May sound dumb but need help
crimson65
12-09-2005, 11:34 AM
What i'm about to ask may sound like a dumb question but I'm not sure what to do? I am living with this guy (who is actually my exhusband). We have been divorced for 8 years.About 4 months ago we started seeing each other again and he moved into my house. to make a long story short he was a drug user, abusive and after all these years said he had changed. Well he hasn't. in the last 4 weeks he has started doing drugs again and hitting and yelling at my daughter. the law around here are basically assholes and could care less about helping get him out of my house. he says if he leaves he's taking my 98 chevy malibu (he makes more money at his job than i do and therefore thinks he's paying all the bills around here) (which is paid for) I just recently was able to buy me a truck so the car is my back up vehicle. My question is this. I want to fix the car where it will not crank no matter what. I removed two of the fuses from the fuse block underneath the hood both of them said ignition switch battery 1 and 2. He is not very smart when it comes to cars. will this be enough to keep it from cranking for a while without him actually figuring it out until I can get him out of my house. or is there something else I can do to it. right now this is my only alternative until i can figure something else out. Thanks
directory
12-09-2005, 11:44 AM
disconnect the battery cabel...then follow it down to the starter. cut the cable in half, electrical tape the ends and tuck the end up somewhere. connect it to the battery again. that might work.
you could also pull a spark plug wire or 2--mark them first so you know which one goes where
get a few unpaid parking tickets-- have the towed away or a boot put on.
or just drive it to a car lot and leave it...when he is gone, go back and get it.
you could also pull a spark plug wire or 2--mark them first so you know which one goes where
get a few unpaid parking tickets-- have the towed away or a boot put on.
or just drive it to a car lot and leave it...when he is gone, go back and get it.
raycorri
12-09-2005, 04:32 PM
disconnect the battery cabel...then follow it down to the starter. cut the cable in half, electrical tape the ends and tuck the end up somewhere. connect it to the battery again. that might work.
you could also pull a spark plug wire or 2--mark them first so you know which one goes where
get a few unpaid parking tickets-- have the towed away or a boot put on.
or just drive it to a car lot and leave it...when he is gone, go back and get it.
You could try this FUEL KILL SWITCH idea under #4 below. Just install the switch where he can't find it. It's really not that difficult to do yourself or it shouldn't cost that much to have someone do this for you. It's a 25 minute job! OR.... if you don't need to start it for awhile---- just cut the yellow wire while the car is off and it will not start until you reconnect it.There might even be a plug into the back of the ignition lock cylinder that you could just unplug with the ignition off that would do the same thing.
I had my local Auto wiring tech install a $5 on/off toggle switch under my dash that is connected into the yellow (key resistance/code/recognition) wire that can be cut while the engine is running to essentially bypass passlock I(1) or II(2) permanently.(I do not have nor intend to install a remote starter and I do not have an alarm on this car.) The toggle switch idea came about because of my concern that a dealership tech could possibly reset the security “fail- enable” mode or the battery could die or become disconnected for an extended period of time and reset the intended fault. All I need to do is flip a switch to break the circuit again while the car is running to take the passlock system offline. When the system is offline, the security light is on constantly.(Not flashing.) I don’t mind the light, but others may want to remove the bulb or black it out. Here’s how the setup works:
1)Switch On while engine is running – Security system is on.(Factory Setting) Security light is off. (Circuit is complete.)
2)Switch Off while engine is running – Security system goes into “fail-enable” mode and bypasses the passlock system. Security light is illuminated.(Circuit is broken.)
3)Switch On while engine is off – Security system is on (Factory Setting)(Circuit is complete.)
4)Switch Off while engine is off – Security system detects this as a theft attempt.(Circuit is broken.) If you try to start the car, the fuel will be disabled and the security light will flash.
Flip the switch On to complete the circuit and reset the security system to Factory setting. The car will now start.(Acts as a FUEL KILL SWITCH.)
Below you will find a thread and some supporting evidence of why this bypass actually works. The entire job took 25 minutes. There is an incredible link below with high resolution pictures of the wiring for your specific car. I included the actual photos that I used to gain access to my ignition lock cylinder wiring. *Special note: those with GM Class II Data Bus should leave your radio connected during the entire procedure so nothing weird happens. If you are unsure if your car is so equipped, it’s best to leave the radio connected and let it hang. Good luck and post with your success stories! 12/4/05
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=59694&PN=1&TPN=1 Is this You? Get in your car....try to start it and find that the passlock II is screwed up again, you have to wait 10 minutes for it to reset. When it resets it starts up and runs fine. Fix-------Start the car, find the yellow wire that I'm sure you've read about, the rcode wire that is, and cut it. Shut off the car and you're done! The rcode wire on my 2001 alero is behind and to the left of the radio, you must take out the radio.....the yellow wire accompanies two other wires, the white and black, the 3 wires are alone and run inside what appears to be a cheap electrical tape that will fall apart in your hand when you start tugging on it, they are very thin wires, maybe 18 to 22. I taped off both ends of the yellow wire too.Took me about 14 days to find this out and reading no exageration 1000 posts. Forget all the relay, DEI and resister crap that I'm sure you've read about. All this writing assumes that this will continue to work.....i WILL be back here to post an update if it fails again. If you have doubts of me coming back to update a failure you can email me
http://www.insurorsservicebureau.com/ISB%20technical/ISB_QA.pdf page 4, The PASS Key Module also has the ability to allow engine operation if it recognizes a system fault in the ignition key reference circuit while the engine is running. In this case the Module enters and remains in a mode which allows the engine to be started and run without reading the resistance chip. This mode requires that the original factory resistance chip key be in the ignition lock
cylinder at the time the fault occurs. During this mode, the
security light will be ON all the time. When the key reference circuit is repaired, the module will automatically reprogram itself to the mode requiring the original resistance chip.
