A/C and temp meter problem

Hi...

This are my problems :-

1. A/C sometimes blow a cold air sometimes the air is hot.... what happen?

2. I've noticed that everytime my A/C fan rpm increase, the temp goes down. Is it normal or the temp meter has gone haywire?


Thanks..... Need as much help that i can get since my kia has cost me thousands and believe me the car cost in my country is not that cheap although it was a 7 years old sportage...

1. A/C sometimes blow a cold air sometimes the air is hot.... what happen? ...
I understand when you run the heater/AC blower with A/C ON, the air is not always cold. THis could indicate a low refrigerant level. However, I'd check if this corresponds with ON and OFF cycles of the A/C compressor. WIth hood open, check if the A/C compressor clutch clicks ON and OFF and if these cycles coincide with hot/cold air periods. It is possible it cycles at abnormal pressure..this can depend on the condition of the pressure switch. ALso, verify that the radiator cooling fan runs normally.


2. I've noticed that everytime my A/C fan rpm increase, the temp goes down. Is it normal or the temp meter has gone haywire?
...

..heard that before: needle changes position depending on fan speed: running fan at high speed draw more current and changes voltage somewhat and modifies meter reading. Probably a bad ground or corroded feed conductor somewhere..I'll try to find the post that dealt with that problem some time ago and post a link if I find. Bad ground may also play tricks and cause erraneous compressor clucth control....thus your other problems.

Thanks for the info LMP. I'll get my ground check soon. Btw, yesterday i sent my sportage for head gasket change. Everything was fine untill i drove the car and it suddenly stall. I tried to start the car but it wont start untill the mechanic came and unplug the faulty power window fuse and the car starts fine. Is it normal for sportage to stall everytime the fuse blow or my wiring need to be rewired?

Thanks....

See this:
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/PowerDist.jpg
Power windows as such should not stop engine from starting, apparently.....but I have not traced down everything yet in power distribution, a little bit confusing.... Anyway, one thing has to be learned: one should NOT operate (open/close) more than one window at a time. BLown fuse have been reported frequently due to this "abuse".

EDIT: specific power window fuse as such does not stop engine...but if it is the main fuse that blows, then all will go dead.

Thanks again for the input LMP.

Thanks again for the input LMP.

are the main fuse located next to the power window fuse? I think that was the problem... First the engine fail to start. Then i tried to open the window and suddenly everything went dead.... LMP, do u have any picture and description of the fuse since my fuse box dont have description of the fuse on it.

Thanks...

Here is photo of the fuse box description . Kia did not even manage to have that in the owner's manual.
Fuse box inside:
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/FusesIN.jpg

main fuse under hood , in small box beside battery.
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/FusesOUT.jpg

The fuse that blown was the Ignition Fuse. I guess that the reason my car stalled and fail to start at the first place. Thanks a lot LMP.

Probably a bad ground or corroded feed conductor somewhere..I'll try to find the post that dealt with that problem some time ago and post a link if I find. .

Search revealed lots of ground problems solved by redoing ground cable from battery to intake manifold and ground to firewall.

You can also read through

THIS (www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=565173)
and
THAT (www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=571338)
example.

I've notice that at some accessories shop there a ground cable. Is it possible to improve my grounding problem by installing this cable?

I've notice that at some accessories shop there a ground cable. Is it possible to improve my grounding problem by installing this cable?
If you have a voltmeter, I suggest you measure the voltage between the NEGATIVE battery pole and some point elsewhere on the car body, the firewall is a good one, and keep measuring while someone activates lights, blower, wipers and the like. Ideally, voltage frop should stay zero, practically you should never measure more than a fraction of a volt, 0.2 or the like. More than that, you have a ground problem and all means to solve it, either custom or marketplace, are good.

Thanks LMP. I'll get the ground cable install immediately. Btw, some said that a proper grounding will improve performance. Is it true?