'02 with Mach Audio System, Amp question

Not too sure if any of you guys are electronical whizzes or not but here goes anyway...

I'm attempting to install an amp and subwoofers in my trunk. I purchased everything that I needed, including the wiring to run RCAs out of my rear speakers, due to lack of an RCA out on the head unit. The head unit also doesn't have the Remote Wire output on it, or at least I don't figure that it would.

The guy at the audio shop here in town, told me that I could hook the remote for my subwoofer amp, up to the remote/switch wire on the factory amp. So I dug it up, and I can't find where the remote/switch wire is on the original amp. He mentioned turning the car onto RUN, or ACC, and then using a test light to test the plugs. Only one plug tripped the light, but this wire contained voltage, even with the key out of the vehicle. This leads me to believe that the wire is the one that is ALWAYS hot, running the clock and all while your vehicle is off, and your keys are not in it.

I don't want to get a new head unit, for several reasons. I don't want to lose the 6 disc changer, I don't want to find something to fit the space that the head unit is now filling, and I don't want to have to replace the EATC faceplate and all, just to have the head unit look... not all boogered up.

So does anyone know off-hand, or could point me someplace I can find out where the remote/switch wire is? I have everything else, the RCAs, Power, Ground wire all ready to go, I just need a remote.

Or... If anyone knows another way to run a remote wire, that'd be awesome.

Thanks in advance

Any keyed hot wire on your car will work.More times than not people use the same wire that turns the radio on.If I'm not mistaken it should be orange,or red.Anything that comes on when you turn on the key will work.Hopefully that helps some

That wire will be input not output.When you find it just scotchlok (available at any auto parts store) your remote wire to it.

You could tap in to the trigger wire for your power antenna too, which should be located in very close proximity to the control/amplifier unit in your trunk. I'll try to pull find time to pull up the schematics for you tonight. If you PM me an e-mail address that can accept schematics, I can send you the PDFs when I find them.

-Rod

Pins 6 (Black/Pink wire) and 16 (Red/Yellow) in connector C2009 at the Integrated Control Panel (ICP) should have power with the key in Run or Acc.

-Rod

ya know somehow I knew I got those wire colors wrong.Sorry

ya know somehow I knew I got those wire colors wrong.Sorry

Well, for a typical aftermarket deck, the colors you mentioned are partially correct. My recall is the red wire is typically the hot with key on, yellow is constant battery (yellow and red may be backwards?), orange is illumination, and blue is remote/power antenna.

For whatever reason, the aftermarket industry standard does not usually match the OEM wire color choices.

-Rod

Yeah actually I was thinking of a Dodge wiring harness which coincidently matches almost perfect.Oh well at least someone corrected me before InsigniaDelta went hacking the wrong wires.Thanks

Pins 6 (Black/Pink wire) and 16 (Red/Yellow) in connector C2009 at the Integrated Control Panel (ICP) should have power with the key in Run or Acc.

Alright. The schematics I have, show the ICP, but where is that? It also shows the RCU (Rear Control Unit) which I'm guessing is the amp in the back. So If I'm hacking into Pin 6 or Pin 16 in C2009, is that gonna be one of the connectors running directly to the amp? Or up towards my head unit? =/

The ICP is the Integrated Control Panel, the dash-mounted display with the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) "integrated" with it. The wires will not necessarily go all the way to the amp in the rear, which is the RCU. However, if you have a test light, you should be able to find a "remote" wire at the RCU. The schematic I have for the 2002 is fairly poor, doesn't do a good job of defining all the wires in the connectors. Well, the manual probably has the diagrams, I just haven't found them on the CD-ROM yet.

-Rod

How much work is it, to take the ICP out?

You will need the special removal tools that are a hoop of wire that loops around and goes through both holes on each side of the ICP. The wire hoops squeeze in the release tabs so you can slide the ICP out and unplug connectors to get it completely out. You can also use pieces of metal coat hangers in place of the special tools, but the proper tool has tapered ends with balls at the tip to aid in pulling the ICP out.

-Rod