How can you test continuity with an ECM and O2 Sensor?

My 'Check Engine" light came on. The 'diagnostic fuse' readout said
Oxygen Sensor - Code 13.

I replaced the O2 Sensor Bosch- light still says Code 13.

There is continuity between the exhaust manifold and the frame.

How can I test if the connection from the O2 Sensor wire up to the
ECM is not discontinuous?

I am reluctant to stick my VOM Ohm Meter onto the O2 Sensor wire
that goes to the ECM - I don't want to fry the ECM....

This is on my '93 Geo Metro (picture below) and I understand the
ECM is behind the driver's side dashboard.

How big is it? Pack of Cigarettes sized? If I knew which wire came
from the O2 Sensor, I could handle the situation....

DoctorBill

I don't know about your car, but my 96 and 97 metros have two oxy sensors. One in the catalytic converter and one in the exhaust manifold. Called downstream and upstream respectively.

I don't know about your car, but my 96 and 97 metros
have two oxy sensors. One in the catalytic converter and one in the
exhaust manifold. Called downstream and upstream respectively.

Nope, my '93 only has the one in the Exhaust Manifold.

It is in tight and should be corresponding with the ECM. ???

DoctorBill

Hi,

Man I am tired! I worked form 6am-12am yesterday! An O2 sensor does not send a variable sink (ground) to the ECU, so OHMing it is futile.
When the O2 sensor heats up it chemically reacts with the amount of oxygen in the exhaust steam. This reaction creates a low voltage signal typically from .4V - 1.0V.

If you have a digital VOM then you could look to see if your O2 is creating the signal, if not, then its bad. You wont read a steady signal and it should bounce around quickly.

I should be able to point you to the wire later on...I need to sleep some more.

Blake

What is your profession?

I have two VOM's (a Digital and an Analog) which can measure down
to 1 volt. Tomorrow I will warm the old bugger up and measure
voltage from ground to the probe's lead once she is hot.

Unplugging the probe whilst the engine is running should not change
anything if the probe is dead. Even if not, the ECM says it is.

If it is dead, I wonder if Schucks will replace it... Probably will say I
damaged it.

This is fun......

DoctorBill

Bill,
Its expensive but the money I save driving my Metro is paying for it
all.

Onward...

Does your O2 have nore than 1 wire? If so, clean the ground that is
located on the lower right edge of the intake manifold. I have a
procedure for the O2 test. Let me know.

Cheers,
Blake

An interesting life....
I wanted to save $$$ driving this Metro, but been throwing money at it
with no guarantee it won't die on me (engine).

The O2 sensor has only one wire (Bosch). Today I will warm the
car up (still 20 °F here) and look for a 0-1 volt potential wire to ground.

If there is none, I will try for wire to O2 Sensor base as last resort.

If there is the latter, I will ground the O2 Sensor to the frame with
a wire (hose clamp around base of O2 Sensor with wire attached).

If nothing, then its back to Schucks for an exchange.

Did you see my post on the Fuel Pump problem (Difficulty Removing
the Fuel Injector)? Bought a Bosch FP ($180)....etc.

DoctorBill

It is a nice idea to have a fresh pump, especially up
in the boonies where you live Doc. However it would have been wise to
diagnose the old one first.

Well.... I went by your writings on this site and "Team Swift" and did
a search of "Fuel Pump" and saw SO MANY people having
problems quite similar to mine (your's included) that I must assume
the fuel pump is bad.

I can hear it when I turn on the key (besides that G*D Damned high
pitched tone the car dashboard makes!).

Start and run engine until fully warmed, running the engine at
high idle (2000 rpmish). To e clear the engine should be running at
high idle during measurements.

I tested the O2 Sensor - 0.8 volt Positive at the wire - Negative
gounded to body. SO IT WORKS....

