passlock sensor in 1998 malibu

We paid $428 for new cylinder and key after my daughter's car was diagnosed with an internal fault in passlock sensor back in October. We never received a new key and today she had the same problem that was supposed to have been fixed. We're taking the car back in but I informed the dealership that we had never received a new key after the work had been done so I questioned whether the cylinder had actually been replaced. Although the invoice specifies a new cylinder and key the person said that they could have just reprogramed the new cylinder to go with the old key. It sounds like he's trying to change the story to fit our finding about no new key. Is it possible to reprogram the passlock sensor to fit the old key? Thank You!

Hey, our daughter's 2003 Malibu started having problems starting and then refused to start at all. We felt like it was the fuel pump and her theft light was blinking so we called a chevy place for advice and they told us the same thing that they told you. Said it was gonna cost us over $400 to fix some sensor thingy. Then, I found this forum and some other info in some searches on Deferred Theft System and fuel pumps and found out that the theft system was shutting down the fuel pump and keeping it from starting. We got some good advice from folks on this forum. They all said what we later found in the manual that came with the car. Turn the switch over, wait about 10 minutes for the light to quit blinking, turn it off and then in a smooth movement, crank it. We did this two more times to allow the thing to "relearn" and now it runs fine. We did however get a new key. We thought maybe the key was getting old or something that caused the theft system to go crazy. We got the key from Walmart for a couple of bucks. It has to be the right one, the one with the chip for that car but it was a couple of bucks and we saved the $400. These dealers will rip you off. The old key is what we got it to relearn and restart with but we felt like to be safe so that she wouldn't be bothered to maybe just get a new key. I don't know if your situation is the same or not. Just thought I would tell ya about ours and maybe it would help.

Thank you ednlesia for your reply and help. We've got an appointment to take it back to the dealer on Monday. I feel that we got taken; but I guess we're going to have to live with it. I worry because my daughter's commute to work is 50 miles round trip and she's only 17. She has called me from work when her car hasn't started but if she waits awhile so far it does start eventually. I copied your reply and gave it to my husband so that if we don't get it taken care of at the dealership, we'll try your method. Thanks again.

I merged these to threads togather.
Next time jw50501 just post a reply in the original thread..no need to make a new thread.

Jw50501
I may have missed something post switch over but 428$ for a new key cylinder and no new key does not add up someplace.
Git right on there case and make them fix it.
I would think a new key tumbler should come with 2 new keys.
MT

Thank you ednlesia for your reply and help. We've got an appointment to take it back to the dealer on Monday. I feel that we got taken; but I guess we're going to have to live with it. I worry because my daughter's commute to work is 50 miles round trip and she's only 17. She has called me from work when her car hasn't started but if she waits awhile so far it does start eventually. I copied your reply and gave it to my husband so that if we don't get it taken care of at the dealership, we'll try your method. Thanks again.

You are welcome. You will find this info about the (waiting ten minutes for the theft light to go out and then turning it off and starting it) in your manual that came with your car. After we did all the research, we looked in the manual and it said the same thing. Only, we did it in a three time cycle and that made it "relearn" so that it has not happened again. I know what you mean about those daughters. This malibu of ours is one we bought for our daughter and she has it at College which is a two hour drive away. So we understand your frustration. Anyway, hope it helps.

If the anti theft system is the problem.
Watch the anti theft light.
It should come on and go out after the key is turn.
If it remains on there is a anti theft system problem.
Also there should be a code stored in your body computer history or present that will point you to the problem.
If the dealer plays dumb ask them to pull the body computer system codes and go from there.
Or if you can get the codes post the code no. back.
MT

I work for roadside assistance and the trick is to turn the ignition on , leave it on untill the light stops flashing, then turn it of and start it. some models have a light that flashes, and then stops flashing after 15 or so minutes; and other models have a light that stays solid and then goes out after the wait . the way it works is after the key is in the ignition so long, the computer recognizes that it has to be the right keyto have the ignition on so long, so it resets the passlock . i have a 97 malibu , and it happens maybee every four months. but the trick always works.

I work for roadside assistance and the trick is to turn the ignition on , leave it on untill the light stops flashing, then turn it of and start it. some models have a light that flashes, and then stops flashing after 15 or so minutes; and other models have a light that stays solid and then goes out after the wait . the way it works is after the key is in the ignition so long, the computer recognizes that it has to be the right keyto have the ignition on so long, so it resets the passlock . i have a 97 malibu , and it happens maybee every four months. but the trick always works.

