Please Help!!!!!!

I have a 95 z28 Camaro and theres just one problem after another. My girlfriend was leaving work and went to start the car and it wouldn't start. I tested it with my multi-meter and the battery is fully charged. When the key is inserted in the ignition the chimes go on like normal. once the key is turned to the run position, the chimes turn off like they normally would but no lights light up on the dash and the radio does not turn on. In other words nothing works. Even when the key is turned back to ACC nothing turns on. Meanwhile the car is sitting in a parking lot and I must get this thing home. Anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this?

I Would Have To Say That The Chip On The Key Is Bad Try The Extra Key

does the security light come on on the dash? mine did that with a bad key before too

VATS problem I'd say

does the security light come on on the dash? mine did that with a bad key before too

No lights come on at all. Not even the security light. I tried both keys and I still get nothing. It sounds like it could be one of the 2 common camaro problems which is the VATS system of course and the ignition switch. But if it were the ignition switch would that cause the lights to not light? Also how can I bypass the VATS? Is it a big job?

http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/vats.shtml


Thats for thirdgens but I think its the same concept. Make sure to disconnect your battery before messing with it.

Now I think i'm screwed. I did the VATS bypass and still nothing. I checked the wires going to the key and they came out to a perfect .681 K ohms. I'm not sure if this is normal but after I plugged the harness back in after I discovered the bypass didn't work I checked the ohm reading and it came out to .623 K ohms. That may be normal after being plugged back in but i'm not sure. Anyone have any other ideas of what this could be?

I have done some more digging around and I am convinced that the problem has nothing to do with the VATS system. The symptoms are not the same and the security light usually lights up in some way and mine doesn't. I get a completely blank dash. Is the ignition switch a common problem on these cars? Easy to remove? I have no idea if that's the problem or not but it sounds like a possibility.

the swith is pretty easy to do. All you do is remove a few plastic covers, than the 2 bolts that hold the steering column and maybe 3 or 4bolts that bolt it to the firewall.( dissable the airbag by pulling out the fuse first) The column should fall down and from there you access it. Dont know how to test it tough. But it probably should make a click at least similar to a relay. (voltage test it). Go on-line and check anyway-that probably will be more helpful.

I hink it could be pretty common because all electrical things in GM cars are of a poor design.

Also check the battery,starter, and ground connections first. Its defenatly clear that you dont get any power-must be the switch.

Couldnt the battery still be the problem even if it is putting out the correct amount of voltage. Put the meter on the car while someone tries to start it and see what it reads. Maybe just give jumping it a shot to see what happens. You could also find the wires to the starter and rig up a direct connection from the battery to test the starter.

I towed the car to get a diagnostics check today and they found out that the ignition system is getting no power at all so that eliminates the ignition switch. He said all of the fuses were fine. Is there a relay or some other type of switch that could have gone bad? I also recall that the car has done this in the past but always started up after waiting a while. It just finally decided to die out the other night. So my guess is its something that was in the process of going bad possibly a relay of some sort or maybe a loose wire?

The ignition switch is the relay.. Da.. its what shorts the primary circuit. All the rest is grounds and connections to battery and different junktions, etc which rarely fail. And it doesnt get power and wont turn over because there is no power to the starter. So they are gonna replace the switch instead of you or find a loose wire or bad ground.

I took the car in to a technician and found the problem and got it fixed so I am just sharing it with everyone in case this happens to you. Unfortunately ignition switches in GM cars tend to burn up. The ignition switch was previously replaced I'm guessing because it burned up. Well the same thing happened only it didn't pop the fuse like it's supposed to and it didn't burn up the ignition switch which is usually what happens. When the new ignition switch was put in, they also replaced the harness that connects to the steering column. They used butt connectors to connect the harness. The wires fried up inside the butt connectors which caused a loose connection. So if anyone else has this problem, It would probably be either your fusable link going to the ignition switch (which I was told never does it's job) or a bad or fried ignition switch.

How much did it cost ya?