clutch problem! Where to start??????

I have a 2000 S-10 4 cyl. 2.2 liter Vortec 2 wheel drive truck with 210,000 miles on it. (was a fleet truck before i bought it).
Since i bought this truck last year it has been occacionally grinding gears. 2 days ago it started to get hard to shift gears. Today I can't get it into gear when it's running. If i pump the clutch pedal a few times really fast this will allow me to get it into gear, then it's pump it for second gear, etc. etc. etc..... People are starting to stare at me strangely :sly:
I'm pretty good with mechanics so if someone can point me in the right direction to start this repair i would really apreciate it.
One more thing, when the truck is in gear it runs great, no slipping at all.
also the resevoir was low, so i filled it, still no improvement.
Another question i have is, how do i check the transmission fluid level, what kind of tool am i suppose to use, looks like a huge ratchet minus the socket.
Thanks

there should be a plug that you can take out on the side of the trans, 3/8square and a ratchet should fit right on it. secondly it def sounds like the clutch is worn out. and with that many miles replacing the clutch master cylinder, slave, clutch+pressure plate and having the flywheel machined or getting a new one should set you for another 100k or so.

You should first check to see why the reservoir was low. I don't know if it goes down over time as the clutch wears but it could also be a leak somewhere like at the master cylinder (on the firewall side of the clutch pedal) or at the slave cylinder (at the transmission).

My older S10 showed the same symptoms. It turned out that the rubber hose line between the reservoir and the master cylinder was deteriorated and fluid was being lost. I replaced the rubber hose, bled the system at the slave cylinder, and all's well. There's no cost to check this out and it could be a cheap fix that may get you going again.

The following is from www.autozone.com Vehicle Info - Vehicle Repair Guides

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING

Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder screw of the slave cylinder or concentric cylinder using a box-end wrench

Bleeding air from the hydraulic clutch system is necessary whenever any part of the system has been disconnected or the fluid level (in the reservoir) has been allowed to fall so low, that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.

1. Fill master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications. Check manufactures recommendations for each vehicle.

CAUTION
Never, under any circumstances, use fluid which has been bled from a system to fill the reservoir as it may be aerated, have too much moisture content and possibly be contaminated.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle high enough to work comfortable under it.

3. Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder screw of the slave cylinder or concentric cylinder.

4. Close the bleeder screw and have your assistant release the clutch pedal.

5. Repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system. Check and refill master cylinder reservoir as required to prevent air from being drawn through the master cylinder.

Never release a depressed clutch pedal with the bleeder screw open or air will be drawn into the system.

6. Lower the vehicle and test clutch operation.

7. If the previous steps do not result in satisfactory pedal feel, remove the reservoir cap and pump the clutch pedal very fast for 30 seconds. Stop to let the air escape, then repeat the procedure as necessary to purge all remaining air.

8. Check the master cylinder fluid level and replenish as necessary.