Non-starting 1998 Accord?

Hi, I had a couple of incidents where when I started the car in the morning, there's no response after the key turn. I would turn the key to the starting position where you hear the sound and resistence to spring back. This time, there's absolutely no response, and no tension. I then turned key back, and pulled it out, and then reinserted, and still nothing. The 3rd time I try this, it worked just fine, like nothing's happend. What's wrong here? Thanks lots for help.

Could be a bad ignition switch. If manual transmission, there is a clutch switch that must activated to allow the starter to work. On an automatic there is a switch on the shifter to ensure that the shifter is in park or neutral before the starter will work. But based on your statement that the ignition switch feels strange, start there.

is this automatic or manual? on manual if the clutch isnt pushed all the way to the floor it wont let you start it and you wont have any resistance, welll atleast on my 89 accord it does that

and you wont have any resistance
I disagree. The spring-loading is part of the mechanics of the switch itself. If it doesn't spring back from the "start" position, the switch is broken.

I've seen people bring them in where you could turn the key in a complete circle one time without doing anything, then it would catch and work right the next time.

I agree with codger, your ignition cylinder/switch assembly is funky.

mine works fine, unless you dont press the clutch down the floor all the way

Thanks for the diagnosis help. It's an automatic L4 Dx model by the way. If it happens again I'll be sure to check to see if there's battery power. I'm thinking it's either electrical issue, or the ignition cylinder like you guys mentioned. It just happened recently about 3 times, and now this week everything is just fine. I assume if it's the cylinder, the dealer would have to take the ignition cylinder out of the steering column assembly? Is this expensive parts & labor?

Okay it just happened again the other day and this time I took time to note the characteristics. The key DOES spring back from the ignition position. I must have been weirded out by that and didn't realize the key had bounced back. There was power in battery as the warning lights all lit up normally (as when they light up during start, they weren't lit due to malfunctions).

It seems the car just didn't catch on the ignition key turning. Then twice more tries later, it caught the turn and the car started w/o any further issues. Would this still be due to ignition cylinder?

Ok, based on what you have told me it could either be a ignition switch or a starter or if the key has chip (resistor) inside it could be a bunch of things. I do not have the wiring diagram for your year, so I'm a bit in the dark. You might need a meter or a noid light to check if you are getting 12 volts to the small wire at the starter when you turn the key to start. If you consistently get voltage and the car doesn't turn over, then it is the starter.

Thanks, there's no chip in the key itself. So what would isolate the problem to either ignition switch or starter? The 1998 OEM battery was changed about 2yrs ago when it went bad after 6yrs. Would that have anything to do this? The battery's been running just fine now.

The starter engages when voltage (12V) is applied to the small wire at the starter solenoid. So when you try to start the car, if you have voltage, it is the starter.

Thanks for the info. Here's the update, we had the dealershop examine the problem. They believe it's the starter since there is voltage. They quoted that fixing ithe starter would cost $300-400 and about 1hr labor. Is this right, or can we do better?

And is it critical? The Honda mechanic said that even though it's faulty, usually if you keep trying with the key, it'll catch and start the car.

I agree with those prices on a new Honda starter but you can get a Bosch rebuilt/remanufactured starter for around $250. The labor estimate is about right. One thing to consider--Honda will warrant its parts and the labor to replace the installed part for 12000 miles if it fails during the warranty period If you furnish the part and they install it and it goes bad during the warranty period, you will have to pay the labor to remove and install the new part. If you do the work yourself, I would go for the Bosch rebuilt/remanufactured part. Does that make sense?

As for critical, it depends who is driving the car. You might be able to play with it for a few months and keep it working. However, if it is your wife's car, I would change it now. Also, when it finally craps out , you will see a tow job from Mt Ranier or some other remote place in addition to the cost of fixing it. You do know that when it finally craps out you won't be anywhere close to a repair shop.