95 Rodeo read Anti-Lock solution (ABS)
macalintalr
12-05-2005, 02:02 AM
I'm sure that there are countles other threads in regards to the ABS light on the Rodeo, but on my 95 2WD 3.2L, I cannot find the diagnostic port to pull codes out. So I thought the problem was the computer under the front passenger seat: not so, as I bought a spare on eBay with no luck.
I also replaced all the pads on all four wheels. No luck after that either.
Some threads mention the speedometer; but my speedometer worked. This I found out somewhere on this forum was actually from the VSS. The Wheel Speed Sensor on top of the rear differential is a different sensor.
Tracing the wire from the WSS, there is a section from the differential to the passenger side of the truck, where it joins a larger set of cables. On my car it was blue and yellow wires. I did a continuity test from these wires to the cluster connector under the front passenger side of the car. Okay as well.
The WSS also sent back 1.5KOhms. (so it's not shorted nor open). So the section of cable between the WSS and the "uplink" to the larger cluster of wires is my final area to look at. The wires in this segment is white and black (why they keep changing the colors is beyond me). White showed good connectivity, but the black one needed some persuation: it had some oxidation on the contacts. But the lamp was still lit on the rear anti-lock. It was fixed though. I had to clear the codes from the ECM by disconnecting the battery cable, and hitting the break pedal a few times. Since then, the problem has been resolved.
Hopefully this will help someone else.
I also replaced all the pads on all four wheels. No luck after that either.
Some threads mention the speedometer; but my speedometer worked. This I found out somewhere on this forum was actually from the VSS. The Wheel Speed Sensor on top of the rear differential is a different sensor.
Tracing the wire from the WSS, there is a section from the differential to the passenger side of the truck, where it joins a larger set of cables. On my car it was blue and yellow wires. I did a continuity test from these wires to the cluster connector under the front passenger side of the car. Okay as well.
The WSS also sent back 1.5KOhms. (so it's not shorted nor open). So the section of cable between the WSS and the "uplink" to the larger cluster of wires is my final area to look at. The wires in this segment is white and black (why they keep changing the colors is beyond me). White showed good connectivity, but the black one needed some persuation: it had some oxidation on the contacts. But the lamp was still lit on the rear anti-lock. It was fixed though. I had to clear the codes from the ECM by disconnecting the battery cable, and hitting the break pedal a few times. Since then, the problem has been resolved.
Hopefully this will help someone else.
amigo-2k
12-05-2005, 10:12 AM
No clue as to your problem.
I see you live in HI, how often has the ABS kicked in?
I see you live in HI, how often has the ABS kicked in?
macalintalr
12-05-2005, 10:50 AM
No clue as to your problem.
I see you live in HI, how often has the ABS kicked in?
My problem was that the Rear Antilock lamp started to randomly light up back in July, but after you shut down the engine and restart, it would normally clear it. However in September, the lamp would not go out. Looking at my Chilton and Haynes manuals helped a little, but I could not find the diagnostic port on my truck to pull codes (even my mechanic couldn't find the port back when I had my timing belt changed).
As for how often the ABS kicked in, I think only once that I am aware of; sudden braking and there was some sand..
I see you live in HI, how often has the ABS kicked in?
My problem was that the Rear Antilock lamp started to randomly light up back in July, but after you shut down the engine and restart, it would normally clear it. However in September, the lamp would not go out. Looking at my Chilton and Haynes manuals helped a little, but I could not find the diagnostic port on my truck to pull codes (even my mechanic couldn't find the port back when I had my timing belt changed).
As for how often the ABS kicked in, I think only once that I am aware of; sudden braking and there was some sand..
rodeo02
12-05-2005, 11:56 AM
Corrosion & dirt contamination is the main thing that kills ABS. Good info and troubleshooting on your part Mac! You might get the diag. port location for your model from a helms manual or a friendly dealership. On the 1996+ you use the OBDII port for ABS diagnostics.
