B18a vs b16a1

What are the specs for both of these? I heard the b18 has 135hp with around 125lb/ft.... is that about right? Also, what are the specs are on the b16a1? I think its 160hp and 111lb/ft.

I have an 89 crx and I was wondering which is the best engine to drop into it. Which one runs a faster quarter mile, and which one has the most upgradability? Also (the big Q) what are the prices on both of them, i know the b16 costs more but is it worth the money. my plans are, well were to buy a b16a1 dohc vtec from jdm or hondamotorsonline.com and bore it out to either 1,8 or 2.0 liters and go turbo. but then i started hearing stuff about how b18a's were lil bit cheaper and pretty much just as good as b16 because of their torque, plz help me out, i could use allll the knowledge i can take in before i make my decision, thanx...

the b18a hp depends on the what year your b18a is, 90-91 is 130hp and the 92-93 is 140hp.

b18a's are pretty much just as expensive if you buy it from a performance dealer but if you can get one from a junkyard then it can be really cheap. with the b18a you can always go ls-vtec which is pretty bad ass. but if you dont want to go that drastic then i would suggest going b16a.

if the engines were stock then the b16a would be faster than the b18a.

k heres what i think: if you got enough money to get the engine and the turbo right now then go b18a, if you got enough money just to get the engine and you cant afford the turbo for like a year then i say to b16a, if you got enough money to get the engine then have like 500 after then go lsvtec. hope this helps

I just helped my friend put a B18a in his 88 CRX a week ago. He went to a junkyard and told them what he wanted to do and they gave him the front clip from a 90 integra for $400. They bascially cut the car in half and gave him the front half. He got a dam good deal. Will the motor and tranny from the 92-93 fit in the same as the 90. Did anything major change between the years ?

the 92-93 is obd1 where as the 90-91 is obd 0. Since your friend has the whole front cut, he could switch his car to obd1 pretty easily though, Assuming he has the full harness.




as for blah, what are your plans for your car? forced induction or all motor? if youre going turbo, go with the b18.

If i got a 93 integra front clip like he did all i would have to do is swap out the wire harness to make it OBD 1 . Right ?

I wanna build an engine like b18 LS/VTEC+TURBO but what u guys think...?
Comparing B20vtec vs B18 LS/VTEC, which is better torque, strenght, upgradable, I mean fully built & turbo?????

Originally posted by silver89civic
I wanna build an engine like b18 LS/VTEC+TURBO but what u guys think...?
Comparing B20vtec vs B18 LS/VTEC, which is better torque, strenght, upgradable, I mean fully built & turbo?????

id go b20vtec, due to the larger displacement/torque. Although you could get the ls block for cheaper.
heres some sites on the b20vtec if you haven't seen them.
http://www.b20vtec.com/frontpage.html
http://crvtec.com/

Thanks EightOhOne!
I'll do some more research, I'm still trying to figure out what's the best swap for my 4g civic...to have 200-250whp

if you are SERIOUSLY considering doing ANY of these swaps, you need to educate yourself a lot more man. Don't waste your time with any frankenstein conversions because it's gonna break your heart when you put a piston through a cylinder wall because of the ass-eating rod to stroke ratio of the LS-VTEC monster. If you want turbo, go with a b18a of b18b, so that you wont have to worry about modifying your engine's electronics to work a turbo and VTEC, because b18a and b are dohc non-vtec, and you still have the superior 1900cc's of displacement. Also, don't consider turbo-ing your b16a unless you are ready for weeks of electrical tuning, reinforcing of the stock internals, and making your forced induction work with the revered VTEC which will kick in at the same RPM as your everyday t34 turbo system. it sounds like you're kind of new to this, and you're horse-hungry, but you need to understand that you dont need to go so extreme to get 210 horses. Now for my 10 cents on a engine choice... B16a1 jdm ($1400 tops at your doorstep with transmission, ecu, and the works), then, begin replacing the commom bolt-ons (intake manifold, exhaust, etc...) with ITR (integra type R) components. all B-series components are interchangeable, but some variations include compressions of pistons, cable/hydraulic transmissions, etc... continue to also replace pistons, cams, retainers, springs, gaskets (always replace gaskets when swapping) to ITR, and possibly portflow your head. Naturally aspirated, with the right airflow and inner engine harmony, your B will run over 200 whp, and if you want after that, invest in a Apex VAFC controller (which will control and record your fuel/air mixture and allow you to tune it (and your vtec timing) from your driver seat), which will (in part) allow you to throw that turbo on and make it work with the VTEC (which you should probably be told stands for variable valve timing electronic control) which, very basically stated, means that in the lower RPMs, your B is a purring cheetah waiting to strike, and when it hits the RPM sweet spot, which can be easily tuned but most commonly lies between 4 and 5 G's, it is unleashed, and your engine begins running a dramatically more agressive cam grind, which accels you to nearly pissing you pants the first time you experience it. with that brief message, i wish you luck, and i'm always here for any more questions you have. Girls, 4th gens, and girls:smoka: -ice

