Got the money!

As you guys could tell by the topic. little help please

I got 7g with well like 4month of credit haha. Im thinking of getting

05 zx6r, or 05 R6 ? which one would you guys pick?

Or should i just go with like 03 models and with the left over

money buy gears? what you guys think i should do?

questions on security. alarm any good? what security stuff is good

to put on the bike?

thank you guys for your input.

Is this your first bike? How do you intend to use it? What characteristics of a bike are most important to you?

As far as security goes, just lock it away well at your house when you're not riding it, and use the steering lock and a disc lock when out in public. Theres nothing to stop someone from throwing a 350lb sportbike in the back of a pickup truck in a matter of seconds and hauling it away, so something like an alarm would be a waste of money. Your best bet would be to try to park near a fixed object and use a kryptonite lock or something similar through the swingarm and around the object. Unfortunately stealing a bike is much easier than stealing a car.

i have been riding my friends bike(600cc)for like 6month and now im thinking of getting my own (first bike).
streets and maybe tracks.
ty guys
Should i go with a salvage 04 zx6r mileage 6,500 for $5,500?
its all checked and really.
salvage or clean what you guys think?

i would pick the r1 because it looks much sharper than other sportbikes. if you don't have any money for gear then you should definetely buy the 03 models.

I wouldn't go with the salvaged bike, that price seems a bit high for a slavage-titled bike especially this time of year. Look around and make some deals... see what else is out there.

Just my opinion.

i would pick the r1 because it looks much sharper than other sportbikes. if you don't have any money for gear then you should definetely buy the 03 models.

R1 is a bad idea, as is Busa for a first bike.

thanx guys

R1 is a bad idea, as is Busa for a first bike.

So is any superbike, 600's included.

So is any superbike, 600's included.

That's a contradiction, you were recommending F2 on the other thread. I don't judge bikes by CCs anymore, but just based on power to weight ratio and how radical the chasis is. If you're referring to new 600 supersports, then it makes sense, but still, they're not as lethal as 180 hp bike that'll power wheelie/spin up rear/headshake on all gears, and weighs almost the same as a 600.

That's a contradiction, you were recommending F2 on the other thread.

An F2 is nowhere near comparable to something like a 600RR. An F2 can make a great learner bike in my opinion. I can't think of any situation that I'd suggest a 600RR, though. Too track oriented and unforgiving.

I don't judge bikes by CCs anymore, but just based on power to weight ratio and how radical the chasis is. If you're referring to new 600 supersports, then it makes sense, but still, they're not as lethal as 180 hp bike that'll power wheelie/spin up rear/headshake on all gears, and weighs almost the same as a 600.

The new 600's are just mini superbikes. They're getting lighter and lighter and the power figures dwarf that of literbikes from a decade ago. It's just as easy to get into trouble on the street on a 600 as it is a 1000. They are all way too hyper for real world driving scenarios. And I've never ridden a completely stock 600 in an aggressive manner, and I know literbikes are definitely more of a handful to turn laps on, but my R6 will spin up the rear on many corner exits, and power wheelies/headshake are not a rare occurance. My point being it's a lot of motorcycle to control when being pushed to the limit, at least in my opinion.

R1 is a bad idea, as is Busa for a first bike.

my bad (typo) i meant r6

I do agree with your general opinion on the matter, but there are few imperfections in the argument.

An F2 is nowhere near comparable to something like a 600RR. An F2 can make a great learner bike in my opinion. I can't think of any situation that I'd suggest a 600RR, though. Too track oriented and unforgiving.

That depends on what grounds you're comparing with, have you tried taking the F2 in 1st/2nd gear above 11K rpm on full throttle in a corner exit and see how the rear behaves? I would assume depending on traction, the rear should drag at least. With still that much peak hp, I would think physics and traction would play its course. Now as for not suggesting 600rr to anyone, well that argument ends with why have sportbikes on the street at all? They have been too powerful on the street to begin with, going above 130 mph, accelerating much faster than a car, and this is going back to the late 70s during the time of CB750s and Kawi H1s, before GSXR750 came around. If you mean suggesting 600RR to a newb is irresponsible, then I agree, but people buy them anyway for poser factor, like R1 for a first bike. Overall, general straight line junkies buy these bikes because of looks and raw acceleration, and they always will no matter how powerful.

The new 600's are just mini superbikes. They're getting lighter and lighter and the power figures dwarf that of literbikes from a decade ago.

