Can I change a rear wheel bearing on 96 Intrepid?

Reason I ask is because when I went to buy one at AutoZone they were telling me it has to be pressed off and on with a special machine and that it is not something I can do.
So I checked at the shop and they want $300. So that burns me up since I know the part is only $50.
So my question is, on a 1996 Intrepid (3.3L V6 if it matters) I need to replace my passenger side rear wheel bearing. Is it a job I can do at home?
My car repair skills are at the level where I can do break pads, alternators, etc. I once tried to do a timing belt though and that didn't g so well :)

Thanks for your advice!

Now, before I go any farther, I need to know why you are changing the axle bearings? Do you know for sure that they are bad, or do you just hear a howling noice from your rear wheels? Howling rear wheels could be bad bearings or just older tires making noice. The rear wheels on my 1991 Dodge Shadow were howling earlier this year. I replaced all four bearing sets in the rear myself, even though they didn't look pitted or discolored. I also rotated my tires front to rear. When I drove the car again, I found that the howling had moved from the rear wheels to the front wheels. I guess my rear wheel bearings weren't as bad as I thought. My tires are four years old and still have lots of tread, so I will live with the howling for now.

Some rear axle bearings need to be pressed on and off, other do not. The young boys down at AutoZone earn minimum wage and have only a half-vast knowledge of automobiles, so I would only believe half of what they say. