drift

I have not been for awhile, So I was wondering how the turbo setup is? How much boost are you running? and is that the same through Vtec? (meaning does it dip in boost or anything similar when the vtec first ingauges?) Also What sort of power do you think she is making if you dont mind?

All the best :flash:

well, the turbo system came off a few days ago.

i was running 9psi peak on a stock bottom end. unfortunately, i blew out cylinder #3. on top of that, this cheap RevHard manifold warped twice and cracked in three places. my EGT's got a little too hot when the summer came around... had new injectors in my hand to fix the problem, but was too little too late. discovered the warped and cracked manifold when i was going to install the injectors.

there was about a half psi of boost drop at VTEC that i just couldnt tune out with cam timing... too much overlap on the stock cams. I was able to tune it out with an Apex'i AVC-R boost controller by upping boost about .5 bar at the VTEC x-over.

how's your SC system going?

oh yeah, the only number i have is 13.6 at Hallsville International Raceway against a friend of mine's WRX who ran a 13.9 in the 0-400m.

stock tyres, no LSD, no suspension modifications at the time.

Sorry to here about the problems. Dont u just hate it.
You posted a 13.6 now thats fantastic. I have not broken the barrier yet as my boost at vtec is dropping from 6psi to 4psi and the blower cant keep up. I am changing the blower pulley from a 5 inch to a 4 inch, so with a boost controller I expect to have a constant 7 - 8psi all the way though. I have not changed the internals either but I think it will be fine on 98ron fuel. If its not I dont really care, its just a bit of fun.
On the dyno I am making about 40% increase at warm temps probably 45% on a cold day (over a stock jap import). After the boost increase I hope to run above 50% over. It should set me up for the 13's
All the best :flash:

Im sure you already know this Mark, but make sure you dont run the blower above 12psi.

The teflon coating on the rotors melts, and well makes a mess of things.



And not meaning to hijack the thread, but are you running the blower continuesly and driving the car on a regular basis? or you still useing the clutch and some kind a of an on demand trigger, as it runs in the stock Toyota.

to help control the boost drop at VTEC x-over, I disabled the dual intake runner butterflies. as the secondary runners open up, the pressure drop occurs as it's trying to feed more volume.

pull the vacuum line connected to the solenoid to keep both sets of runners open then check your boost readings. also try dialing out the cam overlap... sounds like boost could be blowing straight thru the head, in the intakes, out the exhausts, during the VTEC lobe overlap. I had my intake cam set to -3, and exhaust cam set to +2 to dial out most of the overlap.

Drift I will have a play thanks. But the boost is still going to be pushed in until everything goes boom. Work is good so next year I might turn it into a full race car on a constant 10psi.
Moppie the car at the moment runs the electromagnetic clutch but is always on. As you would expect. When I put the other pulley on though the magnet will be coming off. I have spoken to a few blower joints and this should not be a problem as the blower speed does not exceed it maximum revs.:flash:

Originally posted by MARKUSIUDIUS
When I put the other pulley on though the magnet will be coming off.


Cool, I take it you've had another pully made up for the blower?
Not a bad idea, especialy with your custom mounting, pully size isnt really a problem.

However I do know that the head generated from making anything over 12psi of boost is enough to melt the teflon on the blower Rotors.
As long as you keep boost to below 12psi at the blower outlet then your sweet.

I have a mate with a MK1 MR2 thats making 11psi from an HKS crank pully, and its run for about 4 years with no blower problems. (its bascily the same blower as yours, but a about 300cfm smaller)