I just disconnected the battery again and ran thru every drain with
and without the ignition on. Lights, brakes, fan, rw defroster, and
left the car set with the ignition on. I will reconnect in maybe 30
minutes. If that doesn't clear the ECM, then the connection from the
O2 Sensor to the ECM is faulty. Or the ECM is fried...

I have to run now, but I will write more on this as well as
study the service manual for your 93. Peace, Blake


Peace unto you. Aufvedersehen. Via con Dios. Chao.

Wie Gehts, dir?

Ok, well done. Now did it maintain a steady .8V? If it does then it says
to check your ECT sensor, IAT sensor, MAP hose(for blockage), and the
MAP sensor itself. It also mentions the fuel pump/injector too. I will be
scanning the charts and references so you can check these other
components. If these components check out ok then its safe to say
your ECU is done for. Tchuss, Blake

Yes - very steady 0.8 volts......

I know about the "MAP" - Manifold Absolute Pressure.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa042603a_06.htm

ECT - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. Not to be confused with the
temperature gauge sender...? Different thingiebobs?

IAT - Intake Air Temp Sensor - on the filter housing?

Mostly - where the heck are they?

NOW....I did the 'diagnostic' fuse thing again and I swear!
if you look for the longest interval it is between the one blink
and the three blinks. That means 31 - yes? Not 13 - no?

The blinking starts with the one blink, which lead me to think
13 blinks or O2 Sensor.

If it is 31 - MAP sensor - what does a faulty MAP sensor cause
the car to do?
Would a bad MAP Sensor cause all the symptoms we had discuused
on another thread - same symptoms as a bad Fuel Pump? Throttle
weirdness, that sweet spot business, having to pump the pedal?

Can a MAP sensor be salvaged? They are freaking expensive!

WHERE is this MAP !? - on a '93 Metro 3 cyl?

DoctorBill

PS - maybe my problems are not the Fuel Pump and I can
return it before it is too late.

Soon you will have all the information that you
need; most of your questions will be answered.

Inside the MAP sensor is a tiny silicone wafer. One side of the wafer is
vacuum sealed at the factory and on the other side is the chamber
your vacuum hose is attached to. At different vacuum levels the
silicone wafer flexes changing the pressure on the sealed end. The
transducer sees the change and alters the resistance to the ECU.
Problems are due to the transducer or seal failing. Make sure the hose
is clear and not collapsing on itself under vacuum.

Off to get my kid,
CU

MAP! - I found the damned thing!

I took it out and am looking at it as I write this.

18590-60 DENSO JAPAN 5 V 100798-25.0

Rectangular box 1" x 1.5" x .75" three (side by side) prong socket
at one end, tube out the bottom middle. Black.

( - - - ) <<<<---- prongs like this.
..v g o.. <<<<----letters inside the socket.

Clamped to the firewall behind the TBI - small hose to a disk shaped
filter which I tested and passed air. The tubing seems good.

I should start the car to see if it sucks air thru that hose....

Can I test this with a VOM inside the house? Was gibt?

I can suck on the tubing to make a vacuum (don't laugh!)

I wonder if I heat this MAP up - maybe it will start working
again! That is - if it is "bad"...?
Put it on my heat register and let the house air warm it up.

DoctorBill (Sheiszkopf) spelled right?

Ja, das ist korreckt!

According to my handy dandy cheat sheet...The light green wire is
input voltage (reference from ECU (about 5+V)), and the light green
w/red stripe is output (Back to ECU) Find a way to tap into the light
green w/red stripe and start the car. At idle you should read around
1-1.5V. Disconnect the hose and you should see 4-4.5V. This should
make it easy to verify if its bad or good.

Sure inside or outside, however I doubt warming it will help. Testing on
the car will be effective if you dont have a vacuum pump. I dont think
you can generate 20+ inches of vacuum Bill.

Happy testing!
Blake
(P.S. - that's Scheisse (Scheiße), and no you dont qualify for that
title.)

