anti seize vs threadlocker

I was just wondering how many of you use an Anti seize on all bolts when putting things back together. I like to use it on all bolts after cleaning them with the wire wheel on my bench grinder before reinstalling them. They are much easier to take back off again later plus I can torque them properly without any additional friction.
Are there places I should be using a threadlocker instead? If so than where? I have never had a problem with anything loosening by itself yet and hope I never will.

I've been accused of using never-seize on my toast in the morning! Even the slightest amount & you still have it on you from head to toe :evillol: . Off hand, I can't think of any loctite/thread locker applications. *Ususally* you use that stuff for a fastener you can't get at easily once the unit is assembled.

G/luck
Joel

You want to use thread locker on torque converter to flexplate bolts. Thats the only place I can think of.

You want to use thread locker on torque converter to flexplate bolts. Thats the only place I can think of.

Also use it on the bolts that hold the hubs on if you have manual or auto hubs. They dont work loose quite as fast that way.

I use anti seize on EVERYTHING :biggrin: If only the factory did that it would have saved me several hours trying to get my exhaust pipe off so I could replace the starter :banghead: 6 hours is way too long for starter replacement. Especially in the dark in a parking lot. Not too much trouble with the manifold flange bolts but the y-pipe flange bolts were not comming out. Finally ended up cutting the heads off and used beam clamps to clamp it back together. Starting to miss my mitsubishi, 20 minutes to replace that starter. {gripe mode = off}

Also use it on the bolts that hold the hubs on if you have manual or auto hubs. They dont work loose quite as fast that way.

I use anti seize on EVERYTHING :biggrin: If only the factory did that it would have saved me several hours trying to get my exhaust pipe off so I could replace the starter :banghead: 6 hours is way too long for starter replacement. Especially in the dark in a parking lot. Not too much trouble with the manifold flange bolts but the y-pipe flange bolts were not comming out. Finally ended up cutting the heads off and used beam clamps to clamp it back together. Starting to miss my mitsubishi, 20 minutes to replace that starter. {gripe mode = off}
Gizmo, I find a nut splitter to be very helpful in these situations if you have the room to use it. It saves alot of time.

Gizmo, I find a nut splitter to be very helpful in these situations if you have the room to use it. It saves alot of time.

I have a couple nut splitters but the problem was that the y-pipe side of the flange has square nuts welded to it, not the standard nut and bolt thing. I was not pleased when I saw that. Another stupid design idea. I might try cutting them off one of these days and just use regular nuts and bolts. With anti seize of course so it will come apart again. For now the remaining part of the bolts are still firmly rusted in place and acting as locater pins.

..the y-pipe side of the flange has square nuts welded to it, not the standard nut and bolt thing. I was not pleased when I saw that. Another stupid design idea...

Isn't that great :disappoin ? Some of the replacement exhaust pieces on rodeos & troops (OEM anyway) cost more than the trucks are worth!! You pretty much have to find a shop ambitious enough to custom make exhaust parts for you :crying: .

G/luck
Joel