Thanks C16
I have $5k to put on my 4g. I just want to be able to beat V8s. That's all and of course, have FUN drag racing :D

who is this c16, he makes it sound like were idiots. we all know the side effects of ls vtec, piston through the wall usually only happens under high boost or high rpm. if you got 5 grand then you can get over 200 hp with ls vtec.

ls vtec with type r pistons will give you a 12:1 comp ratio then get type r cams. but thats only if you want to go all motor, personally i think al motor suck, but only go ls vtec if you gonna build it right. shops usually charge around 1500 for lsvtec conversion. with this setup youll run 13s.

its hard to beat V8s with only 5 grand to spend. when you get into all motor you gotta start running racing fuel and stuff to get serious about beating V8s, forced induction is better

with the b16 since it is already has suck high comp buying type r stuff doesnt really add that much and it wont give you that much more hp, at least not the kind of hp your looking for

hope this helps.

I know, I know..Im gonna put a turbo eventually but I just wanna do something for the moment...damn! Im running a D15B!!! and Im sick and tired of going slow...
so I thought going LS/VTEC+turbo would be a good option. I may get a T3/T4 turbo customized pipping...

You want 200hp?


option 1.

Take one JDM B16a, leave internals standard, add one high lift and duration intake cam, and mix with similar exhaust cam from any number of manufactors. Uprate valve springs to suit.
Install one VAFC or similar tunable piggy back ECU and blend the whole combination on a dyno untill well sorted.

For extra spice add a a set of 4-1 headers.

(for more HP replace B16a with B18c)

Option 2.

Take one B18a or B20b. Leave it standard but mix with one of many B series Turbo kits. Run at about 6psi of boost on the standard ECU.
For more extreme hp levels, lower CR with new pistons and attach them to stronger aftermarket rods.
Wind up even more boost, 10psi should do, then tune on a dyno with a suitable piggy back ECU.


Option 3.

Take one B16a and add a Turbo or Supercharger to stock internals.
Run no more than 6psi of boost and complement stock ECU with a fuel pressure regualtor suitably tuned on a dyno.

(again, for extra spice us a B18c)


Opton 4.
(Caution, the following should only be attempted by experianced and mechanicaly minded people. Having a second car to use is very important, as is having a good colection of tools, plenty of money, access to a work shop and suitable machine shop, (a B16a head will not fit on a B20a with out having the compustion chamber machined out.))
Take one B18a or B20a engine block and add one B16a cylinder head.
Add either wild cams or Turbo, or both.
Run lots of boost. Tune with suitable piggy back ECU.
Fix motor every other weekend, and rebuild it at least once every year.




And remember that once you've got hold of all this extra hp it dosnt mean shit if your car still has its stock suspension and brakes.
Anything short of 4wheel discs and a matched set of new springs, shocks and sway bars is a total waste of time.

civickiller: who is this c16, he makes it sound like were idiots. we all know the side effects of ls vtec, piston through the wall usually only happens under high boost or high rpm. if you got 5 grand then you can get over 200 hp with ls vtec.