Ever seen a "hickie", Blake. Try sucking as hard as you can on a
vacuum gauge! You'd be surprised...

Anyway, I shall try to find the light green / red stripe wire although
if you look at the MAP device, you see prongs labelled V G O and
I'll bet V means reference Voltage prong, G means ground prong and
O means output prong.

Translated to the PLUG, I will insert a pin into the O wire and attach
my positive VOM clamp to that with the negative clamp to the frame.

Pray for my MAP to be good! They want $240 new! Ha!
I'll call around the junk yards. We have several in Spokane.

There are many on the Internet.

Interesting thought - with the MAP unplugged, I should get a
code 31 from the ECM 'Check Engine" light - true!?

I hadn't thought of unplugging the O2 Sensor to see if that gives
a code 13.

You didn't answer as to what a bad MAP does to the car's
performance. Would it mimic a bad Fuel Pump symtoms?

ScheisseKopf

PS - Have you ever been into HAM Radio? My dad was Vice
President of Engineering at Hallicrafter's Radio back in the 50's
Chicago. His call letters were W9KPD - William 9 King Peter David...

I am having EXACTLY the same problem with my 1994 Metro XFi. It was about -5°F the morning of 12/15; I was cruising along about 60 MPH and the check engine light came on. Since then, when I press the accelerator, the engine stumbles until I find the sweet spot. The car will drive normally (although not accelerate normally) if I work the accelerator around the "sweet spot". Check the code, code 13. Replaced the O2 sensor, same problem. I have another ECM; I swapped ECM's and that is not the problem...

I am having EXACTLY the same problem with my 1994 Metro XFi.
It was about -5°F the morning of 12/15; I was cruising along about 60
MPH and the check engine light came on. Since then, when I press
the accelerator, the engine stumbles until I find the sweet spot. The
car will drive normally (although not accelerate normally) if I work the
accelerator around the "sweet spot". Check the code, code 13.
Replaced the O2 sensor, same problem. I have another ECM; I
swapped ECM's and that is not the problem...

Well, my problem is without a doubt now the MAP Sensor.

I replaced mine after having it out of the vehicle all night in the house
and now I get two codes... 31 and 32 Both codes = MAP Sensor!

31 first 3x followed by 32 3x and then repeat.

With the plug disconnected (car idles better!) the input voltage
(Green) is +2.75 to +3.0 volts (low?). The output (green/red) is
about +1.5 volt. This is NOT COUPLED - Just the plug...

I might as well drive the car for a while w/o the MAP sensor
connected since it returns zero volts!

With the plug connected to the MAP Sensor, the input voltage
is still +2.75 to +3 v and the output is zero - no voltage....

Dead MAP, huh?

I guess I need a used MAP - will call around Monday.
Saw one on EBay via some mail order place for $11 and $15.
Spaulding Wrecking here in Spokane doesn't have any.

They say any from 1989 thru 1994 will work in my '93.

Does that sound like it's true?

Schuck's just quoted $323 for a new MAP Sensor !
I could buy the whole engine for that price!
I dispise auto manufacturers and parts dealers!
Like wolves waiting for the kill.........

So...anyway - Never was the O2 Sensor! I was reading the
code wrong....

I guess ScheisseKopf is a good handle for me!

DoctorScheisseKopf

http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/6775/code13code141qj.th.jpg (http://img503.imageshack.us/my.php?image=code13code141qj.jpg)

cLICK ON IMAGE TO SEE LARGE SIZE AND PRINT

You wouldn't have one for the MAP Sensor, would you?

Are these something you've scanned or are they available from
some Internet site?

Thank you for posting them!

DoctorScheisseKopf

Does anyone know what the MAP sensor OEM part number is for a 1994 Metro XFi? The MAP sensor currently installed does not have a Denso or GM part number on it. Thanks.

Yet your reference voltage is lower than the
specified 4-5V. That means you should see 4-5V hose disconnected,
and 1-2V hose connected engine idling.