G/luck
Joel
G/luck
Joel
highlandlake
12-06-2005, 10:01 AM
Corrosion & dirt contamination is the main thing that kills ABS. Good info and troubleshooting on your part Mac! You might get the diag. port location for your model from a helms manual or a friendly dealership. On the 1996+ you use the OBDII port for ABS diagnostics.
G/luck
Joel
I just had my '97 Rodeo at the dealer and at a brake shop yesterday. Still trying to get to the root of the ABS light issue that been bugging me for two plus years. We have ice on the roads again, and I got concerned about the problem after ignoring it all summer (isn't the speed sensors or brake wear) Neither place could pull any codes yesterday. Came up blank. And the ABS light is permanently on. The dealer wants me to leave the vehicle for them a whole day so they can remove the drivers seat and run a diagnostic on the module under there. $85 a hour, two hour minimum. Holy smokes, I had to say no. I was thinking about buying a junkyard module but am glad I read this post. I'd rather trace those wires first.
Any chance of getting a picture of the area where you found the corrosion? I have to work on the driveway, in Maine with limited daylight and even less warmth. Anything to guide me close would be helpful. Thanks.
G/luck
Joel
I just had my '97 Rodeo at the dealer and at a brake shop yesterday. Still trying to get to the root of the ABS light issue that been bugging me for two plus years. We have ice on the roads again, and I got concerned about the problem after ignoring it all summer (isn't the speed sensors or brake wear) Neither place could pull any codes yesterday. Came up blank. And the ABS light is permanently on. The dealer wants me to leave the vehicle for them a whole day so they can remove the drivers seat and run a diagnostic on the module under there. $85 a hour, two hour minimum. Holy smokes, I had to say no. I was thinking about buying a junkyard module but am glad I read this post. I'd rather trace those wires first.
Any chance of getting a picture of the area where you found the corrosion? I have to work on the driveway, in Maine with limited daylight and even less warmth. Anything to guide me close would be helpful. Thanks.
highlandlake
12-19-2005, 08:55 AM
Quote "On the 1996+ you use the OBDII port for ABS diagnostics."
OK, I spent a little time this weekend under the Rodeo, since the weather was nice enough to leave a nice clean sheet of ice to lay on.
I disconnected the ABS circuit board connector under the vehicle. Those two phillips screws were rusted but did come off. The exposed harness was still clean and the contacts looked OK. So I removed the passenger seat (I originally thought it was the drivers seat) and carefully cut a slit in the carpeting to expose the circuit board module. I removed the board and examined it closely. There were no solder failures, burn marks, damage, or anything that raised suspicion. The harness connectors were in good shape. I did notice that the dashboard lights would go out when the board is disconnected, but the lights come again when it's back in place.
A couple of weeks ago, my Isuzu mechanic, a seasoned one, could not get any codes from the OBDII port. He removed the kick panel from the drivers side and looked around for another port - didn't find one. It was then that he mentioned that he would have to charge labor for removing the seat. That's why I did it myself this weekend. No luck finding anything obvious.
What do you suggest I do next? I'd like to find a way to read the codes - the ice on the roads has me anxious to fix this problem.
Tom B.
OK, I spent a little time this weekend under the Rodeo, since the weather was nice enough to leave a nice clean sheet of ice to lay on.
I disconnected the ABS circuit board connector under the vehicle. Those two phillips screws were rusted but did come off. The exposed harness was still clean and the contacts looked OK. So I removed the passenger seat (I originally thought it was the drivers seat) and carefully cut a slit in the carpeting to expose the circuit board module. I removed the board and examined it closely. There were no solder failures, burn marks, damage, or anything that raised suspicion. The harness connectors were in good shape. I did notice that the dashboard lights would go out when the board is disconnected, but the lights come again when it's back in place.
A couple of weeks ago, my Isuzu mechanic, a seasoned one, could not get any codes from the OBDII port. He removed the kick panel from the drivers side and looked around for another port - didn't find one. It was then that he mentioned that he would have to charge labor for removing the seat. That's why I did it myself this weekend. No luck finding anything obvious.
What do you suggest I do next? I'd like to find a way to read the codes - the ice on the roads has me anxious to fix this problem.
Tom B.
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