no one has fixed this????

ive searched online for this problem and have found it everywhere. but i cant find anywhere that has the solution. its a 94 s10 blazer 4.3 cpi ive had it for 5 yrs and ive replaced just about everything you can replace on it. it runs awesome. 205,000 miles and it runs better than when i bought it with 60,000 miles. but then it happened... last winter it started, around 40 degrees or below, if the truck sits for about 5 hrs, it wont start. it cranks like its flooded, then when finally starting, it runs like really rich for a minute, then its fine. the rest of the day it will start fine. ive been tryin to fix this since last winter, its hard to try to troubleshoot in the summer becuz again, it only acts up in the winter. if anyone at all can tell me what fixes this problem, ill be in debt to you forever. ive changed the injector, egr, coil, spark plugs fuel filter pump, everything that you would think could cause this problem, ive tried it. but im runnin out of money and i know this is a common problem and someone somewhere has had to have fixed it. please help!?!?!?!?

When you did the injector, did you do the nut kit as well?

When you did the injector, did you do the nut kit as well? im not sure what you mean by the nut kit. do you mean the inlet outlet fuel lines ? if thats what you mean, then yes, i replaced those because one was cracked. ive actually replaced the injector 3 times, one of which only troubleshooting

im not sure what you mean by the nut kit. do you mean the inlet outlet fuel lines ? if thats what you mean, then yes, i replaced those because one was cracked. ive actually replaced the injector 3 times, one of which only troubleshootingremember...... it only has trouble if its below a certain temperature

maby it is getting flooded... got a map sencer?

maby it is getting flooded... got a map sencer? yea, thats what i was gonna try. but i got a feelin it isnt gonna do any good

im not sure what you mean by the nut kit. do you mean the inlet outlet fuel lines ? if thats what you mean, then yes, i replaced those because one was cracked. ive actually replaced the injector 3 times, one of which only troubleshooting

Yup, that is what is called the nut kit (strange name for what it is I know). The only thing I could think of that is tempurature related would be the Air temp sensor which is located in the rubber duct between the upper plenum and air cleaner assembly. Might be worth cleaning the tip on this sensor.

Yup, that is what is called the nut kit (strange name for what it is I know). The only thing I could think of that is tempurature related would be the Air temp sensor which is located in the rubber duct between the upper plenum and air cleaner assembly. Might be worth cleaning the tip on this sensor.you mean that little plug that plugs into the bottom of it? i swear if that is the problem im gonna kick my own butt

Yup, that is what is called the nut kit (strange name for what it is I know). The only thing I could think of that is tempurature related would be the Air temp sensor which is located in the rubber duct between the upper plenum and air cleaner assembly. Might be worth cleaning the tip on this sensor.yeah i will clean it, never thought that could cause such a drastic problem. but would that really make it start as if it is flooded?

I would look at the ETC and see if it goes out of spec when the temp gets cold..this will cause your concern
At 40 degrees the sensor resistance should be 7280 ohms
..if it is much higher (9000-10000 ohms, its reading to cold)

Next time it does it, try using a little starting fluid to see if it will start. There is a common issue of hard cold weather starts caused by low fuel pressure as a result of the battery voltage (battery power is lower in cold weather) dropping while attempting to start. Basically, these engine are very anal about the amount of fuel pressure they need. If your fuel pressure is at the bottom of the spec range, the voltage drop caused by the starter won't let the fuel pump get enough power to supply the correct pressure. This issue can be caused by a weak pump, a partially clogged fuel filter, or a weak battery.

I would look at the ETC and see if it goes out of spec when the temp gets cold..this will cause your concern
At 40 degrees the sensor resistance should be 7280 ohms
..if it is much higher (9000-10000 ohms, its reading to cold)hi, no ones ever told me this before, can you tell me how to do it?

Next time it does it, try using a little starting fluid to see if it will start. There is a common issue of hard cold weather starts caused by low fuel pressure as a result of the battery voltage (battery power is lower in cold weather) dropping while attempting to start. Basically, these engine are very anal about the amount of fuel pressure they need. If your fuel pressure is at the bottom of the spec range, the voltage drop caused by the starter won't let the fuel pump get enough power to supply the correct pressure. This issue can be caused by a weak pump, a partially clogged fuel filter, or a weak battery.ive tried starting fluid and it doesnt help and the pressure at the back of the plenum is fine, im a 12 volt technician, meaning i install alarms remote starters and really loud stereo systems in cars, ive been doing it for around 8 years, i have a big loud stereo system in my blazer that im not even into anymore (weird how you lose intrest) but anyway, the voltage was the 1st thing i checked, and the voltage is fine at both of my batteries, i even went as far as buyin a new rear battery last winter, thinkin that maybe it was junk and was foolin with my front battery but nothin helped. ill post again cuz i got some more clues.....