Now it would stand to reason that if your reference voltage is lower
than specified then your output would be equally lower too. 3-2.75
would translate to near zero. Does your meter read millivolts?

Suit yourself Doc.

1. Would all voltages on my car be low? Why would the reference
voltage to the MAP be low? Voltage Regulator?

2. If there were even 0.25 volt, the needle would have moved off zero
- I saw absolutely zip needle movement.

3. I have a digital meter and will have a look tomorrow. It is sooooo
damned cold out there! I live on a hill and it is usually windy out here,
so 15-20 °F with any wind is HELL!

4. Even if I got 0.1 volt, wouldn't YOU think the MAP was shot?
It has all the symptoms - no?

Monday I will try to find a used one.

5. Was Spaulding Wrecking correct '89 - '94 all take the same MAP?
Any way to know?

We have several yards that are of the "Pull-n Save" variety and if
'89-'94 work, then I have 10x the better chance.

If you have one, I'd pay....what??... $30 (or ??) for it....
my check is good. But I need one soon. Let me know.

Bill Frankart
Box 70
Fairfield, WA 99012-0070

DoctorBill (Feeling stupid...)

I have seen several different part numbers for 89-94 Metro MAP sensors as well as slighlty different configurations -- my thought here is that they are not all equivalent, but then again, I am not sure.

Don't feel stupid, this has been a great thread. It is unlikely to be the voltage regulator, you could check the voltages coming out of the ecu to see if other reference voltages are low, if so then you may have a voltage supply problem, if not it may be high resistance in the wire. Check the reference voltage at the ECU to see if it is the same (I know, it's no fun to get to for us old guys). I would agree it sounds like your MAP is dead. The good news is I am 95% sure the 89 to 94 should be the same and the swift should have the same one also. I would recommend taking the MAP with you to the boneyard and check for a matching part with matching #'s and you should be ready to go.

I was just on a GM parts website and, for a 1994 Metro, they list 3 different MAP sensors. They differentiate between automatic and manual transmissions and the XFi model.

"If you have 12V entering the ecu and your ecu is only sending out
3-2.75 then the ecu is faulty."

How much does a used ECM (ECU) cost from Wrecking Yards…?

This car of mine ran all summer like a top giving me an average of 47
mpg. If the unit is running low voltage it must be OK.

All components have a ± tolerance within which they can run well.
Maybe the case here. Also, it is 9 ° this morning.
Maybe this is all temp related since the car ran well UNTIL the temp
fell below the 20's F….

I tested the battery voltage at 9 °F (-14 °C) just now (7 AM Sunday)
and it was 12.5 volts, so it isn't a low bat voltage - but then again
that is w/o a load....

"There is a chance your MAP sensor is wasted as well. I can get
one for $10. Just quote me your part number and I'll locate you one."

The unit has this on it:
18590-60 DENSO JAPAN 5 V 100798-25.0

Let me know how to repay you....waf2034... at ...hotmail.com

"Again, if the MAP sensor is designed to run on 4-5V volts then
testing it with lower Voltage is pointless as it could give you false
readings."

So many inter-related things here one cannot know what the hell is
going on w/o a lot of time and equipment.
This looks like a situation where one has to throw money (parts) at
the car and hope for the best…..

DoctorBill

PS - Have you noticed how many visits this thread has had!?
We are now into PAGES on the forum...!
Must be a lot of people with this type of problem!

I have not joined the ranks of HAM radio. I do have a relative
that is...he even joined the 1/2 watt club. From Denver he talked to
someone in Australia using only a 1/2 watt!

That's so cool about your Father, I bet you have some interesting stories to tell about him.

Best Regards,
Blake

(I'm off to find you a MAP and a ECU.)

