front stabilizer bar

Son drives a 97 grand prix (117K miles) we've had for a month or so. Tie rod went last night and we had it in to be replaced today. Garage replaced the front tie rods, did the alignment and also replaced the drive belt.

They said the front stabilizer bar was broken ($317 to repair), something about the ABS wires ($387 but mainly a nuisance with the ABS light staying on in the car), oh and leaking fluid on the intake.

I stopped by an auto parts store to pick up the Haynes manual and get a price on the stabilizer bar (since I have no idea how much of the $317 is labor/parts). The person at the auto parts store wanted to know if I was sure the stabilizer bar needed to be replaced. He said it was uncommon and the sway bar link repair kit was usually what was needed. I told him the garage said that we'd notice clanking noise until it was fixed. They didn't indicate it needed to be done immediately but we asked them to prioritize what they'd fix next. He seemed to think it probably wasn't a broken stabilizer bar but the links. Now is there any way for me to verify which it is (easily)? The sway bar link repair kit was a couple bucks.

Sorry for the long post but figured maybe the extra info would help somebody take a guess as to what is the more likely repair needed. I will be taking it to another garage (that I trust) to have them check it over but can't until later next week.

Son drives a 97 grand prix (117K miles) we've had for a month or so. Tie rod went last night and we had it in to be replaced today. Garage replaced the front tie rods, did the alignment and also replaced the drive belt.

They said the front stabilizer bar was broken ($317 to repair), something about the ABS wires ($387 but mainly a nuisance with the ABS light staying on in the car), oh and leaking fluid on the intake.

I stopped by an auto parts store to pick up the Haynes manual and get a price on the stabilizer bar (since I have no idea how much of the $317 is labor/parts). The person at the auto parts store wanted to know if I was sure the stabilizer bar needed to be replaced. He said it was uncommon and the sway bar link repair kit was usually what was needed. I told him the garage said that we'd notice clanking noise until it was fixed. They didn't indicate it needed to be done immediately but we asked them to prioritize what they'd fix next. He seemed to think it probably wasn't a broken stabilizer bar but the links. Now is there any way for me to verify which it is (easily)? The sway bar link repair kit was a couple bucks.

Sorry for the long post but figured maybe the extra info would help somebody take a guess as to what is the more likely repair needed. I will be taking it to another garage (that I trust) to have them check it over but can't until later next week.

I've heard of the anti-sway bar (stabilizer) actually beaking but it's very uncommon and I have never seen one broken. To inspect the stabilizer bar and the links to include bushings turn the steering to the far right to inspect driver's side or far left to inspect passenger side. Perform a visual inspection. Or you can jack up the car and remove the wheels if you want a better view.

The stabilizer is mounted via a long bolt and stacked bushings on each lower control arm. The center of the bar is mounted to the subframe with rubber bushings and u clamps.

The links on the lower control arms are easy to change out with regular hand tools. The center bushings are harder to do due to access problems. It's tight and the rack & pinion is in the way.

If the stabilizer bar is actually broken then it will need replacement so it is hard to say whether paying $317 is unreasonable.







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

The link kit is a bolt and bushing set that connects the stabilizer bar to the lower control arm. poke your head underneath the car and look to see if the stabilizer is hooked to the contol arm. if the bolts and bushings are there, and you can't move them by hand, follow the stabilizer bar across the car to see if broken. It should be easy to see, since the bar is a 1" or so diameter piece of rod. If all that is wrong is the link kit, go punch the guy at the garage in the mouth for attempting to rape you. Replacing those links is a 20 minute job, and the parts are cheap. IF the bar IS broken, then that estimate isn't too far out of line, as the bars are dealer only. If he was gonna get one from the junk yard, then again his estimate is too high, because the labor to change the bar is nothing. It's 4 bolts plus removing the links and it drops out.

It's 4 bolts plus removing the links and it drops out.

