I have a DIC Problem

I changed the bulbs as shown here http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=1079553&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1&cookieCheck=852918312
but that didn't fix my problem.

Checked voltage, and i'm not gettin any at the lights on the left side (looking straight on) but i am on the right side.Tracing the pins from the connector to the light source shows that there is no voltage for the lights from the connector

There are to I/O cables that run from the back ckt brd to the frnt ckt brd. one for trac (right) and one for the rest (left) right side is fine, but left side i get NOTHING I have power at a few of the connectors on the front board, left side, at the I/O connector but not all of them.

basically, a new DIC is $400. $400 that i don't have based on previous work done. anyone got any ideas for this? GM doens't work on the DIC's they just replace them. does anyone have an inside wiring diagram that would show where the harness for the dic runs to? it's like a 20 Pin connector (i didn't count)

This all started last Fri on the way to the track. I met a friend on the side of the road to pour in some tasty c-10. disconnecte the batt. gnd. and did the hot rodders trick (Thanks to Bnaylor :) ) but when I reconnected the batt and starte d the car, i had nothing on the DIC display, only the trac off, low trac lights. checked the fuses and everything there seems ok (fuse by glove box) are there any others that I could check? could this possibly be a pcm issue?

Sorry for blowing your DIC. :biggrin: There is some idiosyncracy in the 2000 and up GTP DIC. I worked with a guy a while back that had a similar problem with his 2001 GTP after someone jump started him. :dunno:

BTW - The link is not working but I know the procedure that was posted on ClubGP. It was for a '97 GTP.

There should be 3 of the Sylvania #24 mini lamps for DIC back illumination. Are any of these working or are you losing certain fault indicators? I don't think it's a PCM problem.








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Sorry for blowing your DIC. :biggrin: There is some idiosyncracy in the 2000 and up GTP DIC. I worked with a guy a while back that had a similar problem with his 2001 GTP after someone jump started him. :dunno:

BTW - The link is not working but I know the procedure that was posted on ClubGP. It was for a '97 GTP.

There should be 3 of the Sylvania #24 mini lamps for DIC back illumination. Are any of these working or are you losing certain fault indicators? I don't think it's a PCM problem.
.

Thanks for the reply bob. I do have the link to the repair with the bulbs. I performed the repair last night, but to no avail. I still get nothing except the TCS lights. It the whole backlit display that isn't working as well as the LEDs for the ENG/MET, RESET, and MODE buttons. <-- this is what confuses me...no LED's or Bulbs on the left, but on everything is fine on the right...

I checked with multimeter and I get 12V on teh two Trac bulbs (they DO work), but nothing on the three DIC bulbs. I also checked the plug itself for voltages, but without a pinout diagram i am searching in the dark...

I might ahve to buy a new one, that would suck greatly but if that's what has to be done, then that's what has to be done. I just wish i had another DIC to test out before I spent the money. My sister has 2000 GT but it's in the shop 200 mi away b/c some idiot came flying into her parking lot and hit another car that slid into hers...

do you happen to have contact information for Ed Morad? A fellow clubgper said he might have one that wouldn't cost $400.

Thanks for the reply bob. I do have the link to the repair with the bulbs. I performed the repair last night, but to no avail. I still get nothing except the TCS lights. It the whole backlit display that isn't working as well as the LEDs for the ENG/MET, RESET, and MODE buttons. <-- this is what confuses me...no LED's or Bulbs on the left, but on everything is fine on the right...

I checked with multimeter and I get 12V on teh two Trac bulbs (they DO work), but nothing on the three DIC bulbs. I also checked the plug itself for voltages, but without a pinout diagram i am searching in the dark...

I might ahve to buy a new one, that would suck greatly but if that's what has to be done, then that's what has to be done. I just wish i had another DIC to test out before I spent the money. My sister has 2000 GT but it's in the shop 200 mi away b/c some idiot came flying into her parking lot and hit another car that slid into hers...

do you happen to have contact information for Ed Morad? A fellow clubgper said he might have one that wouldn't cost $400.

Yeah, it looks like you're losing more than back illumination of the left side.

Sometimes the DICs pop up on EBay for around $100.00 but you'll need one for your year group. The earlier ones won't work because they did not have performance shift on the display. BTW - Ed advertises and markets his stuff on EBay.

I have a wiring diagram for a 97 - 99 and the pin outs are basically the same less the changes. There is no good documentation on the DIC internal part though, only block wiring diagrams that show where the inputs from the sensors come in and from the lighting system.

Let me know and I can email an attachment to you.






http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Yeah, it looks like you're losing more than back illumination of the left side.

Sometimes the DICs pop up on EBay for around $100.00 but you'll need one for your year group. The earlier ones won't work because they did not have performance shift on the display. BTW - Ed advertises and markets his stuff on EBay.

I have a wiring diagram for a 97 - 99 and the pin outs are basically the same less the changes. There is no good documentation on the DIC internal part though, only block wiring diagrams that show where the inputs from the sensors come in and from the lighting system.

Let me know and I can email an attachment to you.
.

Right now that wiring diagram would be better than nothing. I have a chiltons, but don't think it has the internal wiring diagrams...does it happen to tell you what the V's are supposed to be for the different pins? i'll pm you with my email.

It's def. a dealer part to, no parts stores carry it.

Thanks for the info on Ed. i am going to search around ebay and see if I can find something there.

BTW - The link is not working but I know the procedure that was posted on ClubGP. It was for a '97 GTP.

.

I think you have to be logged in b/c that link checks for a cookie with your login and password...

GTPED@msn.com is his email.

I think you have to be logged in b/c that link checks for a cookie with your login and password...

