Removing Boost Controller
zax89
11-16-2005, 11:27 PM
Well i just got my car and it has a manual boost controller see here (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/2173000-2173999/2173437_33_full.jpg) and well everyone said its really old school and if done wrong bad for turbo and engine well can someone help me out and explain to me or give me a picture on how i can return it to stock. thank you everyone
Zach
Zach
TcmaBoy
11-17-2005, 12:36 AM
The key here is if they are done wrong. How long has it been on the motor? Are you having any problems now? You would know in a hurry if the thing is installed wrong. Your motor would have already blown up. Any modification to a motor is bad for it if it is done wrong. This dose not make it a bad modification.
They work in the same manner that the electronic ones do. The valve bleeds of the pressure reference to the waste gate diaphragm causing the waste gate to open later and to a lesser degree. You just need to pay more attention when adjusting it, and when driving. Engine vibration can cause the valve open or close. You have to constantly watch the boost gage to make sure things are OK. You need to have some safety mechanism such as lace wire or a jam nut to keep the valve at the correct setting. Electronic units do the same thing, except instead of a manual valve they have an electronically controlled bleed valve. They will adjust the valve opening automatically to keep things where you want them.
If eveything is fine I would leave it there at its current setting. It will do its job of tricking the waste gate just fine. Check your boost press. It is probably a few PSI over stock. If you are happy with that I would stick with it untill you are ready for the next step in your build up. There are a lot of ney sayers out there that think their way is the only way. You should do some homework so you can make more informed dicisions instead of listening to crazy hillbillies(like me). Running a google search for "turbo 101" will turn some good stuff up. The old school boost controllers are still being sold. They need a bit more attention paid durring set up, but they work every bit as well as an electonic unit. I tend to recomend the electonic variaty because they are easier to work with, and do a slightly better job of controlling the waste gate. The old school ones are still used because they are cheap and easy to install. I would use some glue or something to ensure the valve dose not vibrate open or closed.
Now, if you do not have any supporting fuel modifications to go with the higher boost levels and you do not feel comfortable with the current bleeder valve then I would get rid of the controller. The easy thing to do is close the valve, and put a drop of super glue in the threads. This will keep it shut. With the valve closed things will return to normal. If you want to remove it just put a brass barbed fitting in its place. Don't use a plastic fitting. It may not hold up.
They work in the same manner that the electronic ones do. The valve bleeds of the pressure reference to the waste gate diaphragm causing the waste gate to open later and to a lesser degree. You just need to pay more attention when adjusting it, and when driving. Engine vibration can cause the valve open or close. You have to constantly watch the boost gage to make sure things are OK. You need to have some safety mechanism such as lace wire or a jam nut to keep the valve at the correct setting. Electronic units do the same thing, except instead of a manual valve they have an electronically controlled bleed valve. They will adjust the valve opening automatically to keep things where you want them.
If eveything is fine I would leave it there at its current setting. It will do its job of tricking the waste gate just fine. Check your boost press. It is probably a few PSI over stock. If you are happy with that I would stick with it untill you are ready for the next step in your build up. There are a lot of ney sayers out there that think their way is the only way. You should do some homework so you can make more informed dicisions instead of listening to crazy hillbillies(like me). Running a google search for "turbo 101" will turn some good stuff up. The old school boost controllers are still being sold. They need a bit more attention paid durring set up, but they work every bit as well as an electonic unit. I tend to recomend the electonic variaty because they are easier to work with, and do a slightly better job of controlling the waste gate. The old school ones are still used because they are cheap and easy to install. I would use some glue or something to ensure the valve dose not vibrate open or closed.
Now, if you do not have any supporting fuel modifications to go with the higher boost levels and you do not feel comfortable with the current bleeder valve then I would get rid of the controller. The easy thing to do is close the valve, and put a drop of super glue in the threads. This will keep it shut. With the valve closed things will return to normal. If you want to remove it just put a brass barbed fitting in its place. Don't use a plastic fitting. It may not hold up.
zax89
11-17-2005, 11:44 PM
well its running lower than stock so i would like to take to stock setting
can you explain how to return.
can you explain how to return.
TcmaBoy
11-18-2005, 12:31 AM
See last paragraph in the previous post.
Now, if you do not have any supporting fuel modifications to go with the higher boost levels and you do not feel comfortable with the current bleeder valve then I would get rid of the controller. The easy thing to do is close the valve, and put a drop of super glue in the threads. This will keep it shut. With the valve closed things will return to normal. If you want to remove it just put a brass barbed fitting in its place. Don't use a plastic fitting. It may not hold up.
Now, if you do not have any supporting fuel modifications to go with the higher boost levels and you do not feel comfortable with the current bleeder valve then I would get rid of the controller. The easy thing to do is close the valve, and put a drop of super glue in the threads. This will keep it shut. With the valve closed things will return to normal. If you want to remove it just put a brass barbed fitting in its place. Don't use a plastic fitting. It may not hold up.
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