehicle started check the voltage at the battery and make sure the alternator is charging 13.8 to 14.6 is good.

If its not charging that may cause a stalling problem also and would explain the dead battery.

Will do! Well got the battery juiced up and threw her back, switched the relays back and forth and the light stayed on so I think the fuses are ok.

But I did run into something odd... I tried starting it just to see if I could get lucky like that one user who unplugged their battery for a minute and hooked it back up and it fired right up. Well mine almost did, it was the second time I tried it that it sounded like it was ready to pop some exhaust out and fire right up but then it went back to normal.

I wanted one last look at that timing belt before I made any more decisions, now I don't know the exact way the cam gears are suppose to line up but if the letters are suppose to match each others location then both cams are waaaaaaay off, probably 8-12 teeth.

If I can I'll get a photo of the cams or if I can find the alignment of how they're suppose to be I'll check them again and see what I can find. Thanks again! -Jonathan-

Okay after looking at the cams again they look like this.

The passenger side or the left cam when facing from the front of the engine has the marking "E" for exhaust at the top.

The driver side or the right cam when facing from the front of the engine has the marking "I" for intake at the top.

Aren't these backwards?... The intake manifold runs to the left of the engine and the cat is situated on the right... I tried to see if they turn freely and they're locked in place. Any ideas?

Thanks again! - Jonathan-

Okay after looking at the cams again they look like this.

The passenger side or the left cam when facing from the front of the engine has the marking "E" for exhaust at the top.

The driver side or the right cam when facing from the front of the engine has the marking "I" for intake at the top.

Aren't these backwards?... The intake manifold runs to the left of the engine and the cat is situated on the right... I tried to see if they turn freely and they're locked in place. Any ideas?

Thanks again! - Jonathan-

You are 180 degrees off. The crank turns 2 revs for every one of the cam, so the crank can be on the mark and the cams can be on the mark but 180 off.

Rotate the crank again until the mark lines up with time. Then look at the cams, I should be 12 oclock on the left and E should be 12 oclock on the right if you are facing the engine.

If they all line up your timing is good.

Another thing you can check is the IAC motor. Its a solenoid located just to the left of the air tube. Unplug that and take the 2 screws off,they are going to be tight so use a quality phillips screwdriver.

Remove it and see if the valve inside moves free with a small screwdriver, just wiggle it a little. It should move and go back to its orginal position when you release it. I have had these get stuck and cause a crank no start condition.

Also if the battery is weak, the engine may not be getting sufficient spark to ignite the fuel, its rare but I have seen it happen.

You are 180 degrees off. The crank turns 2 revs for every one of the cam, so the crank can be on the mark and the cams can be on the mark but 180 off.

Rotate the crank again until the mark lines up with time. Then look at the cams, I should be 12 oclock on the left and E should be 12 oclock on the right if you are facing the engine.

If they all line up your timing is good.

Another thing you can check is the IAC motor. Its a solenoid located just to the left of the air tube. Unplug that and take the 2 screws off,they are going to be tight so use a quality phillips screwdriver.

Remove it and see if the valve inside moves free with a small screwdriver, just wiggle it a little. It should move and go back to its orginal position when you release it. I have had these get stuck and cause a crank no start condition.

Also if the battery is weak, the engine may not be getting sufficient spark to ignite the fuel, its rare but I have seen it happen.


Well, I give up... I've broken four 9/16 sockets, a wrench, two reducers and some skin trying to remove this damned bolt holding the alternator bracket on that covers the last damned bolt holding the timing cover on...

I have no bright ideas on how else to turn the crank and check it's alignment other than just start smashing crap with a hammer; which right now sounds like a good idea. Maybe throwing a match in the gas tank will make it kick over and fire...

I'm sorry for the flame coming from my keyboard, but this car is the most repulsive and appauling piece of crap I have ever had the unfortunate task of working on... It's like every little freggin' bolt was put on with a 200lb air gun and then sealed with cement to make sure it takes a mechanic with the same tool to take it off...

I love the little car, it got great gas mileage and is a dependable work or recreational vehicle but I'm at nerves end with it now. I've given up and will just sink myself $2000 in debt for a mechanic bill on a car that has $2000 left to pay on it. It'll be next year before I can pay it off...

Thanks for everyone's help, it was greatly appreciated and I thank everyone for trying to help me fix this car; but I'm not good with things not working after the 7th/8th time of trying.

