Suspension recomendations for an ED9
Thepeug
12-09-2005, 02:09 PM
With Christmas around the corner, I'm trying to compile a list of desired parts. Currently, my '91 Si is completely stock except for Hawk pads and Brembo rotors, which I put on a few months ago and which seem to be holding up well. I'd like to start upgrading the suspension, but unfortunately my knowledge regarding suspension parts and tuning is limited. Given around $300 and a stock platform, what would be your first move? I want to set this car up for daily driving and autocross. If anyone can recommend specific parts and brand names, I'd really appreciate it. While I'm looking for quality parts, I can't afford top-dollar gear; is there a huge difference between Neuspeed and generic Ebay sway bars, for example? Thanks again.
-Chris
-Chris
BullShifter
12-10-2005, 11:08 PM
With that money you have a few options. Upgrade the sway bars, Suspension Technique is decent product for the $$$, I use them on my 91 Si. Another option would be decent struts, Tokico HP's, and save up for H&R's springs and install.
With suspension parts, price HIGHLY reflects quality. Cheap Ebay parts are for looking at not for function. Spend the $$$ and do it right the first time.
With suspension parts, price HIGHLY reflects quality. Cheap Ebay parts are for looking at not for function. Spend the $$$ and do it right the first time.
Thepeug
12-10-2005, 11:30 PM
With that money you have a few options. Upgrade the sway bars, Suspension Technique is decent product for the $$$, I use them on my 91 Si. Another option would be decent struts, Tokico HP's, and save up for H&R's springs and install.
With suspension parts, price HIGHLY reflects quality. Cheap Ebay parts are for looking at not for function. Spend the $$$ and do it right the first time.
I've decided that I can use some of my job money towards these parts, so I'm thinking about a complete set of Energy Suspension Hyperflex bushings, Eibach Pro Kit springs, and Tokico HP's. Would I need struts with this combo? Sorry for the newb questions; I'm pretty clueless when it comes to suspension. Thanks for the help.
With suspension parts, price HIGHLY reflects quality. Cheap Ebay parts are for looking at not for function. Spend the $$$ and do it right the first time.
I've decided that I can use some of my job money towards these parts, so I'm thinking about a complete set of Energy Suspension Hyperflex bushings, Eibach Pro Kit springs, and Tokico HP's. Would I need struts with this combo? Sorry for the newb questions; I'm pretty clueless when it comes to suspension. Thanks for the help.
BullShifter
12-10-2005, 11:55 PM
I've decided that I can use some of my job money towards these parts, so I'm thinking about a complete set of Energy Suspension Hyperflex bushings, Eibach Pro Kit springs, and Tokico HP's. Would I need struts with this combo? Sorry for the newb questions; I'm pretty clueless when it comes to suspension. Thanks for the help.
The bushings are a pain in the ass to install. I rec. Mugen rubber kits. Polyurethane is better suited for racing, on the street the will be noisy & result in a harsh ride and in the cold they turn into cement. Our shop will charge any where from 7-10 or more hrs of labor to install a full kit. Think about it 10hrs x $69 per hour is $690. I can think of much better ways to improve my car, not that the urethane bushings don't improve, they do wonders.
Eibach pro kit springs are decent, I use them with KYB AGX struts. I always rec. H&R springs for the first choice. The only reason I used Eibach's was the deal I got. As far as struts go, you mentioned HP's, those are decent non-adjustable struts. If you don't lower more than 1.75" you can get away without using camber kits. Just make sure to have your toe set after lowering. Any place that does alignemts can do this, as they will try and sell you on camber kits. If your really concerned about tire wear over the long run camber kits aren't a bad idea. I've put over 40,000 miles on my tires with hardly any edge wear with normal tire rotations.
Don't worry about the questions, it's better to ask now than learning the hard way.
The bushings are a pain in the ass to install. I rec. Mugen rubber kits. Polyurethane is better suited for racing, on the street the will be noisy & result in a harsh ride and in the cold they turn into cement. Our shop will charge any where from 7-10 or more hrs of labor to install a full kit. Think about it 10hrs x $69 per hour is $690. I can think of much better ways to improve my car, not that the urethane bushings don't improve, they do wonders.
Eibach pro kit springs are decent, I use them with KYB AGX struts. I always rec. H&R springs for the first choice. The only reason I used Eibach's was the deal I got. As far as struts go, you mentioned HP's, those are decent non-adjustable struts. If you don't lower more than 1.75" you can get away without using camber kits. Just make sure to have your toe set after lowering. Any place that does alignemts can do this, as they will try and sell you on camber kits. If your really concerned about tire wear over the long run camber kits aren't a bad idea. I've put over 40,000 miles on my tires with hardly any edge wear with normal tire rotations.
Don't worry about the questions, it's better to ask now than learning the hard way.
Thepeug
12-11-2005, 12:42 AM
The bushings are a pain in the ass to install. I rec. Mugen rubber kits. Polyurethane is better suited for racing, on the street the will be noisy & result in a harsh ride and in the cold they turn into cement. Our shop will charge any where from 7-10 or more hrs of labor to install a full kit. Think about it 10hrs x $69 per hour is $690. I can think of much better ways to improve my car, not that the urethane bushings don't improve, they do wonders.
