Interior paint help...

Ok, I'm painting my interior and everytime I try to paint a smooth piece, this is what happens. It bubbles and looks like crap. It doesn't do it on anything except for the smooth pieces like the vents and stuff. What's wrong?
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Woah, I'm painting the same piece, but I don't have that problem. Perhaps you should try a different brand of primer, or try sanding it a bit.

Originally posted by Marc-OS
Woah, I'm painting the same piece, but I don't have that problem. Perhaps you should try a different brand of primer, or try sanding it a bit. well I preped it right, and I'm just going to wait a few days for it to completely dry and then sand it smooth and paint it again and that will work. I've had this problem before, and I can fix it. I was just wondering why it happens. :(

I will tell you the best and most effective way to do this, first sand it and then primer it, but when you spray the primer, hold it atleast 6 inches away if not about 8.. then do the same with your paint... 6-8 inches.. spray LIGHT even coats.. Be patient and go slow, spray a THIN even coat and walk away and go grab a coke and smoke a cig, then go back and spary another coat the same way, go get another coke and a cig and do this about 3 times or as many as it takes.. Then go over it with an acrylic clear coat, do about 5 coats for the ultimate sheen... Patience my friend is the most important thing you can have... Those spots you see are what is called "Grape-fruiting" or "Orange Peeling" hence the visual of either fruites skin... that means you are applying to much paint,,, when you do it, spray light, you will see speckles of paint gathering, yoru first coat you should still see a faintness of the previous color or material.. Let it dry do it again... Hope this gets you thru your mission... If you have any ??? Give me a hollor

It also can depend on the paint... my buddy tom used Rustoleum for metal, what a jackass :flipa:

But kicker, yeah just wait for it to dry, sand the orange peel off and LIGHTLY redo it ... takes time.

ive been wanting to paint some pieces but i decided not to cause i didnt know how the hell to get it off, hopefully some of you guys can shine some light. i want to take the black piece off. unfortuently its all one piece going from around the receiver and controls over to around the front consol.
http://www.qubilent.com/~shane/images/cf--aiwa%20receiver.jpg

Start where your arm rest is, undo the scres down inside it, there me a cover in there, just take it off, thenundo the screws, then gently tug and see where it offers resistance, you may have additional screws, if not take that piece off. Then you will see 2 more screws and you eventually get up to that black piece... There is a screw behind your glove box, and one under your steering column (steering column, just grab at the edge and tug, it just pops out.. I hope this works,, mine is a 97 remember, so it may be different, but it should be close enough....

Oh yea and take your shift knob off, should be a metal clip that slides or prys out... I had an automatic back in the day.. :)

thanks man, ill try that tomm. no time now, gotta work early in the morning:mad:
i think i might have described what i wanted to do incorrectly. i didnt mean the area around the shift/e-brake. just the black border around the radio and guage cluster. would you happen to know if the black piece around the radio comes off by itself, or do i have to take off the entire front panel(maroon)

Yea thats what I was talking about, starting from your arm rest will lead you all the way up to the dash.. I understood ya the first time buddy... :) Its all good... Just try it, you will see!! I'm still working on your request too...

Ok, I'm not stupid, I know how to paint. I did about 6 very light coats and this happens everytime on the smooth plastic. If I do it on the plastic that has texture to it, it's fine. But with the smooth plastic, even when I do extremely light coats, it does that crap.

hmmm, add some texture to it then?

dude, it's the paint. use a different brand.

i had the same problem before, mine looked just like yours....and i removed the paint and used another brand.....and everything is ok.

Originally posted by khead717
dude, it's the paint. use a different brand.

i had the same problem before, mine looked just like yours....and i removed the paint and used another brand.....and everything is ok. that's kinda what I was thinking, this is my second brand and it still does it. I've only had one brand of white that didn't do this, and I can't find it anymore. I guess I'll just have to look harder. So much for this $8 can of paint. :(

Ummm, what kind of paint are you using?

I used Krylon and Dupli-color somethin'. and both brand fucked up my dash. my dash and air vents look like crap now..:cry:

Originally posted by khead717
I used Krylon and Dupli-color somethin'. and both brand fucked up my dash. my dash and air vents look like crap now..:cry: I love the Dupli-color vinyl paint, it works so good for me. But they don't make it in white here. And every other kind of white I've used sucks ass. :(

I dont think its your brand of paint.
This is useualy caused by not cleaning the part good enough and degreasing it.

I used to work in a body shop and we would see that type of stuff especially on interior parts becuse people like to use armor-all.

silicon based shiners are the worst against paint.

I bet if you sand it off and soak it in some alcahol for about an hour and it will be better.

Oh and also Primer it before painting.

The alcohol will leave a residue, I'd recommend doing what BOOMER said, but rinse it off with soap and water afterwards. Can't beat glycerine!

hey what is a good brand of paint to use?

