decal problems
HittenSwitches
11-24-2005, 12:38 AM
hey guys...i'm pretty new at building these...only done bout 4 or 5...the question i have is, the decals...i know the instructions say to dip in warm water, loosin the paper, n then apply it on...i'm finding that the decals aren't sticking well...n sometimes dries too fast n then the decal becomes useless...does anyone have some helpful hints? cuz i have some fast n the furious cars that really need their decals on the side to be original lol...n i don't wanna mess around
Lambo003
11-24-2005, 02:13 AM
By dipping in water, do you mean throwing the decal in there and letting it set for a while in the water?
If so, that's a big mistake. . . You actually dip the decal in or use a brush to apply water to the back of the decal. Let it set on a non-porous surface for a few minutes and the decal should slide right off onto the model. Leaving it in the water too long actually washes away the waterbased adhesive. . . which is probably why they aren't sticking for you.
Also, use a wetting solution on the surface prior to applying the decal, then squeegee out any excess water and air bubbles with a soft but firm brush.
hey guys...i'm pretty new at building these...only done bout 4 or 5...the question i have is, the decals...i know the instructions say to dip in warm water, loosin the paper, n then apply it on...i'm finding that the decals aren't sticking well...n sometimes dries too fast n then the decal becomes useless...does anyone have some helpful hints? cuz i have some fast n the furious cars that really need their decals on the side to be original lol...n i don't wanna mess around
If so, that's a big mistake. . . You actually dip the decal in or use a brush to apply water to the back of the decal. Let it set on a non-porous surface for a few minutes and the decal should slide right off onto the model. Leaving it in the water too long actually washes away the waterbased adhesive. . . which is probably why they aren't sticking for you.
Also, use a wetting solution on the surface prior to applying the decal, then squeegee out any excess water and air bubbles with a soft but firm brush.
hey guys...i'm pretty new at building these...only done bout 4 or 5...the question i have is, the decals...i know the instructions say to dip in warm water, loosin the paper, n then apply it on...i'm finding that the decals aren't sticking well...n sometimes dries too fast n then the decal becomes useless...does anyone have some helpful hints? cuz i have some fast n the furious cars that really need their decals on the side to be original lol...n i don't wanna mess around
D_LaMz
11-24-2005, 03:32 AM
microset and microsol
RallyRaider
11-24-2005, 03:33 AM
Looks like it might be time for another blitz by the grammar police. :mad:
Please have the courtesy to write in clear English, especially if you are asking for help. Many of our members are not native English speakers and will struggle with the abbreviated form of the language used above. Some of those people will be the ones who can help you most! Even for English speakers it is a pain.
Regarding your question, in addition to Lambo003's good advice, if the decal isn't sticking you can use some water based PVA woodworking glue to replace the lost adhesive. Only a tiny bit is required, watered down often works best. Others have used Future floor polish for the same thing, never tried it myself.
If the decal is sticking too fast it could be because the surface of the model is too dry. Wet it with a clean brush, cotton bud or tissue before placing the decal. That way there is a cushion of water for the decal to slide on so you can position it perfectly.
If you're really serious there are all manner of decal solutions available, as well as using techniques like hot cloths and even a hairdryer. Although they often need a bit of practice to use successfully.
EDIT: Oh and a gloss surface is best too. Matt finishes will lead to "silvering" (bubbles under the surface) and less adhesion. If you need a matt finish, first do it gloss, apply decals and matt coat after. It's what the top military modellers do.
Please have the courtesy to write in clear English, especially if you are asking for help. Many of our members are not native English speakers and will struggle with the abbreviated form of the language used above. Some of those people will be the ones who can help you most! Even for English speakers it is a pain.
Regarding your question, in addition to Lambo003's good advice, if the decal isn't sticking you can use some water based PVA woodworking glue to replace the lost adhesive. Only a tiny bit is required, watered down often works best. Others have used Future floor polish for the same thing, never tried it myself.
If the decal is sticking too fast it could be because the surface of the model is too dry. Wet it with a clean brush, cotton bud or tissue before placing the decal. That way there is a cushion of water for the decal to slide on so you can position it perfectly.
If you're really serious there are all manner of decal solutions available, as well as using techniques like hot cloths and even a hairdryer. Although they often need a bit of practice to use successfully.
EDIT: Oh and a gloss surface is best too. Matt finishes will lead to "silvering" (bubbles under the surface) and less adhesion. If you need a matt finish, first do it gloss, apply decals and matt coat after. It's what the top military modellers do.
HittenSwitches
11-24-2005, 08:50 AM
hey guys, thanks alot for the help...well i was going to just put the decals on, and then gloss coat it with Testors lacquer all at once...will that have any bad effects? like i've heard that sometimes clear coats can eat away at the decals and i don't want that to happen lol
Cold_Fire
11-24-2005, 09:31 AM
I've never had problems with any coat after the decals.
I'll give you most of the points I look when setting decals, perhaps you can take some advice.
Water is important. Decals work with cold water but experience will show you that warm water is very recommended, having a vacuum flask is handy. It's important to change water frequently.
The surface is really important. It must be as glossy as possible. Gloss varnish is good, polished paint is good, future is great.
The moment of cutting decals out from the sheet is a good moment to switch to a new blade. Try to eliminate as much transparent support as possible.
Working with decals is much easier with MicroSet and MicroSol, two products from microscale.
While the decal is in the water, wet the surface with a bit of microset.
Then get the decal out of the water, "attached" to the back thick paper yet, and move it to the model. Slide the decal from the paper to the surface of the model with the help of a thin flat brush.