Eibach pro kit springs are decent, I use them with KYB AGX struts. I always rec. H&R springs for the first choice. The only reason I used Eibach's was the deal I got. As far as struts go, you mentioned HP's, those are decent non-adjustable struts. If you don't lower more than 1.75" you can get away without using camber kits. Just make sure to have your toe set after lowering. Any place that does alignemts can do this, as they will try and sell you on camber kits. If your really concerned about tire wear over the long run camber kits aren't a bad idea. I've put over 40,000 miles on my tires with hardly any edge wear with normal tire rotations.
Don't worry about the questions, it's better to ask now than learning the hard way.
I appreciate the advice. As far as labor goes, I plan on installing the bushings myself, but I'll definitely look into the Mugen bushings. I want to stiffen the chassis, but considering that the CRX is my daily driver, I also don't want to be rattled at every bump in the road. If price wasn't a factor (it is, but hypothetically speaking), would you recommend H&R or Eibach? I don't plan on going any lower than 1.5" front and rear.
Eibach pro kit springs are decent, I use them with KYB AGX struts. I always rec. H&R springs for the first choice. The only reason I used Eibach's was the deal I got. As far as struts go, you mentioned HP's, those are decent non-adjustable struts. If you don't lower more than 1.75" you can get away without using camber kits. Just make sure to have your toe set after lowering. Any place that does alignemts can do this, as they will try and sell you on camber kits. If your really concerned about tire wear over the long run camber kits aren't a bad idea. I've put over 40,000 miles on my tires with hardly any edge wear with normal tire rotations.
Don't worry about the questions, it's better to ask now than learning the hard way.
I appreciate the advice. As far as labor goes, I plan on installing the bushings myself, but I'll definitely look into the Mugen bushings. I want to stiffen the chassis, but considering that the CRX is my daily driver, I also don't want to be rattled at every bump in the road. If price wasn't a factor (it is, but hypothetically speaking), would you recommend H&R or Eibach? I don't plan on going any lower than 1.5" front and rear.
BullShifter
12-11-2005, 12:51 AM
H&R if money is or isn't an issue. You can't beat the quality for the $$$$$.
Thepeug
12-11-2005, 01:07 AM
H&R if money is or isn't an issue. You can't beat the quality for the $$$$$.
Awesome, thanks. Two more quick questions: I hear from another CRX site that an optimum bushings setup should mix rubber and poly, depending on the mounting location. Any thoughts? Also, aside from visible signs of damage, how do I know which bushings to replace, and how do I figure out where they're located?
Awesome, thanks. Two more quick questions: I hear from another CRX site that an optimum bushings setup should mix rubber and poly, depending on the mounting location. Any thoughts? Also, aside from visible signs of damage, how do I know which bushings to replace, and how do I figure out where they're located?
BullShifter
12-11-2005, 11:27 AM
That's why a Mugen rubber kit is the best way to go. Mugen is a stiff rubber, slightly weaker than poly. Rubber is meant to flex and absorb will poly isn't. My car has a mix of both poly & oem bushings.
Poly bushings are shifter, engine mounts, upper/lower strut bushings, sway bars, end links.
Ball joints, tie rods, & control arms are stock since those travel the most with suspension, no need for the noise since it's not a race car. If you lube them often they'll be quite.
Once your under the car it's pretty easy to figure which ones go where.
http://www.suspension.com/tips.htm
http://www.suspension.com/civic.JPG
Poly bushings are shifter, engine mounts, upper/lower strut bushings, sway bars, end links.
Ball joints, tie rods, & control arms are stock since those travel the most with suspension, no need for the noise since it's not a race car. If you lube them often they'll be quite.
Once your under the car it's pretty easy to figure which ones go where.
http://www.suspension.com/tips.htm
http://www.suspension.com/civic.JPG
Thepeug
12-13-2005, 03:14 PM
That's why a Mugen rubber kit is the best way to go. Mugen is a stiff rubber, slightly weaker than poly. Rubber is meant to flex and absorb will poly isn't. My car has a mix of both poly & oem bushings.
Poly bushings are shifter, engine mounts, upper/lower strut bushings, sway bars, end links.
Ball joints, tie rods, & control arms are stock since those travel the most with suspension, no need for the noise since it's not a race car. If you lube them often they'll be quite.
Once your under the car it's pretty easy to figure which ones go where.
http://www.suspension.com/tips.htm
http://www.suspension.com/civic.JPG
I appreciate the tip. That'll definitely save me some money.
Poly bushings are shifter, engine mounts, upper/lower strut bushings, sway bars, end links.
Ball joints, tie rods, & control arms are stock since those travel the most with suspension, no need for the noise since it's not a race car. If you lube them often they'll be quite.
Once your under the car it's pretty easy to figure which ones go where.
http://www.suspension.com/tips.htm
http://www.suspension.com/civic.JPG
I appreciate the tip. That'll definitely save me some money.
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