Next time I'm buying a honda civic with a VTEC, at least I can tear those down and rebuild them with my eyes closed lol... Thanks again! -Jonathan-.

Too bad you did not succeed..about timing, I wonder if you had opened the files I had posted at the beginning of this thread ...these drawings
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/timingmark1.gif
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/timingmark2.gif
should have made you confortable ...
I do not see how E can be on the left (passenger side) and I on the right..unless someone joked around and switched the gears one for the other...(unless both gears are identical and carry an E and an I..which I have not checked).
ABout that bolt: (14mm....9/16 is 14.2875 mm, which is 1.1 thousandth of an inch larger, quite close) not sure but if it is bolted into aluminum, a chemical bond fuses dissimilar metals together unless antiseize compound is used at assembly so extreme force can be indeed required to get it loose. An impact tool might help. Torquing it with sheer force might just break the bolt instead. However...I wonder why you should take it out at that point....is it different from this http://geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/timingbelt.jpg

Well, I give up... I've broken four 9/16 sockets, a wrench, two reducers and some skin trying to remove this damned bolt holding the alternator bracket on that covers the last damned bolt holding the timing cover on...

I have no bright ideas on how else to turn the crank and check it's alignment other than just start smashing crap with a hammer; which right now sounds like a good idea. Maybe throwing a match in the gas tank will make it kick over and fire...

I'm sorry for the flame coming from my keyboard, but this car is the most repulsive and appauling piece of crap I have ever had the unfortunate task of working on... It's like every little freggin' bolt was put on with a 200lb air gun and then sealed with cement to make sure it takes a mechanic with the same tool to take it off...

I love the little car, it got great gas mileage and is a dependable work or recreational vehicle but I'm at nerves end with it now. I've given up and will just sink myself $2000 in debt for a mechanic bill on a car that has $2000 left to pay on it. It'll be next year before I can pay it off...

Thanks for everyone's help, it was greatly appreciated and I thank everyone for trying to help me fix this car; but I'm not good with things not working after the 7th/8th time of trying.

Next time I'm buying a honda civic with a VTEC, at least I can tear those down and rebuild them with my eyes closed lol... Thanks again! -Jonathan-.


That bolt you are trying to take off is 14mm. THis is why you are breaking sockets.

Unless someone has been playing with it, it should not be that tight.

Everyone gets frustrated, dont get yourself down.

That bolt you are trying to take off is 14mm. THis is why you are breaking sockets.

Unless someone has been playing with it, it should not be that tight.

Everyone gets frustrated, dont get yourself down.

I finally got it undone, I'm just using a breakover bar I borrowed from a friend. Still having difficulties with some of these bolts, and yes my engine is slightly different, in the way things are bolted on like the alternator; it just bolts on to other gut parts.

But I've got someone going to tow it to a garage for me so I can work on it and not freeze to death, I should have it done and working next week. I checked the belt again and it's got missing teeth and somehow came really lose to where you can almost pull it off without effort.

Yes also the cam gears are double marked. Left cam has E at 12 at I at 6, the right cam has I at 12 and E at 6, the S is around 3 I think, not completely sure on that it's been a few days since I looked at it.

Thanks again for the help everyone, sorry about the frustration and everything... -Jonathan-

I finally got it undone, I'm just using a breakover bar I borrowed from a friend. Still having difficulties with some of these bolts, and yes my engine is slightly different, in the way things are bolted on like the alternator; it just bolts on to other gut parts.

But I've got someone going to tow it to a garage for me so I can work on it and not freeze to death, I should have it done and working next week. I checked the belt again and it's got missing teeth and somehow came really lose to where you can almost pull it off without effort.

Yes also the cam gears are double marked. Left cam has E at 12 at I at 6, the right cam has I at 12 and E at 6, the S is around 3 I think, not completely sure on that it's been a few days since I looked at it.

Thanks again for the help everyone, sorry about the frustration and everything... -Jonathan-


If the timing belt is missing teeth you need to replace it.

I've got a 2002 Sportage, 97K miles on it. Recently it began hesitating real bad and also started to die when I gave it more gas. It was also backfiring. The dealer found my timing belt loose, but that was in addition to the real culprit, which was the fuel pump. Ever since the pump was replaced, no more hesitations or near-stalls.

It was an expensive repair.

Dave

Well, after finally getting all of the parts/tools/time/extra skin for knuckles/rained on/sleeted on/hailed on/snowed on (All within 8 hours).

