Another Idle question
blk_srt
12-10-2005, 12:22 AM
I've had a problem with the idle on my car since I bought it and I've tested everything from vacuum leaks to injectors and everything but I just go to thinking could it possibly be that the hunny comb is removed from my mas? I wasn't the one to do it, the car came that way. just a thought.
crunchymilk55
12-10-2005, 12:28 AM
Removing the honeycomb on a 2g MAS is a no-no. Have you checked your TPS?
inatalonIXLR8
12-10-2005, 01:22 AM
Deffinately if the honeycomb was removed it would act like that. Also if that's not the case, I initially had a problem with my throttle body not closing all the way, causing it to idle high after warming up. To fix this I cleaned the carbon out of it and added another spring on the throttle to help close it with more force. Good luck.
blk_srt
12-10-2005, 10:20 AM
Removing the honeycomb on a 2g MAS is a no-no. Have you checked your TPS?
Well like I said it never had one when I bought it. Yes I have checked and double checked the TPS. Would going with a maft help this at all?
Well like I said it never had one when I bought it. Yes I have checked and double checked the TPS. Would going with a maft help this at all?
1992eclipseGS
12-11-2005, 08:17 AM
Call me stupid, but what is the honeycomb??
kjewer1
12-11-2005, 08:36 AM
Deffinately if the honeycomb was removed it would act like that. Also if that's not the case, I initially had a problem with my throttle body not closing all the way, causing it to idle high after warming up. To fix this I cleaned the carbon out of it and added another spring on the throttle to help close it with more force. Good luck.
In my experience an idle that goes up when the car gets warmer is always due to improper setting of the throttle cable tension. The extra spring you added fixed it, so I wouldn't bother looking into it unless you are doing work on the car anyway, but I posted the correct procedure for setting the cable in another thread that is easily found searching, if anyone is interested or thinks it will help thier situation. As the cables jacket heats up, it expands, effectively shortening the relative length of the cable inside it.
I agree that removing the honeycomb will bollix the idle. On a 2g with the side and lower HCs removed you typically need a 30-35% positive adjustment on the AFC to correct it. That's one third, pretty significant ;) 2Gs should always have all the honey combs in, since they are good up to 50 lbs/min. If you are going over that a properly hacked MAS can provide an additional 7 lbs of capacity (14%), and with DSMlink it can run very close to stock with the settings for the MAF comp table they provide.
In my experience an idle that goes up when the car gets warmer is always due to improper setting of the throttle cable tension. The extra spring you added fixed it, so I wouldn't bother looking into it unless you are doing work on the car anyway, but I posted the correct procedure for setting the cable in another thread that is easily found searching, if anyone is interested or thinks it will help thier situation. As the cables jacket heats up, it expands, effectively shortening the relative length of the cable inside it.
I agree that removing the honeycomb will bollix the idle. On a 2g with the side and lower HCs removed you typically need a 30-35% positive adjustment on the AFC to correct it. That's one third, pretty significant ;) 2Gs should always have all the honey combs in, since they are good up to 50 lbs/min. If you are going over that a properly hacked MAS can provide an additional 7 lbs of capacity (14%), and with DSMlink it can run very close to stock with the settings for the MAF comp table they provide.
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