Realistic Side Markers

This is one of those little details that's usually left off most models because they're either too difficult to BMF, paint or it is just all together overlooked.

Almost all cars have this sort of side marker light and they can be found on very early cars such as the Miura shown here, all the way up to more modern Diablo's (and not just Lamborghini specific)

This is the little bugger I'm talking about!

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/6446/miura6pf.jpg

Most of the time they come molded on the body. Every now and then you will get proper clear parts but, you still have to paint them and the results aren't very realistic looking. You also are left with no chrome trim ring around them.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/217/sm22jn.jpg

What I've used here is Detail Master's engine detail set, 5 minute clear epoxy and Tamiya clear orange. On the Photoetched set we'll only use the parts circled.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2697/dmed2fr.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2031/epoxy4la.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2026/x268zw.jpg

The process is pretty straightforward. You mix up a small amount of the epoxy, then add little by little, a few drops of the clear orange (or whatever color you need). Once it's mixed thoroughly it will look a little milky and bubbly. After setting up this will disappear and become clear.

The key hear is to work fast as the epoxy sets up rather quick. You could use a slower setting epoxy, it's just that I'm the kinda guy that wanted it finished "TWO DAYS AGO".

Use a toothpick or needle to transfer the epoxy mixture to the surface of the photoetched part. Work your first application around the edge and then fill in the center. You can now add additional mixture to build up the height of the epoxy until you like the way it looks and seems correct for the scale. If there are any bubbles in the epoxy, try to quickly work them out with a needle or by blowing on the piece.

When you're satisfied with the look, set them aside to cure completely. Usually 24 hours.

What you will be left with is a nicely domed light with awesome relectivity!

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/1230/sm8av.jpg

By using the photoetched top trim with the raised dot in the center, it gives you the appearance of a bulb inside the side marker.

Once you cut the part from the tree, the thickness of the photoetched part will look like a perfect chrome trim ring found on the full size part!

Don't limit yourself to the parts listed here. There are literally thousands of other photoetched shapes and sizes. You may have one that works better for you!

Of course, if you have a good definition line around a "molded in" light, the same technique can be used over Bare Metal Foil.

Here I used it on the lights of my P51 model.

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/8884/dscf09145jl.jpg

Finally, I've used this to replicate a baked enamel look on photoetched emblems and even right over kit decals where a high gloss and VERY DURABLE finish was needed!

Here over the emblem decal of my Volvo kit.

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8503/dscf09206we.jpg

EDIT: Here are Detail Master's knock-off photoetched fret. These can be used also and have a lot more parts! More bang for the buck! It's all about the $$$. . . :lol:

http://img455.imageshack.us/img455/4517/dmko2sb.jpg
(Note: The centers of the first several parts here have been colored black and are not etched through. They are just like the parts off to the right.)

Wow, that is an excellent idea, I didn't know you could mix Tamiya clear in with the epoxy, I've used epoxy for gauges before so they look like they have a glass lens but never tried mixing the colour in with it, great tip I'll be using that in the future, cheers.

Very cool tip. I will be using this myself in the future. Thanks......

I mention doing the same on my how to on painting photo etch padges.....another revelation that blew by so many.....

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=1657580#post1657580

I guess it kind of proves how few bother to read the tutorials most of us take time to write :disappoin

What a great idea!! Your a genious. :iceslolan

Great idea! Thanks!

Hey, thanks for the comments guys! Glad it helps out in any way, shape or form!

While the concept of tinting resins and epoxies is an old one, the tints sold specifically for them are usually pretty expensive. I've worked with a lot of different stone in my field/art and started using alternatives for "FILLS" when I ran out of a certain tints.

I've used many brands of aqueous or "water based" paints and never had any problems with them affecting the base chemicals. You do want to stay away from solvent-based paints as they will, usually in the form of not completely curing or NEVER curing . . . lol The clear hobby paints work great!

Also, when I've needed a part cast in resin for small details, I'll throw in a little bit of the matching color that was used to paint the main piece the cast parts will attach to and voila!!! No painting required!

Cool, thanks Chuck. Do you find that brand of epoxy stays clear? I tried way back in my aircraft modeling days and the clear epoxy always would yellow right away, never found a brand that stayed so clear.

nice idea!!

The parts here were made 5 to 10 years ago and have yet to yellow, including the Volvo grille.

The tinting will usually hide any yellowing but, for the straight clear I try to look for an epoxy that says "Ultra Clear" or "Super Clear" on the label.

I've also use Smooth On's "Crystal Clear" casting resin and the resin that's specificall marketed for use on bar tops and tables (can't remember the name of that one though). Again, none have yet to yellow

Here they are next to a #11 and I think due to the size, the yellowing is kept to a minimum.

http://img447.imageshack.us/img447/8654/size0tj.jpg
If any of you are wondering, the black piece shown here is a Lambo bull logo decal (for wheel centers) taken from an Enthusiast kit. I'm using it here for an eventual key chain for a Countach kit. Also note the "Chrome Trim" appearance around the tinted part!


Cool, thanks Chuck. Do you find that brand of epoxy stays clear? I tried way back in my aircraft modeling days and the clear epoxy always would yellow right away, never found a brand that stayed so clear.

does it have to be something photo-etched? can we use say a circular peice of styrene painted silver or BMF'd?

does it have to be something photo-etched? can we use say a circular peice of styrene painted silver or BMF'd?

Yes the same technique will work over silver paint or bmf with the same result, I've been doing it on my pre-2001 Impreza's side markers for a while now with silver paint as the base.

Can be anything ya want!!! :bigthumb:

Ingenuity is a modelers best friend! :thinkerg: If it works for you, that's the only thing that counts!

does it have to be something photo-etched? can we use say a circular peice of styrene painted silver or BMF'd?

Hmmm Freakray. . didn't see any reference to epoxy in your tutorial which, I did read quite a while ago. Nice Job!!! Very clear and concise!

Now that I look over the responses, I see that p9o1r1sche mentioned it further down the thread. . . Never saw that though. . . :dunno:

Don't take it so hard, dude. Once people find their way around the forum, they'll usually read through the stuff submitted and just not comment on it . . . Ya just gotta throw these little tips and tech's out there and hope that someone can benefit from your experience.

Also, like ya said "It's up to you whether you develop the technique more". Couldn't agree with you more there and hopefully if someone does just that, they will take the time to share with the rest of us! :thumbsup:


I mention doing the same on my how to on painting photo etch padges.....another revelation that blew by so many.....

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=1657580#post1657580

I guess it kind of proves how few bother to read the tutorials most of us take time to write :disappoin