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
system goes offline and the engine will start and run
with any key that turns the lock.
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=84&link=BULLDOG
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=87&link=BULLDOG
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ and click on vehicle wiring diagrams to select your particular make.
you could also pull a spark plug wire or 2--mark them first so you know which one goes where
get a few unpaid parking tickets-- have the towed away or a boot put on.
or just drive it to a car lot and leave it...when he is gone, go back and get it.
You could try this FUEL KILL SWITCH idea under #4 below. Just install the switch where he can't find it. It's really not that difficult to do yourself or it shouldn't cost that much to have someone do this for you. It's a 25 minute job! OR.... if you don't need to start it for awhile---- just cut the yellow wire while the car is off and it will not start until you reconnect it.There might even be a plug into the back of the ignition lock cylinder that you could just unplug with the ignition off that would do the same thing.
I had my local Auto wiring tech install a $5 on/off toggle switch under my dash that is connected into the yellow (key resistance/code/recognition) wire that can be cut while the engine is running to essentially bypass passlock I(1) or II(2) permanently.(I do not have nor intend to install a remote starter and I do not have an alarm on this car.) The toggle switch idea came about because of my concern that a dealership tech could possibly reset the security “fail- enable” mode or the battery could die or become disconnected for an extended period of time and reset the intended fault. All I need to do is flip a switch to break the circuit again while the car is running to take the passlock system offline. When the system is offline, the security light is on constantly.(Not flashing.) I don’t mind the light, but others may want to remove the bulb or black it out. Here’s how the setup works:
1)Switch On while engine is running – Security system is on.(Factory Setting) Security light is off. (Circuit is complete.)
2)Switch Off while engine is running – Security system goes into “fail-enable” mode and bypasses the passlock system. Security light is illuminated.(Circuit is broken.)
3)Switch On while engine is off – Security system is on (Factory Setting)(Circuit is complete.)
4)Switch Off while engine is off – Security system detects this as a theft attempt.(Circuit is broken.) If you try to start the car, the fuel will be disabled and the security light will flash.
Flip the switch On to complete the circuit and reset the security system to Factory setting. The car will now start.(Acts as a FUEL KILL SWITCH.)
Below you will find a thread and some supporting evidence of why this bypass actually works. The entire job took 25 minutes. There is an incredible link below with high resolution pictures of the wiring for your specific car. I included the actual photos that I used to gain access to my ignition lock cylinder wiring. *Special note: those with GM Class II Data Bus should leave your radio connected during the entire procedure so nothing weird happens. If you are unsure if your car is so equipped, it’s best to leave the radio connected and let it hang. Good luck and post with your success stories! 12/4/05
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=59694&PN=1&TPN=1 Is this You? Get in your car....try to start it and find that the passlock II is screwed up again, you have to wait 10 minutes for it to reset. When it resets it starts up and runs fine. Fix-------Start the car, find the yellow wire that I'm sure you've read about, the rcode wire that is, and cut it. Shut off the car and you're done! The rcode wire on my 2001 alero is behind and to the left of the radio, you must take out the radio.....the yellow wire accompanies two other wires, the white and black, the 3 wires are alone and run inside what appears to be a cheap electrical tape that will fall apart in your hand when you start tugging on it, they are very thin wires, maybe 18 to 22. I taped off both ends of the yellow wire too.Took me about 14 days to find this out and reading no exageration 1000 posts. Forget all the relay, DEI and resister crap that I'm sure you've read about. All this writing assumes that this will continue to work.....i WILL be back here to post an update if it fails again. If you have doubts of me coming back to update a failure you can email me
http://www.insurorsservicebureau.com/ISB%20technical/ISB_QA.pdf page 4, The PASS Key Module also has the ability to allow engine operation if it recognizes a system fault in the ignition key reference circuit while the engine is running. In this case the Module enters and remains in a mode which allows the engine to be started and run without reading the resistance chip. This mode requires that the original factory resistance chip key be in the ignition lock
cylinder at the time the fault occurs. During this mode, the
security light will be ON all the time. When the key reference circuit is repaired, the module will automatically reprogram itself to the mode requiring the original resistance chip.
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
system goes offline and the engine will start and run
with any key that turns the lock.
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=84&link=BULLDOG
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=87&link=BULLDOG
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ and click on vehicle wiring diagrams to select your particular make.
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