Watcha' mouth civickiller, your talking to someone who builds B series engines for a living. I've had the pleasure of growing up with C16, and without reservation i can say he knows more about Honda engines than you know about your own family. He's built 8 LS/VTEC's, and bluprinted every one, 2 of which have blown the f*&$ up. The problem is the R/S ratio, and contrary to popular belief, you can't build a "reliable" LS/VTEC due to it. here's a story... the b18a and b blocks run a stock crank who's rod stroke runs significantly longer than any VTEC engine's, so we tried using a b17a crank which corrected a little bit because of the B17's similar displacement, shorter R/S ratio, and strength at higher compression, but then we ran into another problem.. piston dome clearance. The VTEC head, mounted, is so near the piston at stroke peak, it is dangerously close, and with cast pistons which WILL expand under intense heat, you will be knocking that bitch all the way from 8 to 10 G's. plus, you can't expect to run a 12:1 compression ratio with 1800cc's of displacement, it's like using a lady finger insted of an M80 under a garbage can and expecting it to budge. if you do run high comp. pistons, one of many things you should never do with this setup, is to run high compression pistons without first sleeving the cylinders, if at all. this is the reason: at the peak of the piston's rise, the rod, which is running a horribly offset R/S ratio, is pushing that poor little piston against the cylinder wall and not straight up into the cylinder. a stock b16 runs an almost perfect R/S of 1:74 to the ideal 1:75, and the LS/VTEC will run 1:60 at best. It's a lot like having sex with a virgin with 7" diameter piece... painful... for her, then also for your engine. back to the story... After the crank being replaced, 11.1 compression pistons (cast), forged rods, ITR internals in the head -cams, retainers, springs, intake manifold, rings-, fuel pumps, injectors, rail, filters, and sleeving the cylinders, we mapped our fuel to serve a 64mm throttle body, inducing a Turbonetics T4 liquid to air intercooled system, and a hondata/Apex VAFC piggy back ECU combination, the beast was running an impressive 375 whp, 16psi of boost, and torque that escapes me, but i'll post dyno slips soon. Now for the sad part... It was a 85 degree day in Cali, just off I5 in San Pamona, where we were having a meet. We were staging the turbo about 20 minutes prior to the race and the Hondata was flashing code 4 (the block was detecting a knock). frantically, we tried our best to tune our bottom end while staging, and got the code corrected, we were set. Running the expected 13 psi (conservatively), we lined up against a Gsr (b18c1). Flagger dropped and we were off, at 5500 the turbo and VTEC kicked in at the same time, exactly what you don't want to happen, and what we were afraid might happen after tuning prior to the race. it was exhilerating, but gut wrenching as we began to feel the knock again. The VAFC was out of control, and showing the AF mix was extremely rich, then shifting into 3rd at 10 g's and about 62 mph, we heard an extremely loud hollow thump, and the hood was dented upwards about 6 inches. The blow off whistled for it's last time and was followed by my saying "Oh Fuck". C was in tears. There was over 6000 into that engine, it was just flushed down the toilet. This is what happened: At 9600 rpm through 2nd gear, the crank ejected two pistons from the rods when they became jammed on the downward motion of it's stroke, then pushed up and out by the then bent crank shaft, one up into it's combustion chamber with so much force it popped the valve cover straight off the head. The second ejected piston was blow forward through it's cylinder wall, and blew the exhaust manifold clear off of the block. we never even found the gasket or the heads of the manifold's bolts. the best part was, the front left head stud from the popped valve cover ricoched off of the hood and into the turbine of the turbo charger, jamming, distroying, and completely disasselbling the turbine's structure, and the exhaust manifold pushed into the fluidyne radiator, which in turn even broke the front end of the body kit after bending the steel bumper assembly. What i'm saying is, C16 is a professional, and even after extensive time, money, and effort even HE couldn't keep what happened from happening. He is trying to warn everyone so that they dont have to go what he went through, and you're telling him that he makes people feel stupid? the knowledge you can learn from him is so extensive you can't comprehend. look up the word "appreciation" in the dictionary, get some, and then post. If you think you know that much abount honda's, that's great, but telling someone to spend 5 G's on an engine you obviously know jack shit about, and probably haven't owned, over someone who lives and breathes them, you have a serious problem:finger:. Just dont forget that this scene is about one love, and passing on the knowledge to the next guy who needs some help, and especially the ones who need good advice is what you're supposed to do. so just have a little more respect, this is our scene, and if you hold a grudge against C, you're missing out on invaluable information, and if you see him on the street, you'll wish you could make out his warning lights blinking when he's done with you. Oh yeah, you will not run near a 13 w/ ITR cams or pistons. We ran our last N/A LS/VTEC BRAND NEW, yes, 0 MILES, and it ran a 14.5. you're a horrible guesser killer, a horrible guesser, Stay away from Cali. peace, love, and hondas. thanks, Wr.

What the crap is wrong with you people, calm down :eek:

Ok, for one... don't go ls/vtec or crvtec unless you have the money to rebuild it and replace stuff constantly. It is strictly a race setup.

Do something simple like what Moppie said. With the b16a setup he described 5.0's shouldn't be a problem at all. If all you want to do is beat mustangs, just drop in a b16a or b18b and learn to drive.