I would look at the ETC and see if it goes out of spec when the temp gets cold..this will cause your concern
At 40 degrees the sensor resistance should be 7280 ohms
..if it is much higher (9000-10000 ohms, its reading to cold) here is what i have planned, saturday morning i was going to take the plenum off and see if there was any gas in it, only because, when my inlet/outlet lines that go into the injector cracked, it started this way, except it did it regardless of the temp. hence the diagnosis of "its getting flooded" i mean it is almost the exact same problem, it takes the same amount of time to start, sounds the same and runs the same for the 1st few seconds its running. once its runnin tho, it runs perfect. i would say its being flooded again somehow...but only when its cold????? i swear the problems i wouldnt be suprised if its haunted. please keep helping me think!!!!! check this out.... over the summer the sylinoid on my starter was junk, only did that click clik thing, but only sometimes. im sure you know what i mean. so, being a sunday, i had to go to auto-zone to get a new one, cuz i was sick of it. so i bring the starter in for a core return and the kid tests it and tells me the starter is fine, its my battery thats the problem. i said its not my battery. so blah blah, he says to me.... "ive been working on cars for over a year i think i know what im talkin about." so im like, whatever dude, just gimmie a starter will ya? hmmm, my starter works fine. this is the type of ppl i have to deal with around here.

here is what i have planned, saturday morning i was going to take the plenum off and see if there was any gas in it, only because, when my inlet/outlet lines that go into the injector cracked, it started this way, except it did it regardless of the temp. hence the diagnosis of "its getting flooded" i mean it is almost the exact same problem, it takes the same amount of time to start, sounds the same and runs the same for the 1st few seconds its running. once its runnin tho, it runs perfect. i would say its being flooded again somehow...but only when its cold????? i swear the problems i wouldnt be suprised if its haunted. please keep helping me think!!!!! check this out.... over the summer the sylinoid on my starter was junk, only did that click clik thing, but only sometimes. im sure you know what i mean. so, being a sunday, i had to go to auto-zone to get a new one, cuz i was sick of it. so i bring the starter in for a core return and the kid tests it and tells me the starter is fine, its my battery thats the problem. i said its not my battery. so blah blah, he says to me.... "ive been working on cars for over a year i think i know what im talkin about." so im like, whatever dude, just gimmie a starter will ya? hmmm, my starter works fine. this is the type of ppl i have to deal with around here.
I know this may sound crazy, but have you considered, water in your fuel lines or tank. Nearly all gas stations get water in the tank, not to mention the tank will form condensation due to temperture changes. It happened to my S10 ZR2 4x4. I have leraned to keep my fuel tank full
now. After removing the tank and draining the fuel lines, I haven't had that problem ever again. Just thought I'd try to help you with this problem. I hope it helps you with that problem. Southern Comfort

2 things I would look at. Frozen injectors (staying open too long at start since they're so cold, can you warm the truck in a garage overnight to see if it starts normally?)

Ignition module under the cap..(not the rotor but the actual ignition module)

I know this may sound crazy, but have you considered, water in your fuel lines or tank. Nearly all gas stations get water in the tank, not to mention the tank will form condensation due to temperture changes. It happened to my S10 ZR2 4x4. I have leraned to keep my fuel tank full
now. After removing the tank and draining the fuel lines, I haven't had that problem ever again. Just thought I'd try to help you with this problem. I hope it helps you with that problem. Southern Comfort thanks buddy, its one of the 1st things i thought of but alas.....it didnt make a different. im actually about to leave for work and im gonna try the map sensor, i wont know untill tomorrow morning if it worked or not, if that doesnt work im goin to try the ect and if that doesnt work, then im lost. everything that has to do with fuel is new in this truck, also, everything that has to do with spark is new, but i do have another ecm from my old 94 s10 lt. does anyone think it would be worth a shot to try that if the 2 sensors dont work??

2 things I would look at. Frozen injectors (staying open too long at start since they're so cold, can you warm the truck in a garage overnight to see if it starts normally?)

Ignition module under the cap..(not the rotor but the actual ignition module) the ignition module is new, and yes if i keep the truck in the garage it will start fine, but my injector is only 7 months old and it is the second one ive put in.

the ignition module is new, and yes if i keep the truck in the garage it will start fine, but my injector is only 7 months old and it is the second one ive put in. plus i had this problem with my old injector, reason being why i replaced it, but it didnt work.