I used a Rustoleum primer, Krylon interior/exterior paint, and some Rustoleum crystal clear enamel. Here's the process I used, which works great, all the pieces came out beautiful (except for one which had some cigarette burns on it):

-Wash with soapy water to remove excess dust/grime.
-Swab with rubbing alcohol to remove any Armorall or similar petroleum product.
-Sand each piece with 320 grit paper
-Wash again with soapy water to remove particulates and rubbing alcohol residue.
-Mask off any areas that you don't want to get paint on!
-Spray primer (light light light sprays)
-After full coat of primer was achieved, sanded again with 320 grit.
-Wash with soapy water.
-Spray primer again.
-Sand again.
-Wash with soapy water again.
-Spray paint (light light light sprays)
-Estimated about 3 or 4 coats (MULTIPLE light sprayings each coat, leaving approx. 20 min. between coats)
-Let dry for a few hours.
-Spray clear enamel (estimated 4 or 5 coats, several light sprayings per coat, approx. 20 min. between coats)
-Let dry over night! The pieces may seem dry, but if you don't wait, it'll suck when you got to put the piece back in the car and have the paint peel back on an edge, or get a fingerprint right in the center of it!!!

Remember to take your time and spray LIGHT coats!!! also, be sure to let everything dry for a long time to be on the safe side!

yeah i just painted my dash and my door panels blue and am going to do the door handles blue also. It came out near perfect. I follow the steps everyone gave me and it was awesome. the was like you said to make sure it's hella clean and really sanded down well and smooth (which can take awhile)..then primer and spray super light coats..thanks eveyrone for the help.

Awesome. Post pics!

well, I started reading here today when I was looking for the best method to pain my Neon interior becuase when I did my Fiero, similar happened to the first post with the bubbling on the smooth spots. I went to Home Depot and got the materials, but they dont sell Krylong Interior/Exterior.

So I bought everything, so I thought from memory. I somehow totally forgot to get the Primer though. So I come home, and I have extra door guards (if thats what they are called), so I figured I would experiment with them first. I washed them with warm soapy water. Then I sanded with 320 Grit paper. Then I washed with rubbing alcohol. Then I sanded again. Washed with soapy water again. Taped off the ridges. Time to paint!

I went outside with the Primer (why the hell did I think I had the primer, I dont know). I actually had "Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel", which I bought as Clearcoat, which it also isnt. So I did a light coat of this, didnt think anything about it. I went out 30 minutes later to put the next coat on and noticed it started getting gray. I looked at the can and noticed it was gloss protective enamel. I was furious.

I let this dry. I then did a light coat of red. Let it dry. I did about another 3-4 layers, and it seems to be look nice. I let it dry. I took it in, untaped it, and it indeed looks nice. I had a little overspary but I think I can remove that with paint thinner.

I am going to do some other parts next, but here are some pics of what I have done. Not too bad for my first time, thanks guys!

-shiloh

afer the great results on the first pieces, i ventured onto my second piece - my dash.

after sanding it for about an hour with 320 grit paper, i visually examined it and it looked good. so I took it out to paint it. I applied layer after layer after layer. I looked at it this morning and a few spots i must not have sanded/cleaned well enough.

my question is this. how should i appriach repainting those spots?

thanks.
shiloh

you have to use paint thinner and get the paint off, resand, and repaint. it's really easy to paint interior pieces. i painted mine for the first time and it turned out perfect. you have to make sure everything is super smooth via sandpaper and then primer (actually i didn't really use primer, only on the big pieces) let each inndividual coats dry and cover entirely. you'll get bubbles and stuff ifyou have any dirt or you didn't sandpaper properly. otherwise you should n't have any bubbles and stuff like that eve.r

I work in a R&D lab for interior auto OEM paints. Looks like you may be using the wrong paint. Make sure it is quality grade interior paint. If it is, there is no need for primer if the parts are Vinyl or plastics. 3-4 coats to a dry film thickness of >.8 mils is recommended. Hope it solves your problem..:smoka:

No offense man, but that red looks hideous inside the blue car... Any plans to paint the exterior?

no offense taken.. the car is green and it will be painted black or dark dark grey as soon as i am done with everything else.

:P

I was curious... if my dash is a textured surface, do i still do all the sanding or should i just wash in soapy water, clean with rubbing alcohol, wash again, put on a light primer coat, 3 or 4 coats of the paint, and then 3 to 4 coats of the clearcoat.

I still sanded the textured parts of my interior... probably didn't really get sanded down in the little "cracks" of the texture, but didn't cause a problem...

what kind of primer do you guys use?

bulldog worked good for me

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probably on my upcoming 2 week paid vacation from work im going to take the door panels off and do them,not paint, maybe re-vinyl them in a different color, maybe the entire dash.

nice attempt on covering up your pussymatic transmission with a shift boot and a new shift knob..poser

thanks! :)

ah im just fukin wit u man..didnt mean to callu a poser in shit..my bad

didn't faze me none really
i just did it cause that shift knob that my boy gave me for my bday stuck out high as shit and looked fugly.....im buyin a mt car but unfortunately it won't be a civic, mazda mx6 just for a beater car...don't wanna use my civic as my daily driver no more

I like that look .... I may do it to the REX. Since the car is red, the accents will probably be the same color