The front sway bar on a Grand Prix doesn't just drop out because it is blocked by the subframe. It has to be manhandled and manipulated out. More to it than meets the eye. PITA job. Just my 2 cents. :2cents:








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

DONT pay what the garage wants. That is rediculous price. You can get an entire suspension upgrade kit for 120 plus shipping. The bar is an hour project, just have to remove both front tires and weave the bar in.

Here's the kit:

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&partnumber=pk12456148

DONT pay what the garage wants. That is rediculous price. You can get an entire suspension upgrade kit for 120 plus shipping. The bar is an hour project, just have to remove both front tires and weave the bar in.

Here's the kit:

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&partnumber=pk12456148

Yeah, if he wants to wait 2 weeks for it and pay the ridiculous shipping charges. I am quite sure Rich can get it for a good price and provide timely delivery.









http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Point was that paying 300 for a sway bar is robbery. Dont care where the hell he gets the bar from as long as he doesnt pay 300 for it.

He should get his son out there and start working on the car. Could be great bonding exp. and the son might actually learn something.

Point was that paying 300 for a sway bar is robbery. Dont care where the hell he gets the bar from as long as he doesnt pay 300 for it.

He should get his son out there and start working on the car. Could be great bonding exp. and the son might actually learn something.

Point is well taken and I agree. DIY is the only way to save money otherwise you're SOL and at the whim of the mechanic or dealer.







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I installed front and back sway bars, and strut tower braces last week. What a difference! This change out went very smoothly, and has made driving my GTP even more fun.

The original front sway bar is a hollow bar that is a 1.0625” diameter and weighs 6 lbs. I replaced it with a 1.25” solid bar that weights 18 lbs.

The original rear sway bar is a hollow bar that weighs 4 lbs. I replaced it with a solid bar that weights 12 lbs. The new bar was about an 1/8th of an inch larger in diameter.

Changing these out took me 5 hours. But if I could do it again, it would only take me about 3 hours. And overall, I only added 20 pounds to the total car weight. The big difference is, the car loops through turns like a rollercoaster, and no more screaming tires in the process. The car stays very level through turns.

The strut tower braces took just over an hour to install. The front took me about 10 minutes. It took me longer to put the rear tower brace on because I’m kinda fat. I put these on more for peace of mind. I wanted to re enforce the car a bit, with all my hard driving.

You absolutely want to buy a sway bar kit that includes the poly bushings. IMHO, that is a must. And incase you didn’t know, those bushings need to be greased. Factory ones are not, because they are rubber.

The downside of this Sway bar switch. I’m not sure if I am allowed to say who the mfg is, so I’ll leave it out. The new front sway bar was about ¼” longer on both sides. So the end link geometry isn’t true vertical, as they once were. That’s the only bad thing I can say. I guess that was a manufacturing defect.

All that stuff cost about $450. The next step is new endlinks with poly bushings. And next spring (pardon my pun)…. GMPP Koni’s.

Anyway, I was so impressed with this upgrade, I wanted to share it…..

The downside of this Sway bar switch. I’m not sure if I am allowed to say who the mfg is, so I’ll leave it out. The new front sway bar was about ¼” longer on both sides. So the end link geometry isn’t true vertical, as they once were. That’s the only bad thing I can say. I guess that was a manufacturing defect.


Thanks for sharing your experience. It's OK to name the company. Let me take a guess SLP or Speedbuilt?? Nice to know the company name if it was a manufacturing defect.

How do you plan on compensating for the deficiency or are you just going with it. 1/4" on each end sounds like a lot.








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

You got it bnaylor3400. Speedbuilt. Everything was of very good quality. It’s just that the front bar is a bit too long. Oh, also. The grease zirk fittings on the front bar bushing brackets would not fit my grease gun. Arrgh! Plus one hour, to remove and grease the poly bushings by hand…. LOL.

I’m going to let the end link angle thing, slide for now. It’s not really serious. But I have a hunch that the bolts are contacting the sway bar because of the angle. (I think I can hear it.)

