Yes, I looked first!

Okay, I looked at all the threads for fuel pump stuff, couldn't find an answer. My blazer (my baby) won't start, fuel pump will not prime. My dad told us to look at the fuse in the engine compartment, well, we can't find one. As he lives in Michigan and I live in Alaska, it's kinda hard for him to show me.
Where is it? We also found there is no power to the pump in the wiring to it (the pump).
I tell you, sometimes I wonder if it's worth it, last year replaced blown motor, have had many problems with the abs sensors, heater is just, well, at least it works! Now tranny vibrates when driving in overdrive, when it tries to shift into 4th. And of course now it won't get fuel.
Any help will be GREATLY appreciated. :confused:

I'd like to welcome you to Automotive Forums first, and thank you for doing a search first.

From the sounds of it I think that your fuel pump relay is probably gone. These don't burn out as often as the fuel pumps do, but they do burn out. It's about a 1 min job, so that shouldn't be to bad up there.

I wish that I could tell you where it's at, but I really don't know.

Knowing the year of your truck will help people to answer your question.

From the sounds of it your truck has some issues, but you've replaced the expensive parts already. Your transmission might be a big bill though.
I kinda think that unless it's falling apart you should just keep it. Replacing just about every part with a re-built will still cost way less than a 1 year lease, and you own your truck.

welcome kat. and yes, it is worth it... what moter we talken about here? and what year? also the 8th vin charicter on the truck will be helpful... as overboard stated it is rare that relays die, but it does happen, and if youve checked for power to the pump (good man) then it is PROBIBLY the relay or fuse, one final check (aside from switching the relay) for the relay is to replace it, or there is a red wire floating somewhere under your hood (by red, i mean its either red or black lol) that is ment to be a jumper, jump it to the battery and listen for a pump, no sound, pump is dead, but first we check under the dash/ the pannel on the drivers side, depending on the year, there is a fuse block, chech the ecm fuse, and if there is one a fuel pump (check them all as sometimes engeneers hook up weird shit on one circut) and a relay center under the hood, its a black box,, between the firewall and the headlights right there in sight, either drivers side or passengers side depending on year... check all fuses in there and replace the relay if you get pump action from using the jumper....

welcome kat. and yes, it is worth it... what moter we talken about here? and what year? also the 8th vin charicter on the truck will be helpful... as overboard stated it is rare that relays die, but it does happen, and if youve checked for power to the pump (good man) then it is PROBIBLY the relay or fuse, one final check (aside from switching the relay) for the relay is to replace it, or there is a red wire floating somewhere under your hood (by red, i mean its either red or black lol) that is ment to be a jumper, jump it to the battery and listen for a pump, no sound, pump is dead, but first we check under the dash/ the pannel on the drivers side, depending on the year, there is a fuse block, chech the ecm fuse, and if there is one a fuel pump (check them all as sometimes engeneers hook up weird shit on one circut) and a relay center under the hood, its a black box,, between the firewall and the headlights right there in sight, either drivers side or passengers side depending on year... check all fuses in there and replace the relay if you get pump action from using the jumper....
Okay, here goes: motor 4.3 vortec "w". 1993. There is power in to the relay, but no power out. I tried to find the fuse first, but no luck. I have no cover on my fuse panel, and the ones that have letters under them none of them say anything like fuel. My dad said it was under the hood, by the battery, but I didn't see it. The ecmb fuse is fine. So are all the others. Where the relay is there are 2 of them. I will try to jump it to the battery, will I hear it if it primes? If I don't hear it does that mean I have to replace (oh horror) the sending unit?
And it's good woman, by the way.
Thanks for the help

Don't look for power going out.
Hook up the test light to a power suplyy, and look for 1 of the conections going to ground. The power has to traven through the fuel pump to a ground for the fuel pump to work

I'd like to welcome you to Automotive Forums first, and thank you for doing a search first.

From the sounds of it I think that your fuel pump relay is probably gone. These don't burn out as often as the fuel pumps do, but they do burn out. It's about a 1 min job, so that shouldn't be to bad up there.

