Absolutly Frustrated!

Okay, Im going to try and make this as simple as possible explain.. straight to the point the best that I can.

I have a 1999 Cougar, automatic transmission, v6, 2.5 L engine, built date of Aug 1998. Here are the problems/symptoms: stalling, stuttering, dies while in park and while ideling, check engine light on (no codes except memory code for lean exhaust on bank 1 and 2).While driving, I have to have my foot on the gas and the brake at the same time to keep it from dying in traffic. The best way to describe it would be to say that it acts like its running out of gas. Then, this morning I was warming it up, and I got out to scrap the ice off my windows, and it died. As a result, the key was left in the on position for about 3 or 4 min. Not very long at all, but when I went to start it, didnt want to. It was like the battery was weak and dying or something. I had to sit for a couple mins to get it to started. Another strange thing is that the LED display that shows my odometer, clock, temperature, etc keeps messing up. Sometimes its on, sometimes its partial visible, and sometimes its completly gone. (when it comes back on, its still current)

The things we have already done... rebuilt alternator, replaced fuel pump, replaced mass air flow sensor, replaced air coolant sensor, cleaned EGR valve, replaced air intake hose, and changed air filter. Its about to drive me crazy because we have no idea what to fix, and the mechanics say there are no new codes. They have no clue. I've heard several different things from different people. Ive heard about battery wires being misrouted to the alternator causing it to go bad, Ive heard something about vacuum lines leaking, o2 sensors going bad, the cat converter going out. I wondered if anyone else has had this problem. HELP!!! :wtf:

I went through much of the same problem. I took it to a shop and they told me because of the missing and back firing that I should replace my brand new plugs again. They also said the intake was leaking.

I went to replace the intake gaskets and found that a $7 plastic holder that connects the butterflies in the intake was missing. This is what keeps the linkage together. I replaced the gaskets, cleaned the intake and replaced that plastic linkage connector. The car is running like a champ!

I have some sort of rod missing in my intake as well. It's used in operating the valves... wonder if its the same part? I was told I had to get a whole new intake. Hmm...

I have some sort of rod missing in my intake as well. It's used in operating the valves... wonder if its the same part? I was told I had to get a whole new intake. Hmm...

its impossible for one of the two rods to be missing. Its about 10" long and goes through three intake plenums. If it did somehow manage to disappear, its first path is the intake valves. After it destroys those, the piston will be sure to crush it in the combustion chamber, and then the exhaust valves will take its toll. Your IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Control) which operates the secondary butterflies is probably broken. Once a certain RPM is reached, the IMRC pulls a cable which opens the butterflies.

The $7 part the other guy is talking about is the plastic clip that connects the IMRC cable to the lower intake manifold piveting arm which opens the secondaries.


Chickwithacougar, I would replace the IAC if it hasnt been yet. If the IAC valve gets stuck closed (which is more prone in cold weather), its going to die when in idle and the only way its going to run is if you push the gas pedal. Basically, its an air bypass valve so when the throttle body is closed, air still has a means of getting into the engine. Close both, then your left with a flooded engine.

Another strange thing is that the LED display that shows my odometer, clock, temperature, etc keeps messing up. Sometimes its on, sometimes its partial visible, and sometimes its completly gone. (when it comes back on, its still current)

that LED display is actually an LCD display, and its normal for LCD displays to do that when really cold, is it really cold when it does it??

I agree that if it is the rod inside the intake, you have much bigger problems. The $7 part I am talking about is the clip that holds the rod between the two sides of the intake. Yes, the IMRC cable pulls to open the secondaries. However, in my case it would only open up one side 1-2-3 because the clip was missing from the 4-5-6 side so it was not opening. That is why the codes showing up said random misfire on 4-5-6 only.

If both your clips are gone, you may be missing that rod all together, not the one inside the intake.

Pulling the upper intake manifold isnt too hard of a job. Just remove the 6 bolts that hold the uim on, unclamp the accordian tube that connects to the throttle body, disconnect the throttle body linkage and then unscrew the two bolts on the egr. After that, just lift up the uim, slide out the old gaskets, slide the new in and reinstall.

I decided to ask the guy at the dealership, and he said the same thing you did. I think Im going to look into doing this. After unplugging the EGR port, it ran really great for about 2 or 3 days, now its back to running like crap.

As for the LED (LCD) display, this is the first and only time in 3 years that Ive had this problem. It was on the fritz for like 3 days, but now its fine...?? :confused:

QUOTE]Pulling the upper intake manifold isnt too hard of a job. Just remove the 6 bolts that hold the uim on, unclamp the accordian tube that connects to the throttle body, disconnect the throttle body linkage and then unscrew the two bolts on the egr. After that, just lift up the uim, slide out the old gaskets, slide the new in and reinstall. The uim gasket may not be the problem, but i can almost gaurantee there is a vacuum leak somewhere.[/QUOTE]

I think we are going to try this. Are there any special tools or parts we are going to need? How long do you think this will take? Could we do it in a weekend? Anything you suggest before we get started? Thanks!

QUOTE]Pulling the upper intake manifold isnt too hard of a job. Just remove the 6 bolts that hold the uim on, unclamp the accordian tube that connects to the throttle body, disconnect the throttle body linkage and then unscrew the two bolts on the egr. After that, just lift up the uim, slide out the old gaskets, slide the new in and reinstall. The uim gasket may not be the problem, but i can almost gaurantee there is a vacuum leak somewhere.

I think we are going to try this. Are there any special tools or parts we are going to need? How long do you think this will take? Could we do it in a weekend? Anything you suggest before we get started? Thanks![/QUOTE]

an 8mm and 10mm socket. Takes me about 20-25 mins.