1992 88 Stalls after idling for a couple minutes

I have had some bogging issues in the near past and I had at one point an error code naming the MAF sensor. I replaced that but then now when it starts it sounds great for the first couple minutes then idles hard (with almost rhythmic pulses if you can imagine it) then dies. I replaced the PCV valve, the fuel filter, and changed the oil, oil filter and air filter. I think maybe a sensor or module might be bad. I am going to get a fuel pressure gauge (i bought the wrong one yesterday) to test it and see if the pressure is dropping dramatically. But it seems to me that since it stalls when it starts to get warm that that is a sign of something (but what I don't know).
How I think it is when it gets warm is that after it dies it won't let me start it again until it cools. I can't get any codes since I haven't dared drive it yet for fear of it dying on me, but it might be worth the test since it won't be idling for excessive periods...

any thoughts of where to check first? alot of these symptoms are similar to ones I have read in other posts so I am sorry for the possible duplicate issue.

kenny

I was able to keep the car running for a bit by applying gas, instead of just letting it idle. At about 5 mins of running, it died after I revved the engine.

I am getting a code 58 which looks as though it relates to a
Transmission code - TTS high temperature (sensor or signal wire grounded)
or
Security System (Fuel Enable Circuit)- i am not sure what this is. Is this located in the fuse box or relay areas?

Any prior experience with this? Where is this component located?

Check the fuel press. yet, especially as it dies?

Well I checked the fuel pressure at the regulator and it seems to be in the normal range. It sat at 40ish with KOEO- (key on engine off) then started and there was a slight drop to about 38-40 but it seems fine. It then after running a few minutes idles rough and then stalled. Again the code 58- I think it must be related to the TTS. I was told by one person that they often won't shut the car down but might let themselves burn out but I am not sure that is the case. After the car sits for a while I can start so I think it is dealing with the heating up of something. Maybe something with the exhaust system, as after the car runs it seems that I hear a clicking or somesuch noise in the purge container more than I remember before but I could be mistaken.

Do you think changing the oxygen sensor might help any on this issue? Where is the TTS- any idea of where the Transmission Temperature Sensor located? I am going to purchase a Haynes manual tonight but I would love the GM shop manual for this car - its like 3000 pages but its like $100 - yikes...

Frustration setting in... and should I just get used to my hands being permanantly black from oil and grease and such :-)

My 1985 Delta 88 Royale 307 does the same thing. It runs fine for a bit then shuts off. I too changed the fuel filter and pump and even got a different carb on it and still did the same thing. I read that you guys said something about the transmission. There was a plug on my trans. that was unplugged when i got my car and i plugged it in to see what would happen and im not sure if that started it or not. I tried to get a code reading but i got nothing. I did'nt try any sensors or anything though. Hopefully we can help each other cause i love my car and dont wanna junk it.

In the case of the 92, you say when the car starts to warm up that the car stalled when you hit the accelerator. Before you replace the O2 sensor, do a vacuum test on the EGR valve. I believe the 92 has one. Check to see if the car idles erratically or stalls when vacuum is applied. If so you might need to clean or replace the EGR valve. Note that the EGR valve symptoms will usually only show up when the engine is warm, but normally they will set off codes.

Before you replace the O2 sensor, do a vacuum test on the EGR valve. I believe the 92 has one. .
Yeah I thought it would too. I will write a post on this later tonight detiling my wondeful experience in this whole situation (is it too early in '06 for sarcasm, yet? :-)) My model 1992 3.8L Vin L does not use an EGR valve. Though a chilton manual diagram references a linear exhaustion valve on a diagram I don't believe it is present. Also at the top of the section on Emissions and Drivability it has an Asterisk * saying my model doesn't use an EGR valve. Which is killing me because I am told that my symptons are applicable to a bad EGR. I am also looking into the throttle position sensor as now I get a Code 22. I have check the signal current and I get the 5 volts but on my B post it is less supposed to be .5 or less and then when the throttle is opened towards to full it is supposed to enlarge to the full 5 volts. That is not happening so the manual suggests the TPS could be bad. I had thought at one point this could cause a problem, but I thought a bad TPS would only affect drivability when the car was already up and running, not just idling. I still think I could possible have vacuum issue though, as when it starts to run, I pull the vacuum tube of the FP regulator, this makes the pressure rise but often when I go to attach it back and the car is loping it will stall immediately if I attach it or cover the vacuum hole.
Well I guess I will write more. I did change the .02 sensor since it was pretty old anyways. I get good spark, and the pressure of fuel looks good, almost I think I get too much as my plugs were a little on the dark side but no real problems. I am thinking of replacing the fuel regulator and the the throttle position sensor. And if no avail, swapping out the computer. I am also thinking of gettin an Actron Super scanner to hopefully catch live data going to the computer. Its expensive but it will help me look at my OBD-IU car and my buddy who lives upstairs can get his OBD-II van as well. It's all a little pricey but I love the car and I will be using to work on friends car and maybe recoup some of the costs.

I know there is more, but I will write on this later. Thoughts, comments?

hey any luck my car has the same exact problem it stalls i have a code 22 and i figured it was a coolant sensor problem so i swapped that out and now i have a code 15 i guess my computer is bad and doesnt like new parts

hey if u figured out your problem let me know
thanks

I last replaced my TPS sensor that was giving me the faulty voltage readings and wouldn't you know it- same readings. So it is either the computer or a short. I am in the process of tracjing all the wiring down and checking all the grounds. Since the Computer is self contained it gets its ground and power from the wiring plugged into the metal casing of the computer. So my thoughts are now that I have a short somewhere that is causing the computer to act up. I could replace the computer to be for sure its a short but I haven't had the chance to get to a junkyard to pick one up, so I might just suck it up and pay the extra and get one from AutoZone. I believe my PROM chip is good but I am only going off the fact that the diagnostic still works. I don't know how to tell for sure the PROM chip is working for sure... Does anyone know how to tell if the PROM is good? I know it carries just basic info so that is why I am more prone to think a short is causing the issues... It is just a super tedious and time consuming process that I have so far put to the side except on free days (which are so few). I attend school fulltime and work fulltime, so me and the friendly city bus have become well acquainted again. I'll let you know more as I find out. Good luck.

yea ken my car is throwing weird codes everytime i change something and i put a new one in the computer notices n throws me a code even if i disconnect the battery cable for a while and reconnect it the computer throws a code before i even start up the car. last week i got a code 66 when my ac was just done over the summer and i leakdown tested it and it was fine then that code stopped and i got a tps code and that was fine because i replaced it and i still have that code and now i have the tps code and the coolant tempature sensor code which i just replaced today because the old one was shot and the computer noticed it was new and gave a code now when it idles it idles rough and then stalls but if i take it around the street once and stop back at my house it idles smooth as anything. think i should just replace my computer the local junkyard has one for me if i think thats what needs to be changed.

thanks ken

Ive seen this problem a million times. Change your ignition module and crank sensor. Worked on 2 0f my olds 98's and 3 of my pontiac 6000's

bigdaddy_ca would the ignition module or the cps cause the engine to jerk and hesitate and throw false codes though??

ken did you ever replace your ignition module i have a funny fealing mine is bad too considering i tapped it with a screwdriver n now the car is running even worse than before

hey ken did you ever figure out your problem with your car? im leaning towards a fuel related problem