ECU Compatability

I have a 1990 Acura integra GS and I think the ECU is out, but not 100% sure. Still trying to find out if there is a way to test the ECU itself, or at least make sure the input feeds are feeding it right, ie check the sensors etc..

Anyways, the ECU I have is the 37820-PR4-L01.

the L01 is specific to California, but I am having a hard time finding this part, I was wondering if the A01 would work in my car, and if so, would this mean it would no longer pass smog?

Thanks

the ecu is usually referered to in the middle number. the PR4 is plentiful. try searchiing honda-tech.com classifieds.

why do you think the ecu is gone?

the ecu is usually referered to in the middle number. the PR4 is plentiful. try searchiing honda-tech.com classifieds.

why do you think the ecu is gone?

I have no spark. I have already put in a new distributor from Kragens which included the ignition coil and ignitor, and the cap and rotor, and still getting no spark. I had a blown fuse in the fuse box under the hood which was labeled ECU, so I am thinking this is the next place for me to look as I have no idea why else I would not be getting spark. If you know of anything else I should check first, it would be greatly appreciated. or on how to test the ECU, or at least check the wires coming in if they are feeding it properly.

Thanks,

I have no spark. I have already put in a new distributor from Kragens which included the ignition coil and ignitor, and the cap and rotor, and still getting no spark. I had a blown fuse in the fuse box under the hood which was labeled ECU, so I am thinking this is the next place for me to look as I have no idea why else I would not be getting spark. If you know of anything else I should check first, it would be greatly appreciated. or on how to test the ECU, or at least check the wires coming in if they are feeding it properly.

Thanks,

actualy, if you had a blown fuse, that should of been the first thing you replaced, instead of buying an expensive dizzy.

pull down the carpet for the ecu watch the hole for the light and turn the key on you should see the red light flash if it dont flash then it could be bad

actualy, if you had a blown fuse, that should of been the first thing you replaced, instead of buying an expensive dizzy.

replaced what? the fuse or the ECU? I did replace the fuse, no luck. and being the only ECU I have found that I know for sure works in my car is $895 from Acura, I am trying to find a way to check the ECU first if at all possible. As for the expensive dizzy.. that was returned no problem fully refunded. no worries..

I have already pulled down the carpet and looked at the ECU itself. being the fuse was blown, if there were any codes stored in the ECU, they would have been erased. so with new fuse and all hooked up, I turn on the key, and I see no light blink from the ECU at all. So I am not sure if this just means there are no codes to output, or if the ECU is bad.

well, first of all, you never mentioned anything about replacing the fuse in the first place. bad 2 way communication maybe?

anyways, lets move on ;)

i dont know what the voltage readings are supposed to be on obd0 icms and im not sure about the wiring diagrams off the top of my head, but dont worry about that too much, the
ignition power distribution are very similar between all obd0 - obd2 tegs and civics, with the exception of a few lines running power to newer sensors on obd1s and obd2s. a helms or haynes would be nice for precision and accuracy nevertheless. also, to troubleshoot the wiring, a multimeter would be nice for any at home mechanic, not to mention, any ohter wiring in your home, boat, or bike.

if you blew your ig1 (40A fuse i believe it is), it runs directly to your ignition switch, coil, and icm, because it provides power to them. because the ig1 fuse was blown, you have to check for voltage and continuity because there may be a short or open in the wire that caused the fuse to blow in the first place. an open in the wire will prevent you from recieving spark. remember, ig1 runs directly with the ignition switch too, so you will have to check that too. the icm runs directly to the ecu, so, that means, if the ig1 fuse blew too, it may mean that the ecu may also have shorted somewhere. if you replace it with a pr4 with no luck, work your way up towards the ig1 fuse. also, the icm also has a ground with the chassis. an open in that ground will cause no spark. it also wouldnt hurt to check for continuity and voltage from the under hood battery fuse to the ig1 fuse.

take it step by step.

good luck.

PS: your expensive pr4 issues can be solved here.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1412882
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1446702
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1443191

before you buy a new/used pr4, troubleshoot the wiring first or slap your old pr4 on an obd0 motor to see if it fires up.

before you buy a new/used pr4, troubleshoot the wiring first or slap your old pr4 on an obd0 motor to see if it fires up.

cool.. so are you anywhere near stockton and have a car I can plug it in? :P Actually, I don't know anyone that has a car I can plug it into to check. I wish it would be that simple for me to check, and would also worry about if something shorting in my ECU for something to short in their car as well.

On the other note, the the fuses etc. the fuses I know of that blew were the ECU fuse which is a 10Amp, and also another one which was a 15Amp a couple spaces over, but I forget what it was labeled. something like alb12B. I replaced both of these.

I do have a multi-meter. Also, where is the IG1 fuse at and what are you refering to about the ICM? Ignition Control Module, aka Igniter which is located within the distributer? If so, I have replaced this part with no luck, but I do have power going to all the feeds like they are supposed to be, just nothing telling them to SPARK.. Imma just hook up a manual button in the car which tells it to spark, and just start pushing the button really fast.. :P haha.. cut a hole in the floor pan and run around like fred flintstone... sorry.. im loosing my mind and pulling out all my hair... oops.. Im bald.. ran out of hair... hahaa
anyways.. thanks for the help...

sorry. i live in the socal desert.

i thought you were refering to the ig1 fuse blowing, because, you refered to no spark. i dont think your problem lies in the ig1 line.

what exactly was the other 15a fuse you are refering to? that would be helpful.

the ecu fuse, is a back up fuse. if it is blown or shorted out somewhere, depending on the location of the short, it would always reset the ecu.......................but, if that is the case, you would still be able to start the car.

i dont have any diagrams off the top of my head. a diagram of all the ground and power connections on your obd0 teg would be nice. a problem i experienced with the ecu fuse blowing was on my old b16 rex. the ecu fuse constantly was blowing out. the reason was that i found that the o2 sensor shared a power with the ecu. the spliced o2 sensor line was exposed and grounded out with exhaust. the result was no spark, fuel, and caused the ecu fuse to constantly blow out.

i would highly recommend a helms or find a downloadable version somewhere online for your obd0 teg. it would be a very helpful map for you if you find out the ecu is actually good.

good luck.

hey i just thought of something.... my cousin just had the same prob with his ecu light not coming on and when he turned the key to the on position there was no battery light on..... it turned out that a ground to the motor was not hooked up. so check all grounds to motor and maybe ad some extras... just an idea