TS-13 or X-22?

Hi!
I think, I need to clearcoat my TS-51 (it is look OK but I want to look it better) but I found so many problems with Tamiya TS-13 in this forum.
I don't want to ruin my paint job and start over because in Russia prices for spraycans is very high =(
Can I use acrylic X-22 Clear for coating?
I know, I can. But there is any visual difference between TS-13 and X-22? Maybe TS-13 looks better? And X-22 is same as other Tamiya acrylic (I mean it can be scratched easily if airbrushed)? If I apply it with brush there is visible strokes?
Even more - painting TS-51 was trickly (tried to paint wet as usual color like TS-8 and paint start to run down because part was round). Any advices how to proper paint metallic?

yes, some differences: x22 is safe for uderlayer and decals, ts13 is simply better. an x22 clearcoated stuff is more plastic-like to me, a polished ts13.. well we know! :grinyes:

and... cans aren't cheap here: quetly over 7-8 eur, dammn great stuff :naughty:

Welcome!

You can definitely clear coat with X-22 (MPWR and (I think) Mickbench have shown their work with it - try searching for their threads).

Let it dry thoroughly before polishing it out though and I wouldn't reccomend brushing it on! ;)

If you don't have and airbrush and don't have access to spray cans of Gunze Mr. Topcoat you can use the TS-13 - just build up several LIGHT coats at first!! First time I used it, I put it on too heavily and of course - disaster.

Different colours will behave differently - it's always a good idea to test it out on scrap body before spraying your model. Then you will get a feel for how "wet" should a wet coat be before it starts running.

HTH

As klutz_100 mentions Gunze B501 Mr. Topcote is as excellent a clear as I have ever used and it's safe over decals. I love it. I have to order it from Japan. That's what I use when I have to clear over any paint/decals that I suspect will be a problem. X22 is best airbrushed, not hand brushed, and needs a lot of drying time vs. the TS13 lacquer.

...you can use the TS-13 - just build up several LIGHT coats at first!!...
Thanks for advise.
But what mean light coat for TS-13? How much cm away from part?
I painted with TS-51 from 25 cm and it is OK for this paint but I painted TS-8 from 10-15 cm and it is almost not enough. =)
Anyway, if I decide to coat with TS-13, should I wait about a month? Or if I paint with light coats first then it is not neccessary?
How much time need between each clear light coat? Should I add a wet clear coat at end or not (if I don't planning to polish)?
Thanks again.

Thanks for advise.
But what mean light coat for TS-13? How much cm away from part?
I painted with TS-51 from 25 cm and it is OK for this paint but I painted TS-8 from 10-15 cm and it is almost not enough. =)
Anyway, if I decide to coat with TS-13, should I wait about a month? Or if I paint with light coats first then it is not neccessary?
How much time need between each clear light coat? Should I add a wet clear coat at end or not (if I don't planning to polish)?
Thanks again.
at least 3-4 mist layer, 20 cm should be ok, wait 1h between coats, than 2 "less then wet" coats: if you achieve a thick and glossy finish this could melt prev. layer (and burn decals and ts51)
don't worry about a little OP: just polish it (7-8 days should be sufficent to me, someone here wait to cure more :grinno: )
so there's no way to explain better: try (and welcome here)

more: search feature allow to introduce you to that matter (explained by masters, not average mods. like me) and also to other cool tips, like hot can painting & co...

TS-13 and X22 each take alot of patience and care to apply. When done well, there is no visible difference between them.

This is X22 airbrushed over Tamiya acrylics:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/502/67954109_0961.JPG

I've used both, and my F50 is the last model I will ever spray with TS-13. Sure, you can get a good shine from it, but I'm sick of having it ruin what's under it. Yes, I know, it can be used safely, lots of light coats to build it up, etc., but I have never ruined anything by spraying X22 on it. TS-13 is too unforgiving for me to choose to use it. If it were the only option, sure I'd probably suck it up and use it occasionally- but I'd much rather use X22.

Here's a big advantage to using X22- since you've used Tamiya laquer as your base color, you can spray all the X22 you want on it- and if you're unhappy with the results, you can easily strip off the X22 without harming the laquer underneith. You definately can't do that with TS-13.

Here's a big advantage to using X22- since you've used Tamiya laquer as your base color, you can spray all the X22 you want on it- and if you're unhappy with the results, you can easily strip off the X22 without harming the laquer underneith. You definately can't do that with TS-13.
another good advantage is panel line filling: easy with thinned enamels on acrylics, quetly hard achieve a super-clean job with everything on laquer to me.

I love TS-13 but after a few nasty lessons now don't spray it directly from the can straight over decals and colour coats. Instead I decant it and apply 2 or 3 mist coats through the airbrush first. This creates a nice barrier after which I can go to town with the can. A couple more light coats and finish off with a wet one. I also sand down lightly between coats, to smooth out decal ridges and the like. I like to finish off with the can because I can use it outside where dust is less of a problem.