Very carefully set the decal in its exact place with the help of the brush, having the surface wet with Microset should help you to move it easily.
Very carefully touch lightly the decal with the brush, from the centre to the sides. With this we try to take as much air out of the decal as possible.
Now the best is to let it dry by itself, but you could accelerate it with a hairdryer or the heat of a lamp.
Once it has dryed, take a look at the decal. If it looks good for you, the job is done. If there are bubbles under the decal or if it has not adjusted 100% to the surface, we'll need microsol.
For bubbles, prick in the centre with a pin, then apply microsol with the brush and push with it to help the air to get out. Wet it with microsol and let it dry (now it's much better to let it dry without "help").
If the decal has to adjust more to the surface, wet it with microsol and let it dry. You can repeat this until the decal adjusts perfectly to the surface. In this way you can cover with decals any difficult surface, like the dashboard of the ferrari enzo using carbon fiber decals, for example.
After you have set decals, it's necessary another gloss coat. The way to "hide" the transparent support of the decals and most parts of the edges is to put the decals between good gloss coats.
This is the way I work with decals. I think that it's easy to get very good results, you just need some patience and method.
Sorry if you don't understand anything of my english, I'm from Spain.
Regards
I'll give you most of the points I look when setting decals, perhaps you can take some advice.
Water is important. Decals work with cold water but experience will show you that warm water is very recommended, having a vacuum flask is handy. It's important to change water frequently.
The surface is really important. It must be as glossy as possible. Gloss varnish is good, polished paint is good, future is great.
The moment of cutting decals out from the sheet is a good moment to switch to a new blade. Try to eliminate as much transparent support as possible.
Working with decals is much easier with MicroSet and MicroSol, two products from microscale.
While the decal is in the water, wet the surface with a bit of microset.
Then get the decal out of the water, "attached" to the back thick paper yet, and move it to the model. Slide the decal from the paper to the surface of the model with the help of a thin flat brush.
Very carefully set the decal in its exact place with the help of the brush, having the surface wet with Microset should help you to move it easily.
Very carefully touch lightly the decal with the brush, from the centre to the sides. With this we try to take as much air out of the decal as possible.
Now the best is to let it dry by itself, but you could accelerate it with a hairdryer or the heat of a lamp.
Once it has dryed, take a look at the decal. If it looks good for you, the job is done. If there are bubbles under the decal or if it has not adjusted 100% to the surface, we'll need microsol.
For bubbles, prick in the centre with a pin, then apply microsol with the brush and push with it to help the air to get out. Wet it with microsol and let it dry (now it's much better to let it dry without "help").
If the decal has to adjust more to the surface, wet it with microsol and let it dry. You can repeat this until the decal adjusts perfectly to the surface. In this way you can cover with decals any difficult surface, like the dashboard of the ferrari enzo using carbon fiber decals, for example.
After you have set decals, it's necessary another gloss coat. The way to "hide" the transparent support of the decals and most parts of the edges is to put the decals between good gloss coats.
This is the way I work with decals. I think that it's easy to get very good results, you just need some patience and method.
Sorry if you don't understand anything of my english, I'm from Spain.
Regards
klutz_100
11-24-2005, 10:04 AM
Wow! A decal "How to" ! Some very useful answers there for me - Thank you :bigthumb:
white97ex
11-24-2005, 10:08 AM
hmm......so is it really that bad to let them sit in water? I have been using that method since I began building models. They never set in the water until the float, they typically need a little help separating from the sheet. I have yet to have any problems at this, but I have begun using SMS CF decals, any comments?
speedphreak
11-24-2005, 11:15 AM
Please don't "prick" the decal!!! If there are any bubbles or excess water underneath.....Use a Q-Tip and be patient and rub the Q-Tip from the middle to the edges. I have done this and it makes the decal completely flat and beautiful. If you poke or prick tyhe decal you will have a mark on it and it wont look good at all..lol...IMO.
-Chris
-Chris
Cold_Fire
11-24-2005, 11:32 AM
What is a Q-Tip? :)
klutz_100
11-24-2005, 03:37 PM
cotton bud on a stick (double ended) used to claem babies' and my ears LOL
HittenSwitches
11-25-2005, 08:39 AM
HAHA coldfire where are u from that u have never heard of a q-tip? thats jokes lol...but yea thanks for the tips guys, worked on my supra n had no problems with the decals and clear coats now...but also i agree with using q-tips for the bubbles, i'd rather not have marks on my car, but instead a nice clean finish that looks presentable ;) lol
Cold_Fire
11-25-2005, 08:46 AM
The problem wasn't that I don't know what a q-tip is, the problem was that I don't know how it's said in english.
RallyRaider
11-25-2005, 09:21 AM
HAHA coldfire where are u from that u have never heard of a q-tip? thats jokes lol...but yea thanks for the tips guys, worked on my supra n had no problems with the decals and clear coats now...but also i agree with using q-tips for the bubbles, i'd rather not have marks on my car, but instead a nice clean finish that looks presentable ;) lol
Did you not get the previous hint, or are you simply ignoring it? Again this is an INTERNATIONAL forum, don't be small minded. By continuing to be ignorant you just make people from Canada look bad. You also bring the tone of the whole forum down. There are plenty of other places on the internet you can frequent if you don't like the standards here. Although ignorance possibly isn't welcome there either...
Did you not get the previous hint, or are you simply ignoring it? Again this is an INTERNATIONAL forum, don't be small minded. By continuing to be ignorant you just make people from Canada look bad. You also bring the tone of the whole forum down. There are plenty of other places on the internet you can frequent if you don't like the standards here. Although ignorance possibly isn't welcome there either...
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