Hydrolock - clicking sound..
acurac27a
11-16-2005, 07:53 AM
I have a v6 with ram air out the front of my bumper and it had rained the night before. i started my car and after idling about 2 minutes it made a loud pop sound and sounded like metal flew around in my engine for a split second after. the car kept running but making a quick clicking sound, like 3 times a second at 750rpm. i felt so sick to my stomach.
i looked at my ram air hose imeditatly and it had a small puddle of water in it, maybe about a ounce. im guessing whatever got sucked in was about 3 table spoons at most. it sounds like the clicking is comming from almost everywhere the top center of the engine, the front and back, but mostly from the timing crank pully. ive had the engine run for about 8 minutes total since then with no load. take my exhaust manifold off so i can drop the oil pan and look. my 6th cylinder has a psi of 120 and the one directly across the V has 150, all others are holding 180.
anyone know what i should look for after dropping the pan? i checked my exhaust valves through the side covers and intake lifter through the valve cover and everything looks tight and no obvious damage but then again, ive never delt with a problem like this before.
ive searched 2 days for information and just keep finding things like "check the valves, rods, valves, bearings" but cant find info on how to check these things.
i looked at my ram air hose imeditatly and it had a small puddle of water in it, maybe about a ounce. im guessing whatever got sucked in was about 3 table spoons at most. it sounds like the clicking is comming from almost everywhere the top center of the engine, the front and back, but mostly from the timing crank pully. ive had the engine run for about 8 minutes total since then with no load. take my exhaust manifold off so i can drop the oil pan and look. my 6th cylinder has a psi of 120 and the one directly across the V has 150, all others are holding 180.
anyone know what i should look for after dropping the pan? i checked my exhaust valves through the side covers and intake lifter through the valve cover and everything looks tight and no obvious damage but then again, ive never delt with a problem like this before.
ive searched 2 days for information and just keep finding things like "check the valves, rods, valves, bearings" but cant find info on how to check these things.
i_a_n112784
11-16-2005, 09:51 AM
The rods and bearings are easy to check. You'll need a good torque wrench. Take off the oil pan, then only doing one at a time, disconnect the end cap of the rod by removing the 2 bolts. The bearing is in there, it is 2 pieces, a top and bottom positioned on the top and bottom of the crank, look for scratches, cracks, etc. You can carefully push the piston up a bit to inspect the top bearing. while there, check for excessive slop in the rod. Be sure to keep track of which bearing came from where and make sure it goes back the same way it came out. Make sure they have oil on them when you put them back, and torque the bolts.
Make sure the valves are correctly adjusted (if they can be I am not familiar with the V6 engines but I know some can't be).
Make sure the valves are correctly adjusted (if they can be I am not familiar with the V6 engines but I know some can't be).
acurac27a
11-16-2005, 11:56 AM
the intake valves are self adjustings, i recently adjusted the exhaust valves a month before the ordeal. i looked at them while the engine cranked and visually they all looked to move in order like they are supposed to. if there was a bent or broke valve would the visable part (with adjusting screws) display any problem? i cant see the valves, just the end where you adjust them.
what problems could cause a fast tick at idle? 3-4 times per second at 750rpm? it doesnt sound like a knock.
what problems could cause a fast tick at idle? 3-4 times per second at 750rpm? it doesnt sound like a knock.
i_a_n112784
11-16-2005, 01:00 PM
A valve out of adjustment would cause a tick sound. Try re-adjusting the valves or at least checking them. If any are significantly out, then there's a good chance that it's damaged. I don't know how youd check a self-adjusting one.
97integrals
11-16-2005, 05:23 PM
My money is on a spun bearing
superbluecivicsi
11-16-2005, 06:11 PM
120 in one cylinder and 180 in others, if it were me, id just rip the head off the block and look. the compression results alone is enough to justify ripping the head off and giving it a look.
acurac27a
11-16-2005, 08:39 PM
what kind of work can i accomplish from within the oil pan? can you change the bearing from underneath without pulling the head? you cant pull a piston through the bottom of the head can you? i do just about everything with a engine but far as ive ever had to go is a head gasket, never had any crank or piston problems.
acurac27a
11-17-2005, 05:38 PM
bump
superbluecivicsi
11-17-2005, 06:31 PM
basically, you need to pull the entire engine out and give it a look. a leakdown test would be handy to isolate your problem(s) too.
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