Agree, but if you stay off the powerband, they're still considered tamed when compared to the likes of ZX-10R, there's always bigger fish. Used to be that 250 cc two cylinders were too much, but as things progress, people just go with the flow. Lot of people are picking up older literbikes for a first bike, difference is now we hit a point where this much is too much. A literbike these days will spin up or wheelie anywhere above 3000 rpm on throttle while upright or otherwise, nowhere near its powerband, 600 ccs aren't there yet.


It's just as easy to get into trouble on the street on a 600 as it is a 1000. They are all way too hyper for real world driving scenarios. And I've never ridden a completely stock 600 in an aggressive manner, and I know literbikes are definitely more of a handful to turn laps on, but my R6 will spin up the rear on many corner exits, and power wheelies/headshake are not a rare occurance.

Besides power, spinning up has a lot to do with the tires you run. I'm also guessing you're on the powerband when you're spinning up and in one of the three lower gears. If not, your tires are really slippery. More than anything else, it's just traction vs power. And bikes obviously have less traction when you're at a significant lean and entering the corner exit. I bet you could still spin up a F2, may be with one gear lower than on your R6. Wheelies... again, I have yet to see a stock R6 that would powerwheelie below the powerband, nowhere near crazy as the R1. Headshakes has a lot do with suspension setting, sometimes tire, and basically bumps on the road, which can be amplified by the severity of your grasp on the throttle. Because of the power and shorter wheelbase, it's more apparent of newer bikes, thus we have steering dampers, but it was never out of the equation on older bikes like F2s. In fact, the older Fireblades were notorious for having headshakes. Getting into trouble is still debatable and depends on case by case, take that F2 and hit the powerband near other cars, I bet it would still be handful.

My point being it's a lot of motorcycle to control when being pushed to the limit, at least in my opinion.

In context to newbs riding these bikes, again, they shouldn't be pushing any limit on any bike just yet. Ninja 250 would be tame on acceleration and would confidence-inspiring when diving into corner, but if you're significantly carrying more speed that what you're used to, then there are a lot of variables that can go wrong. I have heard of incidents of 250s highsiding because rear spun out.

My point was 1000 CCs are just unreal, and one needs to be very cautious of the ham-fist on any rpm, 600/750s are still manageble below 8K rpm. Or somewhere along the lines of - 120 rwhp @ 420 lbs or 110 rwhp @ 390 lbs, plus the weight of rider. All those promo about 350lbs-360lbs 600 ccs are dry weight figures. Of course this is just relative to those who already has riding experience, doesn't apply to someone who never rode a bike before. Because of this, 600s aren't a deathwish like literbikes, this is why significantly, more survive starting on a 600s. Those who start on a literbike and make it long enough without a scar, are extremely lucky.

That depends on what grounds you're comparing with, have you tried taking the F2 in 1st/2nd gear above 11K rpm on full throttle in a corner exit and see how the rear behaves? I would assume depending on traction, the rear should drag at least. With still that much peak hp, I would think physics and traction would play its course.

Exiting a corner with that much engine rev at full throttle will guarantee the rear sliding out on my F2. It doesn't even take that much throttle to do it. In first gear the rear end will start to dance at full throttle around 6krpm exiting a turn. Even in straight line if you do it right the tires will just start spinning for a good 2krpms before it catches. I don't know if any of you have ever driven an F2, but they aren't much slower than some of the newer 600s out there.

I've driven an 01 R6 and my bike felt just as quick. Granted this is cause my bike isn't stock, it still doesn't take anything away from the F2s. Stock numbers for 1/4mi times are 11.3s on them. The power to weight ratio is still pretty good on the F2s. Around 400lbs and 100hp at the crank.

I would also like to say that any sport bike is going to require more effort to drive which IMO isn't the best idea for a new rider. I still wouldn't even recommend an F2 as a first bike, but since technically it was mine, I can't really say its out of question.

Even my best friends 04 SV1000 is easier to flick through the corners than my old F2. Even with all that torque and power, the riding position and the overall balance of the bike will make a novice rider feel a lot more confident. Im not recommending a SV1000 though (too much power), a 650 would be a better choice.

I'll bet that F2 of yours is more stable than the SV1000, what you lose in flickability, you gain twice as much on stability :D.

And I'm not pulling that out of my rear, having owned both SV650 and F4, I can say this with assurance. Ducati superbikes aren't the most flickable bikes out there, but what makes them so track savy is their train-like stability like no other.