I wish that I could tell you where it's at, but I really don't know.

Knowing the year of your truck will help people to answer your question.

From the sounds of it your truck has some issues, but you've replaced the expensive parts already. Your transmission might be a big bill though.
I kinda think that unless it's falling apart you should just keep it. Replacing just about every part with a re-built will still cost way less than a 1 year lease, and you own your truck.
Thanks, I am going to try jumping the relay to see which one it is. Yeah, my truck does have it's issues, but hey, I love it anyway, no one is perfect right? And btw, I already have a tranny, saved it from the jimmy that we took the motor from! I keep wishing I would win the lottery (well, or something, since there is no lottery in Alaska) so that I could take my truck to the best place and say "I want EVERYTHING fixed to the original condition, and then some". Oh, wouldn't that be great. I wouldn't even consider buying something brand new, just fix the old girl up!!
Anyways, thanks for the help, I will let you guys (or girls) know if I get it figured out.

Don't look for power going out.
Hook up the test light to a power suplyy, and look for 1 of the conections going to ground. The power has to traven through the fuel pump to a ground for the fuel pump to work
Ohhhhh... makes sense. I will do that. It's getting dark out tho and I don't have a garage, so I'm gonna have to wait for someone to get home and hold the flashlight in this -12 degrees. BBBBRRRR

It's a very comon mistake that I've made about 400 times.

Good Luck

first off sorry, i assumed guy, (good woman), sorry for a misunderstanding, do not jump the relay, there is a test wire, jump that, and if there are two relays then switch them, doubtful both went bad at the same time, if you have power to the relay but not past it, then it probibly is a relay, cheap part, the fuse pannel under the hood is where the relay is...and as a side note ebcm is electronic break control unit, the ebcm controls your ABS stuff, the one i was talking about says ecm or pcm, depending on if you have a powertrain control modual, or emmishon control modual/unit

DM, here's a possibly related quest ion that you might know the answer to.

Does the S10 have a sensor that killes the fuel pump during a roll over like the mustang has?

I know that some cars do, and these sometimes get tripped over rough roads. Then you just have to find the button and press it.

It would be nice if katinak's problem was that eay to fix

No rollover switch here.

Thanks DM.
It's a good thing to know

first off sorry, i assumed guy, (good woman), sorry for a misunderstanding, do not jump the relay, there is a test wire, jump that, and if there are two relays then switch them, doubtful both went bad at the same time, if you have power to the relay but not past it, then it probibly is a relay, cheap part, the fuse pannel under the hood is where the relay is...and as a side note ebcm is electronic break control unit, the ebcm controls your ABS stuff, the one i was talking about says ecm or pcm, depending on if you have a powertrain control modual, or emmishon control modual/unit
No prob. Where is the test wire? I have no ecm or pcm on my fuse panel. What's the diff between the two, and how do I find out? Are you saying to do one or the other, or both? (jump the test wire/switch the relays) are both of the black boxes for the fuel pump? I feel like such a dummy, I know more than most, but don't know enough apparently.

Poop, fuse panel under the hood? Where?

lol, lets just forget the test wire, just switch the two relays, thats suffecent for this test, no, only one black box (relay) is for the fuel pump, i beleve the other is a horn relay, an ecm (what you have) controls emisons from the moter, a pcm controls the transmission and emison in the same unit, obp no, chevy doesnt have a fuel pump safty shutoff switch, thats a ford thing, and all fords are equiped with it, not just the ponys, in fact, i didnt say this, but to have some fun when the bar closes, smack a ford on the fender that the gas door is on, smack it good n' hard, if your lucky, youll get to watch a pissed off patron decide if calling a wrecker for his broke ford is a good idea or not...