Is your EGR operating properly? Ie good flow (no carbon chunks), good seal, etc?

Is your EGR operating properly? Ie good flow (no carbon chunks), good seal, etc? egr valve is new, i also just replaced the map sensor last night, but that didnt fix it. i swear its somehow getting flooded, but it makes no sense....gettin flooded only in the cold. i tried to replace the ect sensor also last night(mind you it was like 20 degrees out) but the nut is like brass or somethin, and one side started to get rounded so i just left it alone. im gonna havta take a bunch of stuff off and get it from the bottom. here are the things ive replaced to try to fix this problem..... injector, egr valve, pcv valve, map sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, sending unit, fuel pump relays, the sensor that goes into the rubber tube on the air intake thing (sorry, its really early, haha) i cant even remember, i have a list of stuff ive replaced on my truck downstairs cuz its imposible to remember what ive replaced, if you guys only knew, youd wonder why i still keep my truck. i need to take off the plenum and see if there is gas in it. thats how i figured out the problem when my inlet return lines were leaking, it did the same thing but all the time. when i put in the fuel filter i bent one end of the filter and im gonna replace that again in the hopes that maybe thats the problem, but i doubt it, seeins how so many other ppl have this problem. im not buyin a new truck. ive fixed everything on my truck and im not about to give up now. i just cant beleive that of all the listings of this problem online, no one has ever found a cure.

the ignition module is new, and yes if i keep the truck in the garage it will start fine, but my injector is only 7 months old and it is the second one ive put in.

Sounds like a sticky poppet nozzle(S). Whats happening is because it's getting so cold that one (or more) of them is not opening properly even under initial pressure. They eventually all open up and solve the problem.

2 Things I would do. 1st, run some seafoam through the system. (1/2 through the brake booster hose, 1/2 in the gas tank). Once that tank of gas is gone, then drop in some gasoline moisture removal with your next tank.

Sounds like a sticky poppet nozzle(S). Whats happening is because it's getting so cold that one (or more) of them is not opening properly even under initial pressure. They eventually all open up and solve the problem.

2 Things I would do. 1st, run some seafoam through the system. (1/2 through the brake booster hose, 1/2 in the gas tank). Once that tank of gas is gone, then drop in some gasoline moisture removal with your next tank. ok, that sound fun... but i never heard of seafoam, and i dont get the brake booster hose part. if the nozzle or nozzles were sticking.... how come when i finally get it started it runs as if it has too much gas for a few seconds?

I'd recommend taking out and cleaning every sensor attached to your intake plenum with paper towel + brake cleaner, as well as their gaskets. If the gaskets look wrinkled/cracked replace em. There's one in particular I'm thinking of (the one with the spring loaded plunger at the top of the plenum) but I can't recall its name. The TPS you can prolly not bother with. Then try changing your air filter.

spring loaded plunger.....doesnt sound familiar, but ill look.this might be crazy but.... i stuck a thing under my gas pedal. im almost convinced that its getting flooded, but there is nothing leaking inside. so just for the heck of it i stuck a quart of transmission fluid under the gas pedal. ive become so desperate that im trying EVERYTHING!

Have you checked your fuel pressure regulator? If the pressure is to high it will overcome the poppit vavle in your injectors and cause flooding. In colder temps. gas will not evaporate as fast as warmer weather making it harder to start.

mmmmm... Block heaters are a wonderous thing.

Up here in Canada, a car without a block heater is like a fish without water. Never had a problem parked for days in sub zero temps, blizzards, etc. COld wet, harsh, plug the block heater in, 1hr later, purrign like a kitten.

~XPC

Block heater
Oil pan heater
Battery blanket

Set it on a timer to come on 3 hours before you start it.

it could be your fuel regulator is bad

i dont have a block heater.also my injector is new and the regulator is on the injector. this morning i tested the fuel pressure and it was fine, but heres what happened..... i turned the key on to see the fuel pressure, then i cranked it to see if it dropped or whatever, but it was fine. when i turn the key on the pump goes on for the 2 seconds, but....i left the key on for like 30 seconds, when i cranked it, it started right up. so at least maybe i found a way to get it started. but heres the other part...... when i shut the truck down, the fuel pump stayed on. i mean it stayed on like forever and wouldnt shut off, but once the car is warmed up, it shuts off when its supposed to. if i put the fuel gauge on the truck tonight, should it still be within spec tomorrow morning?