My friens just put a B18a into his CRX and i was wondering what it should do in the quater.

hey white rice, if you only ran a 14.5 with a na ls vtec then you cant drive. i raced an ls vtec over here in a 92-95 hatch with stock b16 head with b16 pistons and i ran a 13.8 in it. basic bolt ons. that was not a guess, it was from past experience driving one. like i said, ls vtec isnt good under high boost or high rpm. your or c's lsvtec was under both conditions. idk how you build your motors over there but over here my friend runs a shop that built 3 ls vtec and nothin has happened to them. you making all these bad situations but he said he only wanted about 200-250 whp which is easy to get with an ls vtec and does not require high boost or high rpm.

it would be hard to get 250whp with a b16 which would mean you gotta get internals and stuff which will cost more than 5 grand. with ls vtec all you need is rods, the head, b16 oil pump w squiters, b16 pistons, then you can use money to get bolt ons and get up to the hp you want

whatever you guys say i do know from experience. alot of maintence with forced induction so that why i say ls vtec because its easier

yes i also wonder how fast a b18a would be in a 4th gen hatch because i am about to do that swap ?

I'm guessin a low 15 to a high 14 stock. Thats my guess.

Originally posted by white rice


Watcha' mouth civickiller, your talking to someone who builds B series engines for a living. I've had the pleasure of growing up with C16, and without reservation i can say he knows more about Honda engines than you know about your own family. He's built 8 LS/VTEC's, and bluprinted every one, 2 of which have blown the f*&$ up. The problem is the R/S ratio, and contrary to popular belief, you can't build a "reliable" LS/VTEC due to it. here's a story... the b18a and b blocks run a stock crank who's rod stroke runs significantly longer than any VTEC engine's, so we tried using a b17a crank which corrected a little bit because of the B17's similar displacement, shorter R/S ratio, and strength at higher compression, but then we ran into another problem.. piston dome clearance. The VTEC head, mounted, is so near the piston at stroke peak, it is dangerously close, and with cast pistons which WILL expand under intense heat, you will be knocking that bitch all the way from 8 to 10 G's. plus, you can't expect to run a 12:1 compression ratio with 1800cc's of displacement, it's like using a lady finger insted of an M80 under a garbage can and expecting it to budge. if you do run high comp. pistons, one of many things you should never do with this setup, is to run high compression pistons without first sleeving the cylinders, if at all. this is the reason: at the peak of the piston's rise, the rod, which is running a horribly offset R/S ratio, is pushing that poor little piston against the cylinder wall and not straight up into the cylinder. a stock b16 runs an almost perfect R/S of 1:74 to the ideal 1:75, and the LS/VTEC will run 1:60 at best. It's a lot like having sex with a virgin with 7" diameter piece... painful... for her, then also for your engine. back to the story... After the crank being replaced, 11.1 compression pistons (cast), forged rods, ITR internals in the head -cams, retainers, springs, intake manifold, rings-, fuel pumps, injectors, rail, filters, and sleeving the cylinders, we mapped our fuel to serve a 64mm throttle body, inducing a Turbonetics T4 liquid to air intercooled system, and a hondata/Apex VAFC piggy back ECU combination, the beast was running an impressive 375 whp, 16psi of boost, and torque that escapes me, but i'll post dyno slips soon. Now for the sad part... It was a 85 degree day in Cali, just off I5 in San Pamona, where we were having a meet. We were staging the turbo about 20 minutes prior to the race and the Hondata was flashing code 4 (the block was detecting a knock). frantically, we tried our best to tune our bottom end while staging, and got the code corrected, we were set. Running the expected 13 psi (conservatively), we lined up against a Gsr (b18c1). Flagger dropped and we were off, at 5500 the turbo and VTEC kicked in at the same time, exactly what you don't want to happen, and what we were afraid might happen after tuning prior to the race. it was exhilerating, but gut wrenching as we began to feel the knock again. The VAFC was out of control, and showing the AF mix was extremely rich, then shifting into 3rd at 10 g's and about 62 mph, we heard an extremely loud hollow thump, and the hood was dented upwards about 6 inches. The blow off whistled for it's last time and was followed by my saying "Oh Fuck". C was in tears. There was over 6000 into that engine, it was just flushed down the toilet. This is what happened: At 9600 rpm through 2nd gear, the crank ejected two pistons from the rods when they became jammed on the downward motion of it's stroke, then pushed up and out by the then bent crank shaft, one up into it's combustion chamber with so much force it popped the valve cover straight off the head. The second ejected piston was blow forward through it's cylinder wall, and blew the exhaust manifold clear off of the block. we never even found the gasket or the heads of the manifold's bolts. the best part was, the front left head stud from the popped valve cover ricoched off of the hood and into the turbine of the turbo charger, jamming, distroying, and completely disasselbling the turbine's structure, and the exhaust manifold pushed into the fluidyne radiator, which in turn even broke the front end of the body kit after bending the steel bumper assembly. What i'm saying is, C16 is a professional, and even after extensive time, money, and effort even HE couldn't keep what happened from happening. He is trying to warn everyone so that they dont have to go what he went through, and you're telling him that he makes people feel stupid? the knowledge you can learn from him is so extensive you can't comprehend. look up the word "appreciation" in the dictionary, get some, and then post. If you think you know that much abount honda's, that's great, but telling someone to spend 5 G's on an engine you obviously know jack shit about, and probably haven't owned, over someone who lives and breathes them, you have a serious problem:finger:. Just dont forget that this scene is about one love, and passing on the knowledge to the next guy who needs some help, and especially the ones who need good advice is what you're supposed to do. so just have a little more respect, this is our scene, and if you hold a grudge against C, you're missing out on invaluable information, and if you see him on the street, you'll wish you could make out his warning lights blinking when he's done with you. Oh yeah, you will not run near a 13 w/ ITR cams or pistons. We ran our last N/A LS/VTEC BRAND NEW, yes, 0 MILES, and it ran a 14.5. you're a horrible guesser killer, a horrible guesser, Stay away from Cali. peace, love, and hondas. thanks, Wr.