Hey thanks, aaaroadside. That confirms it for me. Hey, do you know why it all of a sudden does it in the first place?

Read my upper post.
When it does it it should store a code in the body computer.
You need to read codes in the body pcm. It will point you to the problem.
MT

Read my upper post.
When it does it it should store a code in the body computer.
You need to read codes in the body pcm. It will point you to the problem.
MT


My security light started coming on again about a year after paying the dealership $450 to replace a faulty Ignition lock cylinder. I was at my wit’s end. My wife and kids would be stuck at night in some shopping center parking lot waiting 10 minutes to reset the stupid thing. I was able to Bypass, Disable or Ghetto Hack my passlock II anti-theft system on my 2002 Oldsmobile Alero without relays or resistors. I had my local Auto wiring tech install a $5 on/off toggle switch under my dash that is connected into the yellow (key resistance/code/recognition) wire that can be cut while the engine is running to essientially bypass passlock I(1) or II(2) permanently.(I do not have nor intend to install a remote starter and I do not have an alarm on this car.) The toggle switch idea came about because of my concern that a dealership tech could possibly reset the security “fail- enable” mode or the battery could die or become disconnected for an extended period of time and reset the intended fault. All I need to do is flip a switch to break the circuit again while the car is running to take the passlock system offline. When the system is offline, the security light is on constantly.(Not flashing.) I don’t mind the light, but others may want to remove the bulb or black it out. Here’s how the setup works:
1)Switch On while engine is running – Security system is on.(Factory Setting) Security light is off. (Circuit is complete.)
2)Switch Off while engine is running – Security system goes into “fail-enable” mode and bypasses the passlock system.. Security light is illuminated.(Circuit is broken.)
3)Switch On while engine is off – Security system is on (Factory Setting)
4)Switch Off while engine is off – Security system detects this as a theft attempt
and will not allow you to start the car until you flip the switch On to complete the circuit.(Acts as a FUEL KILL SWITCH.)
Below you will find a thread and some supporting evidence of why this bypass actually works. The entire job took 25 minutes. There is an incredible link below with high resolution pictures of the wiring for your specific car. I included the actual photos that I used to gain access to my ignition lock cylinder wiring. *Special note: those with GM Class II Data Bus should leave your radio connected during the entire procedure so nothing weird happens. If you are unsure if your car is so equipped, it’s best to leave the radio connected and let it hang. Good luck and post with your success stories! 12/4/05

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=59694&PN=1&TPN=1 Is this You? Get in your car....try to start it and find that the passlock II is screwed up again, you have to wait 10 minutes for it to reset. When it resets it starts up and runs fine. Fix-------Start the car, find the yellow wire that I'm sure you've read about, the rcode wire that is, and cut it. Shut off the car and you're done! The rcode wire on my 2001 alero is behind and to the left of the radio, you must take out the radio.....the yellow wire accompanies two other wires, the white and black, the 3 wires are alone and run inside what appears to be a cheap electrical tape that will fall apart in your hand when you start tugging on it, they are very thin wires, maybe 18 to 22. I taped off both ends of the yellow wire too.Took me about 14 days to find this out and reading no exageration 1000 posts. Forget all the relay, DEI and resister crap that I'm sure you've read about. All this writing assumes that this will continue to work.....i WILL be back here to post an update if it fails again. If you have doubts of me coming back to update a failure you can email me

http://www.insurorsservicebureau.com/ISB%20technical/ISB_QA.pdf page 4, The PASS Key Module also has the ability to allow engine operation if it recognizes a system fault in the ignition key reference circuit while the engine is running. In this case the Module enters and remains in a mode which allows the engine to be started and run without reading the resistance chip. This mode requires that the original factory resistance chip key be in the ignition lock
cylinder at the time the fault occurs. During this mode, the
security light will be ON all the time. When the key reference circuit is repaired, the module will automatically reprogram itself to the mode requiring the original resistance chip.

http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
system goes offline and the engine will start and run
with any key that turns the lock.
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=84&link=BULLDOG
http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=87&link=BULLDOG
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ and click on vehicle wiring diagrams to select your particular make.
Also how to disable Daytime Running Lamps http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html
2001 Olds Alero Locate the DRL relay in the main fuse box under the hood, it is #22 corresponding to the diagram on the underside of the fuse box cover. Remove the relay, snip pin 87, and re-insert.