Yes, he had his radio setup in the attic. Had a telephone pole at the
two corners of our lot in Westchester, Illinios. Guess who he made to
climb the telephone poles and hook up his antennas? I even had to
put a 40' whip antenna on top of one of them. Had to lean back with
a linemans leather belt holding me to the pole.

And I have vertigo REAL BAD... scared me shitless! I still have bad
dreams of falling.

This was back in the days before transistors. His 'rig' had tubes the
size of quart bottles. Big plates in them and they glowed blue.
He'd pull 4-6 inch hot arcs off of his antenna with a screwdriver.
Melted (fused) the screwdriver tip. Science-Fiction types of
sounds used to come from his attic radio room. Loud humming
and buzzing that sounded POWERFUL! He had Racks with Air-Force
SAC Bomber radio sets in them. Hallicrafter's made Quick Reaction
Capability stuff for SAC. Electronic warefare. Nasty stuff.
My Dad hobknobed with General Curtis Lemay. Big Cigar chomping
guy.

He had hardwarecloth 10' wide going down the back of the house to
the ground - some kind of radio 'ground' I think it was. Everything
was heavily grounded and when those big Chicago Thunderstorms
came he would go up to his radio room and throw a HUGE damned
'knife switch' to ground all his antennas. The lightning scared the
crap out of me! He had one inch ground rods pounded WAY DOWN
into the ground and poured salt around them and water to make a
'good ground.' I know because I did the pounding with a
sledgehammer - I was 15 and skinny then.....

He talked to people all over the world in CQ language - radio talk that
EVERYONE understood.
I remember him talking about the 10, 20 and 30 meter bands.
He could "key" faster than greased lightning using an elaborate and
complex "bug" with counter weights and adjustment screws.

We moved from Chicago to California so he could open Hallicrafter's
West Coast Division. That lasted a couple of years. He resigned from
Hallicrafter's when the company politics and backstabbing got too bad
for him to endure. He hated butt kissing that one has to do to stay
on top in Industry (or anywhere!). Nothing changes...ancient stuff.

He learned transistors all by himself when they came out.
Then he designed several groundbreaking radios. He invented the
handheld microphone using a paper towel tube for his prototype.
I suspect that - like most inventions - several people invented the
handheld radio-microphone at the same time. But I remember when
he came home and told us what he'd made because his boss said
they needed something new to sell! This was 5 years after
Hallicrafter's when he was 58 and no-one would hire him being too old
and having made too much money..."You are much too qualified to
work here..." You have probably heard that line..... So he worked for
small companies in Santa Ana, California. Business died away due
to Tiawan competition... He was all set up for the 11 year sunspot
lull (or height?) when reception is at the Maximum when he died in a
car accident in 1980..... He missed it.

Anyway - it is windy here and a 'warm' front is coming in with a week of freezing rain.

Onward.... Just thought of something as I took my two teenagers to
the doctor with strep throats - when I tested the voltage on the MAP
plug, I used a ground on the body (a screw on the radiator).

Would the voltage be different had I used the ground on the plug
(center of plug) versus the body of the car? I will go out when the
wind stops howling and test the voltage using a DMM and only the
plug wires.

Hey, my friend, it is sure nice of you to spend any of your
time finding me a MAP and ECM !!!!!

No MAP's here in Spokane. Tried the only three places in town
except for the two "Pull-n-Save" places. Had to take my sick kids
into the Doctor and all cars here have a foot of snow on them in
the junk yards. Snow drifted around the cars, also. I know because
I went to one yard two weeks ago looking for a jack handle for my
wife's Geo Tracker jack. Couldn't see squat for all the snow piled up!
Just bought a new jack package from them for $5.

So, again -- Thank you so much! I hope maybe I can assist you in
some way someday.

DoctorBill

Doc,

I can imagine your Father's Attic Realm........
"Muhhahahahaha, Igor insert that cathode and get ready to flip that
switch." Seriously though, that earthing strap, 10' wide, my goodness I
can only imagine all the air-borne energy in your house.