That is one of the funnist and longest piles of totaly technical bullshit I have ever read.

Good for a laugh but thats about it.


However if I ever catch you flaming another member in here again I will engage my VTEC and Turbo at the same time at 5,500rpm use my VAFC to tune my bottom end, and then at 10gs I will ban your arse 6inchs through the bonnet. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

dang! :eek:
Im getting tons of info, thanks!:)
Still doing more research, anyways, what do you guys think of B18LS/VTEC vs B18C1 ??? Turbo would come later.

I did have a link to phhatwhippin's page, it had a really good article on the downfalls of Ls/vTec, but I can't find it.

There are several reasons why you shouldn't do it. Just get the B18c, you will have WAY less problems. The B18c should be able to pull a 14.5 in the quarter with a good driver, but it does depend on the climate, altitude and all that good stuff.

White Rice uses a lot of analogies and stuff. Its real funny. I get a lot of different stories about both the LSVTEC and the CRVTEC, I just wish i knew what to believe.

so whats the price range on fully built motors of B18LS/VTEC & B18C1???
Cuz I could get the B18LS/vtec fully built +swap for 4400 OR hondamotorsonline.com sells B18C1 for 3300

sorry if anyone felt flamed, just had to throw my 25 cents. peace love and unity, and sorry especially civickiller, just realize where i'm coming from. Losing an engine is like losing a loved one, and it's a feeling i dont wish on my worst enemies, sorry all and i hope some of the info was useful. oh, a built b18 will run anywhere from 1500 to 2200 depending on the head you mount to the ls block, and i'd recommend a b18c1 or 5 (a tad more expensive, but bangs for it's buck). peace -wr

hey white rice dont apologize no need for that. if you do want to be safe and not have to worry then dont go ls vtec, thats is true it is really dangerous motor. i wouldnt go b18c1 unless you get a jdm one, because usdm in only 170hp which the same as a b16a2 so its not really that worth but you do get about 15 more tq but i wouldnt want to spend 1 grand just for 15 torq but thats just my opinion.

and if you do want to go turbo later than you shouldnt go ls vtec i would say b16 because you can get a complete b16 swap for like, over here its 3000, installed and then have over 2000 to get some mods or save up for a turbo or nos.

but ls vtec would make more power than b18c1

PEACE, LOVE & CARS! :)

Im gonna do more searching, but thank you all you guys!
Im gonna talk to JG engines and Import Builders to see if they got any deals on swaps cuz they are so close to where I live... Anyone had experience with them?

doesnt jg build ls vtec's ? thats the jg edelbrock your taking aobut right

www.jgenginedynamics.com.
they got an lsvtec on there running high boost

i know import builders sell some motors that they build up and i mean BUILD UP.....their crvtec pumps out 225 whp N/A.....that's pretty damn crazy.....who knows if it's reliable......most likely it is since it costs 12 GRAND!!!!.....but i have mixed feelings about these frankenstein motors.....some people say they'll blow up before you hit 30,000 miles.....some people say ls/vtec is like the best n/a motor....i say do what you want to do most......but just do your research.....especially on AF.....i respect the information that people from these forums pour out, it's pretty damn cool and i usually come to AF for info then check out other websites......