I finally thought I had this sucker fixed, it was the timing belt for sure.
I pulled the old one off and somehow the crankshaft ate away 11 teeth from it (belt was ready to snap anyway; it was either eat the teeth or snap it.)

After a little trouble and freezing my @^&%$@^* off, I got the new one on!
(Believe me, those TM Fan nuts are a biaaaaaatch... Pardon my language.)

So I tighten everything back up, put it all back together and smile...
I connect my battery cables back up (Bought a new battery also, just incase.) And went to the cab of my little Kia to fire her up.

Took a little bit to get her going, seeing as it was a month since it had been started; I think it took about 3 to 4 tries before I hit the gas a little and she popped right over; but not the same old her...

She's running really rough now, like it wants to die but yet it's running at normal idle; if I step on the gas pedal any it just smoothes right out until I let off and then it goes to hard vibrating and shaking again.

Maybe I didn't let it set long enough? I only let it run like that for maybe a minute because I was afraid I'd cause more damage. I'm pretty sure I set the cams right, the only thing was is I was doing it by myself so I couldn't hold both cams and align them and then put the belt on too.
But I did turn the cams and when the valves closed the marks were maybe one tooth off from 12, I didn't think that was a big deal?

I'm going to try and clean the IAC and see if that helps, thanks everyone for your help!

Well, after finally getting all of the parts/tools/time/extra skin for knuckles/rained on/sleeted on/hailed on/snowed on (All within 8 hours).

I finally thought I had this sucker fixed, it was the timing belt for sure.
I pulled the old one off and somehow the crankshaft ate away 11 teeth from it (belt was ready to snap anyway; it was either eat the teeth or snap it.)

After a little trouble and freezing my @^&%$@^* off, I got the new one on!
(Believe me, those TM Fan nuts are a biaaaaaatch... Pardon my language.)

So I tighten everything back up, put it all back together and smile...
I connect my battery cables back up (Bought a new battery also, just incase.) And went to the cab of my little Kia to fire her up.

Took a little bit to get her going, seeing as it was a month since it had been started; I think it took about 3 to 4 tries before I hit the gas a little and she popped right over; but not the same old her...

She's running really rough now, like it wants to die but yet it's running at normal idle; if I step on the gas pedal any it just smoothes right out until I let off and then it goes to hard vibrating and shaking again.

Maybe I didn't let it set long enough? I only let it run like that for maybe a minute because I was afraid I'd cause more damage. I'm pretty sure I set the cams right, the only thing was is I was doing it by myself so I couldn't hold both cams and align them and then put the belt on too.
But I did turn the cams and when the valves closed the marks were maybe one tooth off from 12, I didn't think that was a big deal?

I'm going to try and clean the IAC and see if that helps, thanks everyone for your help!


One tooth off can make all the difference in the world. Do not worry these are non interference engines.

What I do is set the cams at 12 oclock and then get a small pair of vise grips on the cam gear and clamp it, not too tight, so the vise grips rest against that center cover mount. They wont move then.

Turn the crank back counter clockwise about a half to one tooth, then put the belt on the cams, clamp the belt with paper clips or small plastic clamps so as not to put psi on the belt. You just clamp it to hold it not to crush it.

Then go to the idler pulley around the crank taking as much slack out of the belt on that side as possible. Hold the belt tight and turn the crank to the TDC mark and slip the belt over the tensioner. Loosen the tensioner and allow the spring to tighten the belt.

Now I have been told to turn it to the S on the cam at 12 and then tighten it, never done it that way and after about 100 tbelts on Sportages I can safely say its not necessary.

Turn the crank 2 revolutions and line up the crank and cams they should be good to go, if not start over.

Also if it runs like S**T you may want to run it a while, it may be loaded up with fuel and then after sitting for so long it may take a while for it to clear up.

Well, after some motivation from the members and some spare time.
I finally (after a lot of cussing, again...) got the timing belt back on and everything lined up perfectly. I crank 'er up, she's purring like a kitten without a hairball now.

Only one problem, when I put it in gear it seems to lug down a little more than usual; I think me running it a little while when it was off time fouled my plugs so I need to get those changed; they were probably due anyway.

Question though, is it normal for the brakes to be hard to use after a vehicle sets up for almost two months? They work, it just takes a little more muscle to push than it normaly did; no squeeking no jerking or anything... Just seems like it takes a little more foot power; but the pedal has no play...