Today I got totally hammered..I never made it to the breakers today.
Sorry for that! Tomorrow I will make it.

CU,
Blake

I hope you see this BEFORE you go to the 'yard.'

A lot has changed here! The temp has gone up to 34 °F (20 ° higher!).
The ice is melting and the wind has died - at least for this minute!
It is actually raining Liguid water!

The voltages have changed! I used both the DMM and the analog VOM
to measure the voltages to the MAP "Plug." I cut away some insulation
with my hobby razor knife.

...........Engine running..............Engine off
Input........4.91v............................4.92 v
Sensor.....0.11v............................0.12v

plug out engine off Input 5.0v ... Sensor 4.13v ... AT THE PLUG!

This is versus +4 - 4.5v and +1 - 1.5v several days ago at low temp.
with the plug out.

The vehicle started nicely and idled well. Didn't drive it as the car is
hemmed in with other cars now. People visiting.

So the temperature has had something to do with this....

I am sure the MAP is dead though.

I don't think the ECM is at all bad.

Sorry that this has happened.... It would seem Geo Metro electronics
are very temp sensitive. I just don't know HOW.

DoctorBill

Hmmm,

This is indeed intriquing. This leads me to believe one of the following-
1.) There is a thermistor inside the computer (not likely)
2.) Perhaps the reference voltage is influenced by the ECU coolant sensor.
3.) There is a cracked solder joint within the ECU that is affected by temperature.

I will conduct some testing upon my car using resistors across the ECU
temp sensor socket to see if the reference voltage changes.

I did find a MAP for you regardless. Let me know how to proceed. ( give
me a private message through this forum.)

Blake

OK - sent private message. First time I've done so, so I hope I did it right.

I wonder if the ECM never was able to warm up being attached to the
so called inside firewall. My engine requires a good 15 minutes to warm
up, BTW.... I was always going out 20 minutes early to start it up and
after 15 minutes (no kidding!), the temp needle was just coming off the
bottom of the dial. Very strange - or is that normal for Metros?

After warmed up, it worked fine, heated the inside windows, cab, etc,
just fine - but took forever to get there. This car had an Air
Conditioner in it, but the previous owner removed the belt and I had
just left it that way. An A/C on such a tiny engine is assinine to me!

It has that huge A/C Radiator on the left of the compartment just sitting
there useless. The automatic cooling fan behind the regular radiator
came on just once in the hottest part of the summer when I idled the
engine a long time.

All this to say that this engine might not heat up the firewall enough
to raise the ECM temp above ambient and if driving at 55 mph thru
15 °F air, the firewall may just stay low temp all the time.

DoctorBill

PS - Once I get the replacement MAP Sensor, I will get out my
DREMEL hobby tool and cut it open with the circular cutter to see what
the Hell is inside the thing! I used to make Radio Control Model
Airplanes, so I have a lot of such tools available.

Today I drove my '93 Geo Metro 30 miles into town just to see if the Fuel
Pump was going to fail. Remember, I have a bad MAP Sensor but may
also have a bad FP.

It functioned (55 mph) until I got into town and then just died 10 feet from
the gas pump (tank was near empty).

Was sure the Fuel Pump was the culprit. Filled the tank and it started
working again. Five miles later, same thing - engine died.
Would start and idle but applying ANY LOAD - first gear caused it to die.

Same senario over and over. Wait a few minutes and it ran for a couple
miles and did the same thing.

Finally was ready to call AAA when I decided to try something.

I disconnected the MAP Sensor and Bing! It ran. Not well, but it stopped
doing the stalling crap.

Got home that way going 40 - 45 mph, but it got me back the 30 miles
to home.

So - conclusion - still don't know if the Fuel Pump is going, but the
MAP is dead meat.

I hope I didn't run it super lean all the way home, but had no choice.

Didn't want to leave it somewhere to be vandalized. Happens all too
often around here - opportunists abound.