Thats correct. I got it. Or sometimes when you post a message thread link from ClubGP to AF you have to delete the last part on the url after cookies. It's the thread ID number. See example below and execute the second link. Just a trick around the log-in.


http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=1079553&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1&cookie<b>Check=852918312</b>;

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=1079553&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1&cookie

It's a good post on the DIC at ClubGP because it will set everyone straight on the proper substitute bulb which is a #24. I hate speculation.








http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

GTPED@msn.com is his email.


Thanks!

I also found an order form at moradpartscompany.com

Here is what I found on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38660&item=8013905072&sspagename=rvireg%3A1%3A1

looks right...

Thanks for the info on the link bob. I will make sure I do that next time :smokin:

Thanks!

I also found an order form at moradpartscompany.com

Here is what I found on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38660&item=8013905072&sspagename=rvireg%3A1%3A1

looks right...

Thanks for the info on the link bob. I will make sure I do that next time :smokin:


On your 2000 GTP do you have performance shift indicator on the DIC like below? If you do, then I would check with Ed and see if that DIC for the '99 has it too just to be sure. Good luck on the bidding. If you want that wiring diagram, just send me a PM with regular email address.

The way the lamps work is there is always 12v on one side of the lamp when ignition switch is set to on. The sensors send a low (like a ground) to turn on the respective light. I suspect that the isolation diodes on the DIC board are bad.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/dic.jpg







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

On your 2000 GTP do you have performance shift indicator on the DIC like below? If you do, then I would check with Ed and see if that DIC for the '99 has it too just to be sure. Good luck on the bidding. If you want that wiring diagram, just send me a PM with regular email address.
.

I do have the perf shift indicator on mine. I will email him and ask.

PM sent
The way the lamps work is there is always 12v on one side of the lamp when ignition switch is set to on. The sensors send a low (like a ground) to turn on the respective light. I suspect that the isolation diodes on the DIC board are bad.

well then I might have more of a problem than the DIC. when I checked the voltages on the lights with the ign on i don't get a 12v reading...i get a really low .02...

I'm at a loss right now...maybe i just fried the board and that's all that is required...

I do have the perf shift indicator on mine. I will email him and ask.

PM sent


well then I might have more of a problem than the DIC. when I checked the voltages on the lights with the ign on i don't get a 12v reading...i get a really low .02...

I'm at a loss right now...maybe i just fried the board and that's all that is required...


If all other electrical is OK like the instrument panel and console, etc. it could still be the DIC because of those diodes I mentioned earlier. With the wiring diagram I sent you find and disconnect the DIC connector and check the 12v and ground at the connector without DIC connected. If 12v is good, the circuit is being loaded down by possibly one or more shorted diodes. The diodes help isolate signal from sensors and the illumination side. Still a good idea to troubleshoot further just to make sure it is a bad DIC, otherwise a waste of money. Good luck!







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

If all other electrical is OK like the instrument panel and console, etc. it could still be the DIC because of those diodes I mentioned earlier. With the wiring diagram I sent you find and disconnect the DIC connector and check the 12v and ground at the connector without DIC connected. If 12v is good, the circuit is being loaded down by possibly one or more shorted diodes. The diodes help isolate signal from sensors and the illumination side. Still a good idea to troubleshoot further just to make sure it is a bad DIC, otherwise a waste of money. Good luck!



From what i can tell on teh diagram it's the Pink wire...can you confirm?

I also fried my I/P fuse while i was doing some testing...tried to run a wire from teh TCS OFF light to one of the lights taht wasn't lighting up...POP no more I/P...heh, whoops...whats weird is before i replaced the I/P fuse, all the lights on the DIC came on (not the display, just the diodes) then went off again and now back to square 1. replaced the I/P fuse and all is well. (cept fo the DIC.)

Pink is hot, I checked it and I am reading 12 at the connector. reconnected to the DIC and checked on the other side of the board and I have 12 there also...I hate electrical problems :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

I also fried my I/P fuse while i was doing some testing...tried to run a wire from teh TCS OFF light to one of the lights taht wasn't lighting up...POP no more I/P...heh, whoops...whats weird is before i replaced the I/P fuse, all the lights on the DIC came on (not the display, just the diodes) then went off again and now back to square 1. replaced the I/P fuse and all is well. (cept fo the DIC.)

Yes pink wire is the main 12v from the fuse that popped. Sounds like you're on the right track. I'd put odds in favor the DIC at this point. Plus I give you an "A" for effort and resolve. Good luck!









http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

Hey bob, here's a side note...when you put on your gatorbacks, particularly the serp belt...did you notice a nice loud whine when you would rev a little bit? I can't hear it as much since i put the FWI on, but it's still there...it's kinda grown on me, sounds mean... :evillol:

Ordered a new DIC from Ed. He said that was the one I needed. Bob, Thanks for all you help...as usual, you got the answers i need.

Hey bob, here's a side note...when you put on your gatorbacks, particularly the serp belt...did you notice a nice loud whine when you would rev a little bit? I can't hear it as much since i put the FWI on, but it's still there...it's kinda grown on me, sounds mean... :evillol:

Yeah, it has a slight whine but that's our trademark. You get used to it. The Ricers like the sound so much that they go out buy those SC or turbo sound makers. :lol2: Keep us posted and let us how it turns out. :bigthumb:









http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

hello, i currently need the wiring diagram for the dic connector. the one in my car has 20 wires, and i just got a new dic off ebay, is the same part number, and has a red wire making that 21. so i need to see what is up and try to get one of the 3 dics i have to work!!! please someone e-mail it to me zellyhxc@aol.com

ahhh, well, We usually dont resurrect old posts... Bob is going to be mad!! :grinno:

But I just did a conversion, You can check it out here

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=5020348#post5020348