Ls/vtec info

I have a 94 honda civic with a jdm b18b equipped with a b16 tranny. I previously had a jdm b16a swapped in the car and still have the motor. Im almost positive the rings in the b16 are shot, hense alot of N2O...
Ive found numerous guides on the net of how to perform head swap along with a list of the needed parts... but I am still a little weary about the bottom end of the b18b. Will arp rod bolts provide adequate protection from the 8000 rpm revs? What is the real problem with the bottom end? Would better rods, after market or from a b series vtec motor provide a reliable solution? Is there a cost effecient solution?

there was a good LS/VTEC write up a little while back....if you search you should be able to find it.....or if Ace finds this thread, he has an LS/VTEC and seems to know a lot about it....

Thanks for the help, I looked up all of the ls/vtec threads and Checked out the web page... Just to make sure, because it seemed everyone had different opinions...
I take my b18b block, put my b16a head on there, and im prolly going to have my head shaved slightly, but using the golden eagle conversion kit and dowl pins, If I put in some arp rod bolts will that be enough for the bottom end to hold 8000 rpms? and also, using all the stock ls internals, would you consider this to be a safe/reliable combination... I really only need this motor to run for about 8-9 months, or untill i graduate from college.

don't build it to just run for 8 or 9 months...that's just asking for trouble!

you'll also need to plug on the oil passage in the head and run an external oil line.

my LS rods with ARP rod bolts hold the 11.6:1 CR-VTEC just fine. and that's revving to 8500rpm.

don't build it to just run for 8 or 9 months...that's just asking for trouble!
Best thing said. Do it right worse to worse it'll last longer then needed.
When you make somthing half ass you'll get that out of it.

Justasol what are the specs on yours?

If planning to run LS guts get the ARP bolts well worth it.

Ok last question, If I have my head shaved .040 of an inch, and use a 2 layer head gasket, i wont have to work about the piston hitting the head right?

the reason i ask, I found a compression calculator from one of the past threads and with my setup, the piston to deck clearance is -0.026

dont shave your head with a thin head gasket .. the LS motor already dont really have the valve reliefs for vtec cams ..keep your stock head gasket and dont mill it..just put some mild cams in it like the itr or ctr cams .. and if you are strap for cash .. you can polish the intake and exhaust ports yourself .... use arp head and rod bolts and if you want to golden eagle also makes a block gridle like the gsr and itr for you .. i didnt use that on my crvtec because i dont beat on my motor ..if i race maybe ill take it to 7800 rpm's buyt i dont need to other thatn that if you drive in the 5000 rpm range mostly like me then dont run it just the arp head and rod bolts .. my motor is still strong and i have 2000 miles on it ..i know its still to early to tell but between now and dec 15 i know im going to put another 2000 miles on it ..im driving from NY to FL ^^ ..and i drive to canada alot ..thats 140 miles for 1 trip .. so just dont beat on your motor and it will be cheap