(BTW - gas mileage has dropped from 47 mpg down to 24 mpg!)

DoctorBill

What has happened to you?

Did I say something wrong....No replys to my messages.

I found a MAP Sensor in Spokane, but it has a different socket shape!

Almost all the same numbers, but different socket size.

mine.....18590-60?? 5v Denso 100798 - 25?0
used.....18590-50G0 5v Denso 100798-31 larger socket

In my despiration, I am tempted to try soldering wires to the male
tabs inside the MAP Sensor socket and pushing them into the female
socket on my car.

Damn!

DoctorBill

If you get the low map input voltage again I would also check it at the ecu if its good there check it at the TP sensor .The TP and Map share the same ref voltage.There is a junction point I would asume near the sensors hard to tell by the prints.Also you might want to disconnect one while testing the other since I would assume a short in either component could pull the ref voltage down. I had a problem in my 96 with a factory soldered junction coroding and giving me headlamp problems.
On a side note I think the resistor in your Map is a piezo type.
Unbe

I went to the local "Pull & Saves" - two of them - and hit the jackpot!
The weather here has broken and we are up to 40 °F and the
Pull-n-Save yards were a muddy mess to walk thru.

Found three MAP sensors (none from a '93 Metro Though) and was
smart enough to cut off the sockets (plugs) that were connected to
them. From a '91 Metro and a '94 Suzuki (the Metro like thing).

Also got ALL the sockets from the tail-lights (mine are corroded away),
a spark coil (never know when I'll need one), an intake temperature
sensor, some part with three hoses going into it (??) part number
18112-60B00 DENSO - click on picture - at D,2-3 on photo.

http://img419.imageshack.us/img419/1797/transmission17ij.th.jpg (http://img419.imageshack.us/my.php?image=transmission17ij.jpg)

Plus 13 wheel lug nuts, many assorted bolts, plastic dashboard parts,
two window crank levers, and a Steering wheel horn cover, plus
some hoses. All for under $19 !!

Get this! I took my old dead MAP Sensor and cut it open with
a hacksaw just behind the plug prongs, exposed the copper leads
going into the socket and soldered the leads from the other size
plug onto the appropriate tabs. Now I have a small adapter to go
from my Metro's MAP Plug to the other shaped MAP Plug.
Click on picture below - it is the center thing.

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3332/snsockets7mw.th.jpg (http://img525.imageshack.us/my.php?image=snsockets7mw.jpg)

Plugged it into my Metro's MAP Sensor socket and plugged the other
end into the '94 MAP Sensor from the Yard.

Bingo! The "Check Engine Light" went out! With the Diagnostic
fuse in place it flashes 12 - "No Failures" ...!

However, the engine runs but then dies. I pump the gas pedal to
keep it running, but it eventualy dies. Refuses to idle.....

I will get ahold of a pressure gauge and test the Fuel Pump line
pressure. That is about all that is left to do. Unless something
connected to the ECM controls the Fuel Pump and is stopping it,
I'll have to assume the Fuel Pump is going - 160,000 on the car.

DieInterim (Blake) has disappeared. Last I heard from him he had
gotten 'hammered.' I hope he didn't get too hammered and
got hurt. A Five day hangover is bad.....

DoctorBill

yamee

Good Post

Hi Dr Bill,

Can you tell me if the sensors or ECM got damaged after we had our car involved in a flood, the Module never got wet but the whole engine compartment did and we got stuck in a gutter and had it idling for two hours till we could get it out but it ran hot then for the first time?
Our mechanic has stripped the engine and reported now its dried out it has no mechanical problems.

This overheating blew a seal when it overheated, from to much heat he reported as the O Ring was soft and flattened.

Do the resistance values of the immersed senders send false messages to the ECM and shut down possibly the cooling fans or something else?
The car is a 2000 Mitsubishi diamante V3.5 ran sweet as a nut before.

Cleanair.