326whp/308wtq at 12psi.

http://nissaninfiniticlub.net/photopost/data/500/19378326whp_Graph.jpg
http://nissaninfiniticlub.net/photopost/data/500/19378256whp_Graph.jpg

EDIT: numbers went up because my runs on paper had max smoothing and these had zero smoothing.

326whp run was at .85-.87kg/cm2.(roughly 12psi)
256whp run was at .5kg/cm2(roughly 7psi)

These were the only two runs I did. Let this be a testimonail for what the GroundZero manifold can do!! Even with my Enthalpy tune w/2* retareded base timing for saftey in the Florida heat!!

What are the specs on the motor? Internals and all? I'm starting to gather parts for mine during the wonderful Chicago winter (it's 15 here) and am just looking for some inspiration and insight.

.....holy Shit.....

that is N.I.C.E how much money have you put into the engine???

I wanna be like you when i grow up...

43psi in tires???

Yea... Its what they say on the sidewall.

Very impressive, I'm glad I decided to go the ka-t route.

Ive never seen your car fanatic this is a BEAST!!!!

43psi in tires???


Yeah that seems kinda high, I was always told 32psi was the normal pressue should be.

Good numbers though, something for me too look up to after I sell my DAMN Eclipse. Be expecting some PM's when I do :iceslolan

my moms sedan is supposed to be 35, but it is 32 (remember from back in my mechanic days)

hey good #'s fanatic, your running a t3/t04e turbo right...i just picked up my KA24DE for free the other day, and after i get all the wiring figured out, im going to adding the T to that. i heard the GZ mani's tend to destort with heat...having any problem with that yet? on 12psi thats pretty good...

The norm is anywhere between 30 and 35, closer to 35, what's written on the sidewall is the maximum pressure the tire can safely handle, you shouldn't be putting anything near that. Go down to 35.

Impressive. have you lowered engine compression, yet?

nice

GZ manifold distorting? I have yet to hear the word of anything like that on KA-T.org where they are sold mainly.

great bro! who is tuning ur car?

Cory tunes his own car but I my be wrong.

im pretty sure he does. Thats nice fanat. How many miles on your engine again??

Im Cory's(Corey?) Official Spokespoerson...we will not be accepting anymore questions at this time but he has 132k-135k miles on his engine.
JKing about the whoel no mroe questions jazz.

Ehh?

Guys...come on.... Like I need advice on tire pressure???

Everything about my car is on my cardomain page.

Engine is bone stock, 139,7xx miles, 9.5:1 factory compression ratio, and is driven daily.

I'm using an Enthalpy tuned ECU and I tune out some fuel with SAFC past 5000rpm.

GroundZero manifold is sold on their website. http://www.groundzeromotorsports.com or contact Rick on KA-T.org Where did you hear that they distort with heat??? Every manifold expands some with heat, but no.... The head flange may be warped due to fabricating, but you can have that machined flat again. Rick and driftin180sx both used the manifolds with warped flanges and just torqued properly to re-form the headflange. They have no leaking issues.

The norm is anywhere between 30 and 35, closer to 35, what's written on the sidewall is the maximum pressure the tire can safely handle, you shouldn't be putting anything near that. Go down to 35.

this is very true. while 43 psi wont hurt too bad, if you measure 43 psi at 60 degrees, when it warms up to 80 and you start driving hard, it will spike the pressure up a lot and could cause a blowout.
just like speed rating. a tire rated at 110 can go well past that, but the speed rating is put there so a 110 tire will safely self destruct if it blows out under 110. if it blows going over 110, it can cause major accident.
they recommend 32-35 for a safety net, because thats the designed psi based on the weight of your car(look in the manual/doorjamb). especially if you put 43 psi on the same tires on a crx vs a suburban, bad things can happen. think about it.
but hey if it works for you, im not going to make you change.

more psi = better gas mileage right? (to a certain point) but fanat has previously stated that gas mileage = teh lose so whatever.

I've had these tires at 150mph at this pressure. I've had them at 130 too many times to remember. Its fine. Plus they are more responsive at that pressure.

If you lowered compression in your engine those numbers might be alot more impressive! Good job though!

If you lowered compression in your engine those numbers might be alot more impressive!

WTF...?? Okay, your turn!

He would have to turn up the boost after lowering the compression just to get the same numbers, then turn it up even more to get high numbers.

If you lowered compression in your engine those numbers might be alot more impressive! Good job though!

Lowering compression comes with a loss of power and response. He could get more power from it but it would require a larger turbo and a substancial jump in boost with all the reliability, upgrading, and lag issues that come with. If he were going for the really big power and doing a performance engine build anyway then lowering it would would make sense but for a daily driven car his current setup is pretty good.

Congrats on the car. That some pretty substancial power from a stock KA motor.

The only pro of running lower compression ratio is being able to make more power on a lower octane fuel. I would most definately run a lower compression ratio if I decided to build an engine(prolly 8.5:1), but for now, I'm content. Look through the KA-T results forums and see what other people make at 12psi;)

man u need to open a KA-T shope bro... trust me u will make $$$!

Suspension! lol. Fanatic, you have one of the best cars on here, but damn 150mph on stock suspension, breaks etc. Need to have balls to do that. On my civic I never go over 110 (well thats cause it take a while to go any faster lol) but if it could I would think about suspension for sure.