Anyway, in regards to 600s, even the old FZR (used to own) and F1 Hurricanes, depeding on how you churn the power, there's so much power available. But if you turn the throttle like you gas a Corolla, lol, they won't misbehave like big bore bikes.

What kind of mods do you have on that F2? What's the mileage?

I'll bet that F2 of yours is more stable than the SV1000, what you lose in flickability, you gain twice as much on stability :D.

And I'm not pulling that out of my rear, having owned both SV650 and F4, I can say this with assurance. Ducati superbikes aren't the most flickable bikes out there, but what makes them so track savy is their train-like stability like no other.

Anyway, in regards to 600s, even the old FZR (used to own) and F1 Hurricanes, depeding on how you churn the power, there's so much power available. But if you turn the throttle like you gas a Corolla, lol, they won't misbehave like big bore bikes.

What kind of mods do you have on that F2? What's the mileage?

Well I don't know, that SV he has is pretty nice. It really feels a lot easier to drive than my F2. I think its mainly since its practically brand new. But I do understand what you mean by stability because it doesn't take much throttle on that thing to shit your pants and get you into some trouble :grinno: . But IMO it feels more stable than my F2.

The first time I rode it we both switched bikes out on some country roads. All I remember is riding beside him taking it easy and I hear my bike start to scream as he downshifts so all I did was just smack the throttle at around 5k and holyshit...talk about whiplash! I couldn't believe the amount of torque that was available. The powerband starts about as soon as you hit the throttle. He does have a full yosh exhaust and a powercommander which he admits makes a huge difference, and I would have to agree.

Milage has just past 23k on my F2, but it still runs extremely strong. The transmission is all you could ever image one to be. Its direct and smooth as a babies behind. The only niche I have about is the long throw between 1st and 2nd. The previous owner had put a yosh pipe on it, new sprockets and chain (up 3 rear, down 1 front), kn filter, and he told me he had it jetted. After riding it and feeling the way the powerband is, I believe him. How else would I be able to stay up with newer 600s? I'm not saying its faster than the 600RRs and the new gsxrs and r6s, but it will stay up with (and in some instances pull on) anything other than the newest 600s. So far i've seen 150 on the speedo with a little more room to spare, so IMO it really hasn't lost much of anything through the years.

Exiting a corner with that much engine rev at full throttle will guarantee the rear sliding out on my F2. It doesn't even take that much throttle to do it. In first gear the rear end will start to dance at full throttle around 6krpm exiting a turn. Even in straight line if you do it right the tires will just start spinning for a good 2krpms before it catches.

If that is the case, something is wrong. Either you're on extremely hard touring rubber that is unsuitable for any kind of performance riding, or perhaps you've got some very poor suspension settings/problems. There is just no reason that the symptoms you describe should ever happen on that particular bike. The F2 was good for ~74 horsepower at the rear wheel in stock form, low 80's jetted and piped. My 02 R6 is putting down ~110 at the rear wheel, jetted, piped, and dyno tuned, and there is no way I'm going to be able spin up the rear in a straight line through throttle inputs. My previous bike had similar power output to an F2, and even being a twin I did not have any real issues with slides, but I always ran appropriately sticky rubber. To experience some of the symptoms you describe on that particular bike one would have to be TRYING to crash.

If that is the case, something is wrong. Either you're on extremely hard touring rubber that is unsuitable for any kind of performance riding, or perhaps you've got some very poor suspension settings/problems. There is just no reason that the symptoms you describe should ever happen on that particular bike. The F2 was good for ~74 horsepower at the rear wheel in stock form, low 80's jetted and piped. My 02 R6 is putting down ~110 at the rear wheel, jetted, piped, and dyno tuned, and there is no way I'm going to be able spin up the rear in a straight line through throttle inputs. My previous bike had similar power output to an F2, and even being a twin I did not have any real issues with slides, but I always ran appropriately sticky rubber. To experience some of the symptoms you describe on that particular bike one would have to be TRYING to crash.

Yes I think the rubber I'm on is what is causing it. The rear end has Bridgestone Battlax BT54s which from further searching are classified as a sport/touring tire. So yea, its kinda crap but I do like the tread life. I really don't want to replace it until I need to and there is still at least another 4k miles of life left on them. As for now with the weather being a bit colder ill just leave it on until next season.

So yea I think you are right about the rubber. After reading some reviews about other people switching to stickier tires from the BT54s they say it made a huge difference.

My 02 R6 is putting down ~110 at the rear wheel, jetted, piped, and dyno tuned, and there is no way I'm going to be able spin up the rear in a straight line through throttle inputs.