Thanks again everyone for helping me fix my car! Thankyou all SO MUCH! Now I can go to work and not have to bum a ride anymore, *BIG HUGS FOR EVERYONE!* I'm so happy I got my little Mini-SUV back...

Well, after some motivation from the members and some spare time.
I finally (after a lot of cussing, again...) got the timing belt back on and everything lined up perfectly. I crank 'er up, she's purring like a kitten without a hairball now.

Only one problem, when I put it in gear it seems to lug down a little more than usual; I think me running it a little while when it was off time fouled my plugs so I need to get those changed; they were probably due anyway.

Question though, is it normal for the brakes to be hard to use after a vehicle sets up for almost two months? They work, it just takes a little more muscle to push than it normaly did; no squeeking no jerking or anything... Just seems like it takes a little more foot power; but the pedal has no play...

Thanks again everyone for helping me fix my car! Thankyou all SO MUCH! Now I can go to work and not have to bum a ride anymore, *BIG HUGS FOR EVERYONE!* I'm so happy I got my little Mini-SUV back...


Good for you!!!

As far as your brakes are concerned you probably have what us dealer techs refer to as "lot rot" whereas the rotors and drums build up surface rust. Drive her a little and apply the brakes while driving usually cleans this up....if its not too bad which I am sure is your case.

Let us know.

Thanks Creeper, yes I think it was just some surface rust because it cleared up quickly after a few trips to walmart and to my jobsite - one day lol.

But now I'm scared that my whole engine is falling apart on me, I went and changed the spark plugs yesterday and took out the Bosch Super's (My sister put those in, she knows I'm against Bosch.) And put in some NGK Copper's and ran into something scary...

As I was changing the last plug, the one under the coil pack closest to the firewall. I pull the plug out and my socket and the plug itself was SOAKED in fresh oil, I almost wizzed on myself when I saw that brown liquid all over that plug...

I couldn't get my head back there far enough to see how much oil was in the chamber but I installed the new plug and went on... I'm willing to bet a nice crisp twenty that is what's making me shudder when switching gears and letting the engine do the work in reverse or sitting idle at stop lights...

I've heard from somewhere that it's usually the valve seal that causes this right? But here's my question, we're about getting sick with this car and it's constant repairs... Would it be wise just to trade it in now while it's running for a down payment on a used car? It has 104,000 mi and it shows it; inside and out.

Thanks for your opinions and your help everyone! -Jonathan-

Thanks Creeper, yes I think it was just some surface rust because it cleared up quickly after a few trips to walmart and to my jobsite - one day lol.

But now I'm scared that my whole engine is falling apart on me, I went and changed the spark plugs yesterday and took out the Bosch Super's (My sister put those in, she knows I'm against Bosch.) And put in some NGK Copper's and ran into something scary...

As I was changing the last plug, the one under the coil pack closest to the firewall. I pull the plug out and my socket and the plug itself was SOAKED in fresh oil, I almost wizzed on myself when I saw that brown liquid all over that plug...

I couldn't get my head back there far enough to see how much oil was in the chamber but I installed the new plug and went on... I'm willing to bet a nice crisp twenty that is what's making me shudder when switching gears and letting the engine do the work in reverse or sitting idle at stop lights...

I've heard from somewhere that it's usually the valve seal that causes this right? But here's my question, we're about getting sick with this car and it's constant repairs... Would it be wise just to trade it in now while it's running for a down payment on a used car? It has 104,000 mi and it shows it; inside and out.

Thanks for your opinions and your help everyone! -Jonathan-

The valve cover gasket is leaking. It leaks into the plug hole and yes can cause a misfire problem. Valve cover gasket shouldnt cost more than 55 bucks.

Its up to you about keeping it or not. The resale value is not good on older Kias and they wont give you squat for a trade in.

I look at it like this. In theory, the worst that could happen is the engine explodes costing say 1200 bucks to replace the engine. Thats what 4 car payments? Your car I assume is paid off. You do the math.

But like I said you have a leaking valve cover gasket. I recommend replacing the PCV while you are in there.

I have seen Sportages with 200,000+ come into the dealer.

that bolt is subject to the expansion and contraction of the aluminuim block, it's going to be tight. if you know someone with a torch, before you torch the car, try heating the area around the bolt then extracting the bolt. I had something like that happen on a snowblower I was trying to fix. the main bolt wouldn't move. wound up asking my mechanic for help, I held his welding torch at the base of the bolt and he turned the bolt with an air impact wrench. came off in a second. he said you have to heat it fast as not to damage anything around it.