'01 LS failing to start

I have an '01 LS (3.0L V6, Automatic Trans.), recently it started to (well isn't that a funny choice of wording, since it doesn't start at all) have a slow start. Would just crank and crank and not turn over, then I would get annoyed, walk away, have a cig and come back to it, then it would start right up. This happened for a few days, always after it had sat for an extended period of time, like in the morning or at the end of the work day, but if I tried to go somewhere mid day it would start right up.

Well now it isn't starting at all. I'm sorry for making a new thread about this, but the only things I could find on here about it were multiple pages back. I saw that the pcm being reflashed may be the answer. What I'm trying to figure out though is this going to be a warrenty item. My bumper to bumper is recently expired, but I see that ford/lincoln has their emmission warrenty that covers the pcm for 8/80k, which I most def. fall in. Can I simply call them up and say reprogram this, or am I going to have to pay them just to look at the damn thing and just cross my fingers that it is something covered.

Another unusual thing I noticed was that when I was trying to figure out the problem I noticed the fuel pump reset button was in the depressed position, I hadnt touched the thing but it was down. Not sure how relivant this is to the problem at hand, but just odd, and it didnt appear to be spring loaded or anything, to have it undepressed, I physically had to pull it back up.

Any suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated, since it's the day before thanksgiving and god knows how long it will take to get this fixed. Before I pay for a tow and such, wondering if there is anything else I may be able to do.

Thanks,
Kimbrosj

I have an '01 LS (3.0L V6, Automatic Trans.), recently it started to (well isn't that a funny choice of wording, since it doesn't start at all) have a slow start. Would just crank and crank and not turn over, then I would get annoyed, walk away, have a cig and come back to it, then it would start right up. This happened for a few days, always after it had sat for an extended period of time, like in the morning or at the end of the work day, but if I tried to go somewhere mid day it would start right up.

[snip]

Another unusual thing I noticed was that when I was trying to figure out the problem I noticed the fuel pump reset button was in the depressed position, I hadnt touched the thing but it was down. Not sure how relivant this is to the problem at hand, but just odd, and it didnt appear to be spring loaded or anything, to have it undepressed, I physically had to pull it back up.

[snip]

Thanks,
Kimbrosj

Sometime when the car doesn't want to start you should check the fuel pressure and check it for spark. Those are two nearly critical bits of info that will probably be needed by most to zero in on the culprit. How recently have you replaced the fuel filter? Ever had the fuel pump replaced? Also, you might want to start by adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner to the tank of gas and driving that car nearly empty before refueling. Maybe you have a dirty injector or low fuel pressure. After letting the car sit for a few moments, when you turn the key back on, the fuel pump primes the system again, giving you enough fuel to get the car to start.

Also, on the fuel pump shut off switch, normal should have the switch plunger in the depressed (reset) position. When the switch trips due to a jolt to the system, the plunger will stand up. Inside the switch there is a magnetic cone and a steel ball. The switch plunger is spring loaded to pop up, but when reset there is a lever that holds the plunger down and the electrical contacts closed. If the switch receives a large enough jolt, the steel ball will overcome the magnetic attraction and tap a large paddle. The paddle moves the lever out of the way and the spring loaded plunger pops up. When it pops up, the electrical contacts open, cutting battery voltage to the fuel pump.

-Rod

Mine will just crank and crank but not fire. But if i pump the gas it will start but will not stay running. Any suggestions

Dolphy,
Pumping the gas on a fuel injected (FI) car accomplishes nothing. There is no accelerator pump like on a carbureted engine. Most FI cars have a fuel cut-off routine set up to engage when you floor the accelerator pedal. This is put in place to help start a flooded engine. My guess would be that you have one or more leaking injectors causing a flooded condition.

Kimbrosj, I've had two cars with a similar condition. In one case, it was a cam position sensor, in the other it was a crank position sensor. Now, I didn't check at the time, but it may be that both performed the same function: Spark timing. I know the crank sensor was for spark timing, but I'm not as sure about the cam sensor.

Regardless, my experience points heavily toward one or the other.

Well, pumping the accelerator will open the throttle plate to allow more air into the engine. If the Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid is not working or if the idle air bypass passages are plugged, slightly opening the throttle may help start the car.

dolphy, you mention the car will not stay running. Does it die when you let off the throttle? If so, I'd suggest removing the IAC solenoid and cleaning it, along with the passages and the throttle body. If you spray too much cleaner into the throttle body, you may flood the cylinders while cranking and risk hydro-locking the engine. I'd recommend you pull the plugs and crank the engine with the plugs removed a few times to get the cleaner out of the cylinders, put the plugs back in and start the car. I know, this is not fun. Oh, put rags over the spark plug holes to absorb the fluid, otherwise it will end up all over the fenders, engine, and walls of your garage.

-Rod