underhood fuse pannel is the relay pannel, you found it already i though

asid from the fuel thing my truck was vibrating at high r.p.m it drove me nuts trying to figure it out.I finally got it the drive shaft got dinged and out of ballance

lol, lets just forget the test wire, just switch the two relays, thats suffecent for this test, no, only one black box (relay) is for the fuel pump, i beleve the other is a horn relay, an ecm (what you have) controls emisons from the moter, a pcm controls the transmission and emison in the same unit, obp no, chevy doesnt have a fuel pump safty shutoff switch, thats a ford thing, and all fords are equiped with it, not just the ponys, in fact, i didnt say this, but to have some fun when the bar closes, smack a ford on the fender that the gas door is on, smack it good n' hard, if your lucky, youll get to watch a pissed off patron decide if calling a wrecker for his broke ford is a good idea or not...
Switched the relays, still didn't work. the horn still worked with both relays unplugged, so neither one can be for the horn. There are 2 grounds to the sending unit and theres 2 wires besides those (one purple one fat grey) and with both relays unplugged the fuel gauge works also. My hubby who is helping me in this frigid weather, is a ford man, but he says ha ha anyway. All vehicles have their tempertantrums, I don't care what kind they are.

All vehicles have their tempertantrums, I don't care what kind they are.


I agree with this 200%

And DM, You dont't go banging on any fenders at the bar do you? :evillol:

ok the two relays behind the master cylinder are, looking at them from the grille, the variable tuning control relay(left) and the fuel pump relay(right) respectively. the test prime connector is near teh blower motor. the horn relay is in the cab ;). anyway to test the fuel pump relay put a test light across terminals 87 and 30, they shoudl be labeled somewhere on the relay. turn the key forward, if the test light lights up then the power to the pump and the pump ground are good. to test the signal use the test light in the same manner on the other two terminals. if it lights up again then its nothing to do with the relay and the pump is your problem. you can take a nice rubber hammer/mallet and smack the bottom of the tank with someone trying to start the truck, that works sometimes.

DM you can't even legally drink yet can you, unles MI laws are differnt than CO laws.

Why not post pictures along with the explainations?

It would probably help. Unfortunately, I cannot help because I don't have that year of truck, but I always found pictures to be a huge help !!!

Just my :2cents:

DM you can't even legally drink yet can you, unles MI laws are differnt than CO laws.
no, but when me n' my ex broke up last march (was goin on 4 years and we was both still in high school) i took it hard and started hangen out with my cousin and his buddies, and goin to the bar with them (can get in at 18, cant drink) but if they are given money and they forget a beer on our table no one says anything....
And DM, You dont't go banging on any fenders at the bar do you? :evillol:
no, i havn't, but my cousin is the one who showed me the trick...

ok the two relays behind the master cylinder are, looking at them from the grille, the variable tuning control relay(left) and the fuel pump relay(right) respectively. the test prime connector is near teh blower motor. the horn relay is in the cab ;). anyway to test the fuel pump relay put a test light across terminals 87 and 30, they shoudl be labeled somewhere on the relay. turn the key forward, if the test light lights up then the power to the pump and the pump ground are good. to test the signal use the test light in the same manner on the other two terminals. if it lights up again then its nothing to do with the relay and the pump is your problem. you can take a nice rubber hammer/mallet and smack the bottom of the tank with someone trying to start the truck, that works sometimes.
Ok, aside from feeling like pulling my hair out, I will try this. I am going to buy a new fuel filter tho. My neighbor let me put my truck in his garage overnite, he says it probably has a chunk of ice in there the size of the Chena River. Maybe... But we were going crazy trying to figure out how to test the relay first. What's the variable tuning control relay for, do I need to test both? Auto parts said relays were 17 $, so maybe I will just buy them anyways when i get my filter.
Thanks for all the help, I will let you all know what transpires (maybe I will go bald after all LOL) My hubby says he wants to sell it and get me something we can actually work on, I still don't want to give it up tho.

BTW: Tried the hammer thing, but with the sheild over the tank, didn't know if that hindered our efforts. And the mystery continues...

the tuning valve is in the center of your intake and when you romp on the gas it opens the intake up into a single plane. i wouldnt worry about that relay at all. ice in the fuel filter is very possible.