98 duratec fuel pump?

When I turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump isn't coming on. I checked the shut-off safety switch, jumpered it just to be sure. Swapped positions of all the relays in the box by the battery/radiator. No fuses blown. The wires are all in good shape. Not giving any codes. The pressure at the schrader valve is zero (the pump isn't coming on quietly, if there is such a thing as a quiet Ford electric fuel pump) in the fuel rail. I took off the line just before the filter and had someone else try the key while I was at the tank. No fuel came out and I didn't hear the pump come on. I tried with the EGR vacuum solenoid unplugged, and again with it jumpered. The battery is great, so low voltage isn't the problem. All the correct dash lights come on and the motor cranks over like there's no tomorrow. It just wants some fuel. So that no one asks the stupid question, yes there is fuel in the tank. A little less than half full. Just enough that I don't want to drop it yet if I can avoid it. I went to the library and tried to figure out which wires to the fuel pump I could put 12 volts to in order to test it, but the wire colors in the Mitchell manual don't all match what is in the harness to the fuel pump. I didn't want to put power to something that might get burned out, if it isn't already bad. So, I'm stopped now. How do I test the fuel pump without dropping the tank? If the fuel pump turns out to be ok, what else could be causing the problem? Is there another switch or pressure relay that controls the fuel pump? Thanks for any help. It has a 190,00 miles if that is any factor. I want to get a million out of it if I can keep other people from hitting it.

If you jumpered the inertia switch, and there is current at the inertia, the pump is bad. You have done about all you can do. The power runs from the inertia switch directly to the pump.

Thanks. I hope my jack stands are tall enough to let the fuel tank drop.

I read somwhere that the wires can chafe back by the tank and cause fuel delivery problems (pump won't work). But by the sound of it you're gonna have to get back by the tank for wire inspection or to drop the tank for pump replacement. My 97 died on the I-state in AM rush hour traffic, middle lane. Fuel pump just quit. I made alot of "friends" that morning. The maxi fuse for the pump kept blowing so I knew there was an issue with the pump. Replaced it and no probs since.

Just wanted to update. A new fuel pump appears to have fixed it. Thanks for the information. It took about two hours and $188 plus tax for the pump and screen. Disconnected the rubber hose from the steel filler tube down closer to the tank to put my siphon hose in to remove most of the gas. The 4 foot hose just wasn't long enough to get to the gas from up at the filler inlet. Disconnected the filler return vent hose and another vent line at the same place. Put a floor jack under the tank and removed the two bolts for the straps. Soaked the bolts beforehand with penetrating spray so that the nut/clips wouldn't snap. Disconnected the fuel line at the filter and the return line next to it. Disconnected the wire harnes plug in that same area, then lowered and pulled out the tank. Disconnected the fuel lines at the pump outer retaining flange and unlocked the retaining lock ring. There are two clips holding the pump unit to the bottom of the tank that you just have to squeeze in on to release the pump. There was a sensor in the flange that didn't come with the new pumps flange, so since it was 9 at night, I just reused the old one. I don't have a guess what it is for, except maybe to tell if the gas cap is on? Maybe someone will answer that question. Went back together the same way it came apart. Be carefull of the wires when putting the tank back up in place. Mine kept wanting to fall down between the tank flange and the mounting crossmember, and tightening the straps would probably cut the wires if they stayed there.