We have a machine shop at work so I might be able bribe someone there to make some custom bolts. But I was going to make that decision when I got the new end links in with the poly bushings. I’m pretty sure I can come up with something.

Also, when I do put the GMPP Koni struts on, the lower arms will raise a bit. In favor of correcting the end link angle. I was kinda wondering if this was the reason the sway bar was a bit too long. Could it have been on purpose? Probably not. Maybe someone here knows that answer.

You got it bnaylor3400. Speedbuilt. Everything was of very good quality. It’s just that the front bar is a bit too long. Oh, also. The grease zirk fittings on the front bar bushing brackets would not fit my grease gun. Arrgh! Plus one hour, to remove and grease the poly bushings by hand…. LOL.

I’m going to let the end link angle thing, slide for now. It’s not really serious. But I have a hunch that the bolts are contacting the sway bar because of the angle. (I think I can hear it.)

We have a machine shop at work so I might be able bribe someone there to make some custom bolts. But I was going to make that decision when I got the new end links in with the poly bushings. I’m pretty sure I can come up with something.

Also, when I do put the GMPP Koni struts on, the lower arms will raise a bit. In favor of correcting the end link angle. I was kinda wondering if this was the reason the sway bar was a bit too long. Could it have been on purpose? Probably not. Maybe someone here knows that answer.

Just a lucky guess. I have the Speedbuilt polyurethane end link and mid bushings. You'll probably be OK. If the front end alignment check outs I would not worry about it. I believe only camber would be affected which you could compensate for. I'm not sure if the Koni's have the elongated strut mounting holes but an aftermarket adjustable camber kit can be installed. Good luck and let know us know it turns out.







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Hello guys, here’s my sway bar change out update. I have put almost exactly 4000 miles on my car since the change. This was a modification, with significant results in my book. It really made my car handle more like a sports car, with zero impact on the overall ride quality. I can’t imagine why they didn’t do this at the factory…

Here are my observations…

- My comment above (post #9) about the end link geometry being at a different angle, because the sway bar is slightly longer….. It has turned out to be a non-issue. There has been no rubbing on the CV boot, and no other noticeable problems.

- There has been is one problem. The driver side U-clamp bracket that straddles the poly bushing is bent. It has raised about an 1/8 of an inch. The steel yielded right were the 90deg bend is, from where it is bolted to the frame, and then goes vertical to make the u shape.

I plan to disassemble, and pound back into shape, and back it up with some over sized washers. The hold down bolts are pretty long. So one or two washers shouldn’t be a big deal. So I recommend backing up the bolts with wide washers if there is room.

- The second thing is an annoyance. Not really a problem. The poly bushing does need to be greased occasionally. Like when you change the oil. Not a big deal. The bad part is, it’s impossible to get a grease gun end on it, to replenish. It’s vertical, and leaves no room for access from above.

I have tried to find a 90deg bend grease zerk fittings, but haven’t found one that will fit the tapped hole in the bracket. (the hole is too large) To grease them, I have to take the zerk off, then put a little rubber disk washer (from a Grolsch swing top beer bottle) over the hole, and press the grease gun end up against the rubber washer. Kinda messy, but gets the job done.

The engineers at Speedbuilt need to increase the thickness of the poly bushing bracket. (And shorten the sway bar a tad while there at it.) They had to of known the transmitted loads to that bracket was going to increase significantly. It’s only slightly thicker than stock.

I wanted to post back here to let you guys know how the change out went. I want to give back a little to this Forum, when I can. There has been some really really helpful guys in here (and we all know who they are) and I appreciate their help. I don’t post much, but I gain a lot of great advice, from reading this GTP forum. It feels good to contribute. Even just a little bit. Thanks for all of your help!
-Niq

Thanks for the post gang. I know this thread is a bit outdated but it really has helped me out!

Thanks for the post gang. I know this thread is a bit outdated but it really has helped me out!

Welcome to AF.

Glad you got some benefit from it but since it is an old thread it has been closed from any further replies or discussion.