Installing Oil Cooler Lines - Directions
hcary
11-17-2005, 12:50 AM
I replaced one of the two oil cooler lines on my 01' Jimmy/Blazer 4-door a few weeks ago. I thought I'd post the directions I followed, along with a couple of my own notes.
I used Dorman Oil Cooler Lines P/N: 625-100. This is from the Radiator to the Oil Filter, not the Filter back to the engine.
1) Remove negative terminal from the battery.
2) Remove plastic skid plate beneath engine (6 x 13mm bolts)
3) Remove Air Filter housing (cover & box assy.) for access to radiator.
4) Disconnect the secondary air pump from the frame. You'll need this for the extra room. The pump is the object with a black ball sticking forward, directly across from the oil filter housing on the passenger side. You can leave the electrical connection and two air hoses connected because you just need it out of the way a little. Use an open-ended wrench to remove the two bolts. Be careful not to hit the air bag sensors nearby. That's why I disconnected my battery, to be on the safe side.
5) Remove upper and lower cooler line from the radiator by slipping out the spring clip which secures each line to the radiator. (Yes, it is that easy. Replacements will be in the Dorman kit)
6) Cap off old oil line using plastic cap from new oil line to prevent spill.
7) From underneath, remove oil line from filter housing by removing the single bolt. Some oil will spill, so have towels or a container. Less than 1/2 cup spilled.
8) Remove old oil cooler lines, paying attention to the path.
9) Make sure gaskets didn't stay connected to the oil filter housing. They may blend in very well.
10) Route new oil cooler lines into place.
11) Connect filter end of the line first, securing with the single bolt.
12) Connect lower cooler line to the radiator. Push in line all the way, then lock it in with the spring clip by sliding the clip around the connector. The clip has 3 indentions that will snap into place when properly lined up with the connector’s three holes. On the Dorman lines, there will likely be a plastic moveable plastic ring on the shaft of the oil cooler line. Once the spring clip is secure, you can snap that ring around the spring clip assembly for added security.
13) Connect the upper cooler line, just like you did the lower.
That's it. The only problem I had was trying to remove and install with the secondary air pump in the way. Wasted 30 minutes, at least. Should have only taken about an hour.
I hear the oil cooler line from the filter to the engine is a bit trickier, so I'll take it to a shop. I was easily able to do the radiator line without a jack. Also, the Dorman line took some convincing to line up and screw into the filter end. Took some pressure to line up and get the bold started.
I got the Dorman Oil Cooler Line 625-100 from a local CarQuest for $32.95 + Change. You can probably save a few by buying on-line, or pay a little more for the dealer brand.
I used Dorman Oil Cooler Lines P/N: 625-100. This is from the Radiator to the Oil Filter, not the Filter back to the engine.
1) Remove negative terminal from the battery.
2) Remove plastic skid plate beneath engine (6 x 13mm bolts)
3) Remove Air Filter housing (cover & box assy.) for access to radiator.
4) Disconnect the secondary air pump from the frame. You'll need this for the extra room. The pump is the object with a black ball sticking forward, directly across from the oil filter housing on the passenger side. You can leave the electrical connection and two air hoses connected because you just need it out of the way a little. Use an open-ended wrench to remove the two bolts. Be careful not to hit the air bag sensors nearby. That's why I disconnected my battery, to be on the safe side.
5) Remove upper and lower cooler line from the radiator by slipping out the spring clip which secures each line to the radiator. (Yes, it is that easy. Replacements will be in the Dorman kit)
6) Cap off old oil line using plastic cap from new oil line to prevent spill.
7) From underneath, remove oil line from filter housing by removing the single bolt. Some oil will spill, so have towels or a container. Less than 1/2 cup spilled.
8) Remove old oil cooler lines, paying attention to the path.
9) Make sure gaskets didn't stay connected to the oil filter housing. They may blend in very well.
10) Route new oil cooler lines into place.
11) Connect filter end of the line first, securing with the single bolt.
12) Connect lower cooler line to the radiator. Push in line all the way, then lock it in with the spring clip by sliding the clip around the connector. The clip has 3 indentions that will snap into place when properly lined up with the connector’s three holes. On the Dorman lines, there will likely be a plastic moveable plastic ring on the shaft of the oil cooler line. Once the spring clip is secure, you can snap that ring around the spring clip assembly for added security.
13) Connect the upper cooler line, just like you did the lower.
That's it. The only problem I had was trying to remove and install with the secondary air pump in the way. Wasted 30 minutes, at least. Should have only taken about an hour.
I hear the oil cooler line from the filter to the engine is a bit trickier, so I'll take it to a shop. I was easily able to do the radiator line without a jack. Also, the Dorman line took some convincing to line up and screw into the filter end. Took some pressure to line up and get the bold started.
I got the Dorman Oil Cooler Line 625-100 from a local CarQuest for $32.95 + Change. You can probably save a few by buying on-line, or pay a little more for the dealer brand.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025