And the tire pressure is alright at that PSI, less roll. If it is in the rear= more oversteer, front=understeer. Plus higher speeds require higher pressure (to an extent of course).
I drive on freeways pretty often, I usually run (cold) 33 front, 35 rear. Thats in the morning in cold weather. Usually goes up to about 40psi on hot wheels.

congrats on the numbers bro..
very good for that psi for sure.
when are you rebuilding? im in the process right now, might as well the 240 is down for the winter...
im not going any lower than 9:1 compression just for the fact that i dont want to lose that much power off of the line with a gt35r turbo, not gonna help getting off the line much.
what are your plans as far as your rebuild goes? what kind of pistons rods, ect.
you planning on getting any cams or anything like that? i know you said before you wanted to auto x your car, whats your hp goals? still keeping the same turbo?
-tim

congrats on the numbers bro..
very good for that psi for sure.
when are you rebuilding? im in the process right now, might as well the 240 is down for the winter...
im not going any lower than 9:1 compression just for the fact that i dont want to lose that much power off of the line with a gt35r turbo, not gonna help getting off the line much.
what are your plans as far as your rebuild goes? what kind of pistons rods, ect.
you planning on getting any cams or anything like that? i know you said before you wanted to auto x your car, whats your hp goals? still keeping the same turbo?
-tim

Your saying that like if time was the only thing you needed to do a rebuilt. lol

Your saying that like if time was the only thing you needed to do a rebuilt. lol

Yeah, lol..money? Damn thats nice power. Good job. Are you going to keep running the TO4E if you do auto X?

Your saying that like if time was the only thing you needed to do a rebuilt. lol
it is... i dont drive my car i dont waste money on gas, or insurance, and then i can save for a rebuild....

it is... i dont drive my car i dont waste money on gas, or insurance, and then i can save for a rebuild....

Well I dunno how many people here make like 4000$ spare money in a winter.

I'm not rebuilding anytime soon. Kinda lost sight of that when I rode in Brian's(orion) S14(http://www.ka24development.com is his website). We pulled out and he took it to like 110 pretty easily. Obviously its not quite as fast as my car, but he makes up for it, trust me. So we are doing like 110 and coming up on a car quick. I thought he was gonna pass, but he said "nah, thats not too safe" and then hit the brakes. I went right into the seat belt like no other... Then while we were heating up the tires, man, his car will throw you from side to side like nothing... So I was like "I want my car to do that!" lol

But as far as when I ever do rebuild, I'll prolly go:

Wiseco 8.5:1 (.020" over)
Pauter rods
ARP rod bolts and head studs
balanced rotating assembly
magnafluxed block
decked block and head
everything else to factory spec.

If I had time/money to do cams, I would... But I must say that if my block was ready to go together and in my car, I would undoubtedly just throw that biatch together with stockers.haha

Cams are one of the next power mods on my list. One other thing that Brian's car had that I loved.... Power to 7000rpm... mmmm....

I only want to do lower compression ratio because I like to make power on pump gas on the street.

For building boost, you should do a two step....That will get you off the line quick!

Yea I am keeping the same turbo. My goals are still 400whp on the street/pump gas. This turbo will do very well for Autox.

Whats magnafluxed block? Never heard of that. If I ever build a 240 I would go with 8.5>X<9.0 compression and everything else similar to yours.
But I also really love handling, so I would definitely invest in coilovers, wide wheels, sways and breaks.

The guy you posted (Brian) has a really nice s14. Nicely balanced between power and suspension. Looks pretty good too.

Whats magnafluxed block? Never heard of that. If I ever build a 240 I would go with 8.5>X<9.0 compression and everything else similar to yours.
But I also really love handling, so I would definitely invest in coilovers, wide wheels, sways and breaks.

The guy you posted (Brian) has a really nice s14. Nicely balanced between power and suspension. Looks pretty good too.


magnafluxing is a way of checking for microscopic cracks that you can't see with the naked eye.

and yeah definitly go for brakes and suspension. but cory, when orion hit the brakes at 110mph, didn't he look the tires? i know if i hit the brakes hard enough, i'll just skid and have to do the human abs thing.

Well I dunno how many people here make like 4000$ spare money in a winter.
$4000?? you're getting taxed man.... i plan on spending around $2000 little bit less prolly.


cory: you could get a 48 a/r housing with a 57 trim, for auto x, that would prolly work better, just depends on the track i guess, but either way it will still be good...
lol, if i had all of my motor put together and all my parts except for cams, id be like screw that and id throw it in there too. even though i want some real bad, i dont think thats gonna happen any time soon.

-tim

The 57 trim won't work better. 50trim is the BEST sized turbo for the KA. And I get plenty quick spool with the .63ar housing.

No... orion's tires hook pretty well(Kuhmo MXs).lol Plus he can drive damn good.. I'm getting to the point where I can brake while hearing a very slight chirp. Right on the edge of traction loss...

His car is very clean. He has a lot of mods that you wouldn't see unless you looked for them..;) But damn... He only loses to the vettes, but I mean.. they're vettes... with race tires... and he's on street tires. What can you expect? Brian can fucking drive, and thats that.

New, clear pics are up.