Vibration

My car is vibrating when braking at speeds over 70mph the higher the speed the more visible the vibration is, could this be bad tires or bad brakes?

i've got not so good tires on mine, and it vibrates some...i imagine i have flat spots, or uneven tread wear, have you locked up your wheels lately? or is your tire pressure the right thing all the way around? also alignment will cause vibration if it is off enough... look into all of that stuff

sounds like the imfamous warped brake rotor to me

sounds like the imfamous warped brake rotor to me

Yeah, it does sound like warped rotors...now, where can you feel it. Is it in the brake pedal (if so its rotors), also if the steering wheel vibrates under brake only then its brakes. If your wheel vibrates normaly at speed without braking then its either allignment or tires.

Just a note: For anyone that would like to blame a manufactuer for warped rotors, i would think again. More than likely the reason your get warped rotors is because you do not let the pads "seed" into the rotors. Also, most rotors need a certain number of heat cycles to cure the rotor itself...if you put new pads and rotors on and then do some 100-0 hard stops, you are going to warp your rotors. If you put new shit on take a couple hundred miles to brake them in, they will last a lot longer and you wont have to replace rotors every time you need pads. Usually like 3 pad cycles per rotor cycle.

It could be both. I was having the samething happening to my car. First I thought that it was the rotors because I could feel it happening when I hit the brakes because the steering wheel viberated extremely bad. I went and had the front rotors replaced and the rear pads (front pads where at 50% so I left them alone. Rear where at 10%). I was told my rear rotors where not bad but I should look into replacing them soon, but anyways the samething still occured. A couple weeks later I was under my car and noticed that the inside of both of my rear tires where completely bald. I replaced my tires and afterwards about 90% of the viberation went away. I still haven't replaced the rear rotors but since I am getting some powerslot rotors and hawk pads for christmas I am not going to worry about it right now.

OK, so the insides of your rear tires bald faster than the rest of the tire? Mine does the same thing and it is pissing me off because it is loud as hell back there. Does anyone know why it does this, and will a new suspenssion fix it? Looking at the car from the rear it looks like the camber is set werid.

well it seem as though w/ all that weight from your stereo in the back, that you could use a new alignment, ur back end has to be squatting a little bit more than normal

Although I do have alot of weight in my trunk I doubt that it is entirely the sole cause of the tires balding that quick. The system has only been in the car for about 3 months and this started before I put the subs and box in the trunk. Probably needed a rear alignment when I bought it.

well it seem as though w/ all that weight from your stereo in the back, that you could use a new alignment, ur back end has to be squatting a little bit more than normal


See, i was kinda thinking the same thing...but then i thought about this. There is probably about 120lb of stereo back there, and that would be like riding with a chick in the back seat all the time...i dont think that would really make anything too bad. You think a rear allignment would fix the problem?

my car started vibrating when started i breaking going 120 mph. it vibrates now ever since, i am in dire need of brakes.

the problemm wiht the inside of the tire wearing away quicker is a Camber problem this also hapens when you drop a car(hapens to all cars) all you need is a camber kit or be like me and use a few high strength washers

my car started vibrating when started i breaking going 120 mph. it vibrates now ever since, i am in dire need of brakes.


Thats why you engine brake...

you can brake from that speed but u just dont slam on the brakes hard
you brake slowly and softly

Even better solution, don't drive a 120 mph and you won't have to slow down from a 120mph

Even better solution, don't drive a 120 mph and you won't have to slow down from a 120mph

:werd:
engine braking from any higher speed is your best solution unless you have high-performance brakes and pads that you are absolutely positive can withstand the heat

and i think that having a 120lb girl in the trunk of your car directly above your rear suspension 24/7 could cause some wear and tear on the suspension part causing it to not hold up quite as well, thats just a theory though:smokin: its not like you only riding in the car a max of 2-3 hours per day

if you get it fixed you'll have to get new tires too as well as an alignment
and if you have some extra money, i could use new tires too :icon16:

:werd:
engine braking from any higher speed is your best solution unless you have high-performance brakes and pads that you are absolutely positive can withstand the heat

and i think that having a 120lb girl in the trunk of your car directly above your rear suspension 24/7 could cause some wear and tear on the suspension part causing it to not hold up quite as well, thats just a theory though:smokin: its not like you only riding in the car a max of 2-3 hours per day

if you get it fixed you'll have to get new tires too as well as an alignment
and if you have some extra money, i could use new tires too :icon16:

engine braking is the worst idea. would you rather replace you rotors or your engine?

if you rear tires are getting bald on the inside more than any other part of the tire, and the car is lowered, you need a camber kit on the rear.

if your car vibrates while driving at speeds higher than 55mph while NOT braking, then its your tires.

if your car vibrates while you are braking(ie, the steering wheel shakes while braking), your rotors are warped

[QUOTE=eclipsed4utoo]engine braking is the worst idea. would you rather replace you rotors or your engine?]


I agree with that statement to a degree, and it would be your clutch, not your engine that would need replacing. I engine brake going down hills, and when im not in any hurry to stop. Otherwise I am very brake heavy, and my powerslot rotors show no sign of warping.

[QUOTE=eclipsed4utoo]engine braking is the worst idea. would you rather replace you rotors or your engine?]


I agree with that statement to a degree, and it would be your clutch, not your engine that would need replacing. I engine brake going down hills, and when im not in any hurry to stop. Otherwise I am very brake heavy, and my powerslot rotors show no sign of warping.

the synchros in the tranny will also be going pretty soon. i have never engine braked in my car. thats what i have brakes for. i also don't like having my engine constant revving at 4000rpms. i usually never get the rpms up that high.

the synchros in the tranny will also be going pretty soon. i have never engine braked in my car. thats what i have brakes for. i also don't like having my engine constant revving at 4000rpms. i usually never get the rpms up that high.


Different strokes for different folks...some people were taught to engine brake, some were not. Its a preference i guess more than anything. But it is a godsend in the snow.

yeah i'm not entirely for sure, but i do kno those rotors get super hot, and if you need to stop faster its likely not to happen, i prefer letting it in neutral and coasting if i have the time

Yes, even stock brakes are capable of "glowing the rotors". Obviously on a stock pad compound this is a wost case scenario, and if you are in fact glowing your rotors, your brake pedal probably feels like mashed potatoes, and any notion of stopping is long gone. After you roll to a stop more than likely there will be smoke and possible fire roaring from your wheels as your brake pads will be on fire...and then there is the smell...that god awfull, buring carbon smell. If you have smelled it once it will never leave your mind. After the fire goes out, and your fluid stops boiling...you needs new pads and rotors...possibly new lines, and fluid. Street cars are not race cars, nor can we expect them to perform like them. Having good brakes is just as important, if not more, than good "boogy".

yes indeed, good call, btw i think i answered your problem up above in case you didn't catch it

I am hoping that the 3 Farad and the 1.2 Farad Caps I am ordering next pay will help out though