Have Fuel and Spark, But No Start???

I finally took everything back apart to test and see if I had both fuel and spark and I have determined that I have both, although the car still will not start, it just cranks. The problem arose after I did both head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets. I dont see how I could have messed with any of the ignition timing or fuel timing by doing this job. All connectors are connected correctly and I have spark and fuel. The last thing I still need to test is that I have compression, but I need to get my hands on a compression tester. When I crank it, it sounds like a normal car cranking and then it will let out a puff noise like are escaping from somewhere every couple of cranks. If compression is ok, does anyone else have any ideas? Is there a way to test if the ignition timing is correct and if the injectors are firing at the right time? Initially I thought I may have put on the injector plugs on the wrong injectors but they are correct also. Please help if you have any tips/suggestions.

You have fuel how? Do the injectors pulse? You need to trace down this ound first. 3.1 I assume? Did you keep the pusrods in order they are different lengths!!

I have fuel psi at the schrader valve and I removed the fuel rails with the injectors still in them and cranked it over and each injector sprayed. It is the 3.1. I knew the pushrods were different lengths and I am almost positive I have them in the right order. If the compression test reads low I think that will be the problem. At that point I will be pulling off the valve covers and checking it out. If I got those backwards do you think the valves got smacked by the piston? I did not hear any metal on metal noise the first time I cranked it. Time will tell, I am doing the compression test this afternoon. I also have spark at every plug. If the above methods dont solve the issue, all I can assume is that;
1. the ignition firing order is out of order, but I followed the firing order diagram so I think that is unlikely.
2.the passlock system is acting up, but I dont think that is the case either because the light does not blink or stay lit when I am cranking it and it never had the passlock problem before.

UPDATE....
I did the compression test and here are the results:
One: 147 psi
Two: 140 psi
Three: 155 psi
Four: 145 psi
Five: 155 psi
Six: 160 psi
Those results seemed pretty good to me and I dont feel that the pushrods could be reversed otherwise the numbers would be different. Wouldnt the numbers be way off if they the pushrods were reversed? I still have spark and fuel but it just wont start. I did not mess with the timing chain so I could not have messed up the cam timing. Is there a way to determine if I have good enough spark? It seems like it is kind of weak but I do not know how to measure that. How can I determine/test the ignition timing? I feel like it is just something stupid that I may be overlooking. Does anyone have a picture or know where I can find a picture of the engine bay? I have this bad feeling that the spark plug wiring diagram/firing order is off, but I followed the diagram in the Chilton manual. Any other ideas?

Also, is there any way to determine if the injectors are firing at the correct time and if the ignition is firing at the correct time? It seems to me that one of these things is a fault...

Another Update!!!

I did a fuel psi check today because a friend thought that it sounded like I did not have enough fuel psi. Well he was wrong; I have over 40psi at the rail so that definitely is not the problem. I also replaced the maf sensor with a known good one and that did not fix anything. I dont get this at all......I have fuel, spark, and compression but yet still no turning over. Does anyone else have any ideas???? These are the only things I can figure:
1. Ignition is firing at the wrong time
2. Fuel injectors are firing at wrong time
3. Valves are opening at wrong time

What are some ways to test the first two ideas???
Also, if I had the pushrods backwards, would I still get the compression I got? If so, maybe they are in backwards and are not opening as wide as they should be or something along those lines.... Please give me your input...

Do these cars have ignition modules?

Yes under the coils. Get it on a scanner and see if you have cranking rpms, not even a sputter? spray carb cleaner into the throttle body see if it kicks.

I am so pissed!!! I will never buy another Haynes manual. I followed their firing order and it was completely off....I just happened to find the piece of paper where the diagram of the wires was before I initially removed them and I followed that, and bam! it started right up. What a waste of time, I have been chasing this around for like 2 weeks. I cant believe it, I feel like an idiot, but I overlooked it because I would figure that a manual would be correct.