That's some incredible gain right there, are you sure it's just jetted and slip on exhaust and dyno tuned? How much weight did it lose? What sort of jetting (stage 1, 2, 3, etc) and dyno tune was it? Any of the sprockets regeared? That is 05 ZX-6R territory. The 01-02 R6s didn't even make 100 rwhp stock, 01 GSXR600 was the first to break that 100 limit.

How about fuel efficiency, does it burn noticeably more gas? :D

I agree, it shouldn't spin up straightline, I was never able to spin up the F4 pinning it hard on 1st or 2nd.

That's some incredible gain right there, are you sure it's just jetted and slip on exhaust and dyno tuned? How much weight did it lose? What sort of jetting (stage 1, 2, 3, etc) and dyno tune was it? Any of the sprockets regeared? That is 05 ZX-6R territory. The 01-02 R6s didn't even make 100 rwhp stock, 01 GSXR600 was the first to break that 100 limit.

How about fuel efficiency, does it burn noticeably more gas? :D

I purchased the bike at the beginning of this season. It was a WERA racers backup bike. It has a full M4 titanium system (header, mid pipe, and slip on), jetting and dyno tuning was done in house by his team (therefore I don't know the particulars), 520 chain conversion with aluminum vortex sprockets (deviation from stock I don't know yet, havn't needed a sprocket change up until recently), Traxxion Dynamics front fork rebuild, Ohlins triple adjustable rear shock, a Sprint damper, Woodcraft rearsets, and Vesrah RJL sintered pads. That is all the modification I'm aware of.

The previous owner showed me the dyno sheet, but I do not have a copy of it. From what I have seen firsthand on the track, the bike pulls unusually strong for a 600. I have not yet been in a drag race scenario with a 636, but I have been able to pull on just about all of the 600's to some degree that I have come across.

Since I purchased the bike during the season I havn't had any downtime to pull the bike apart. Over the winter I plan to have the suspension sorted and it will be back on a dyno here in a few weeks so I can see firsthand just whats been done. It appears to have been extremely aggressively tuned as it drinks gas like koolaid, rejects everything but 93+, and misses/backfires on occasion under street conditions.

It's important to keep in mind that there are more important things than peak power output when talking about engine performance, though. How broad the engines curves are, where the peak power lies, and how quickly it can gain and lose revs are what make or break it. That's one of the reasons you'll see big leaps in performance in some bikes over others without big leaps in peak power figures.

I'll post a copy of the dyno sheet in a few weeks when I get it done.

Have you guys seen that video of the camera behind the windscreen on a 330 hp turbo Hayabusa?

If not, I'll try to find it again. It's spooky.

Hey Deal, reading about it just made me drool. The mods didn't sound like something you'd find in an amateur's race-prepped bike. I don't mean the quality of the parts, but the combinations that were used. I'd love to ride something like that, if not for power, but for the handling traits at least.

How much did you shell out for it if you don't mind me asking? What was the mileage when you got it, and how much was it used even as a backup bike?

Sounds like you have a good bike. I am aware that R6 is a revvy bike, light flywheel.

When you're sorting out suspension, are you going for a rebuild or a track set up?

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Jeff, I've seen the video of Ghost rider riding a 599HP Busa.

Hey Deal, reading about it just made me drool. The mods didn't sound like something you'd find in an amateur's race-prepped bike. I don't mean the quality of the parts, but the combinations that were used. I'd love to ride something like that, if not for power, but for the handling traits at least.

How much did you shell out for it if you don't mind me asking? What was the mileage when you got it, and how much was it used even as a backup bike?

Sounds like you have a good bike. I am aware that R6 is a revvy bike, light flywheel.

When you're sorting out suspension, are you going for a rebuild or a track set up?

It's been a great bike for me so far. I talked the owner down to $5000.00, and the bike had 3600 miles on it, mostly street miles from before it was converted. He switched to a ZX-10 as his primary race bike, so he wanted to get rid of the 600's quickly.

The suspension setup is completely unchanged since I purchased it, and I need to set the sag and get a baseline setup for my weight and preferences. Switching from my old Ducati to this was a major learning experience, so I wanted to wait until I was very familiar with the nuances of the bike before I started trying to make setup compensations. It's not too far off from what I want, and I think setting the sag will bring it to 90% of where I want it to be.

Now if I could just learn how to ride it to its potential I'd be in good shape!

Jeff, I've seen the video of Ghost rider riding a 599HP Busa.

Eek!:eek:

OK...