Yep, these guys...

http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/main

http://www.importbuilders.com

The reliablity of a Hybrid depends almost intierly on the knowledge and skill of the engine builder.

An LS/VTEC is not really that hard to put together, provided you have the basic knowledge of what to do.
But I think you will find that to do it properly requires a lot more knoweldge, tools and machinery than the average back yard mechanic has access to.
You after all putting together two major engine parts that were never designed to work together.


So basicly if you have to ask how to build an LS/VTEC, or wonder if you should do it instead of swaping in a B16a or B18c then you clearly dont have the knowledge or skill to do it.

Your welcome to try, and its really the only way to learn how to do it properly. However dont expect it to be an easy cheap or reliable learning curve.

Swaping in a B16a or B18c is a far far safer option.

I know I got no knowledge, otherwise I wouldn't be asking.
This is my first swapping and I never said that I was gonna do it PERSONALLY. My friends are helping me out and other people from 5 other different forums are also...

But Id like to hear people's different opinions cuz I get to hear the pro and cons of the Bseries engines. I appreciate yo all guys opinions and inputs. I only wanted simple information :)

I'm needing to buy a front bumper for my 1991 crx thats not stock and I would like to buy one that is used I had on that I was getting on ebay and the guy charged me $90.00 for shipping and I sent him the money for it and now he's trying to shipping was $100 so he thinks he can just send me my money back over $10.00 THATS BULL SH*T WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK

I'm needing to buy a front bumper for my 1991 crx thats not stock and I would like to buy one that is used I had on that I was getting on ebay and the guy charged me $90.00 for shipping and I sent him the money for it and now he's trying to shipping was $100 so he thinks he can just send me my money back over $10.00 THATS BULL SH*T WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK

WTF???
Don't post your crap in unrelated threads. Not only are u a newb, but it makes you a flamer too....two things you don't want to be...

Anyway, this thread is useless. Too much misinformation and he-said she-said bull. Don't take advice from someone who has a B18a about a crvtec because he "heard" it's unreliable.

I will offer my advice on the motor I would choose...
obviously, i would say the B20 non vtec option. Gobs of torque and cheap as hell. It is comparable to B16a's with HP but with 20 more ft/lbs of torque to the wheel. Not only that, it's where the power is available that makes the difference. If you were to look at dyno sheets of I/H/E b20s vs. similar b16's the b20 clearly has more power in the right places. A B20 seriously has more TQ at IDLE in stock form then a B16a has at any point in it's powerband....even with all the type-r goodies and bolt ons.

I have ran and beat MANY (not heard of, but have done myself) B16 powered anythings.....crx, hatches, integras, etc.

I used to think that the B16 was the best bang for the buck. But now, I would say it's number 2. Bolt up a b16 tranny (Y1) and you have yourself a very low 14 crx with just I/H/E and you'll be able to look at all the people wondering what the hell you got "inside"...
they question how i pull the way i do without "vtec yo" or turbo.

This is still a new motor on the streets and I really see this thing taking over in the near future...more and more people are using them.

Yo bam, with my basic rebuilt b18a with b16a pistons, what could I do to get some more outta it with getting to crazy? Not sure that I wanna do the LS/VTEC yet. Should I bother with Intake manifold or Cams? What do you think would be the next best step?

B20b+boost+VTEC = Only way to fly

Please let this retarded thread die everyone.

Thanks and merry christmas. :)

woha...that is the biggest load of BS i have ever read..... ok siz i just had to add my $0.02...lol

this thread is over 2 years old! NEVER BRING BACK OLD THREADS!!!!!!!!! :banghead:

I'm needing to buy a front bumper for my 1991 crx thats not stock and I would like to buy one that is used I had on that I was getting on ebay and the guy charged me $90.00 for shipping and I sent him the money for it and now he's trying to shipping was $100 so he thinks he can just send me my money back over $10.00 THATS BULL SH*T WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK


If i could do the ban him smiley, I would.

omfg i HATE THAT

I never look at when the thread was made. I get all in to it and it's old as hell. The worst thing is he said some shit that had nothing to do with the subject LOL

Wtf?ghetto People On Computers?yo Dude Check It Out It Doesn't Matter The Engine Or Tranny More Its The Driver I Take B Series Engines Out All The Time With My D16 So Come Ya Ass Down

Again! Thread Is Over 2 Years Old! Mods Lock This Or Delete It Or Something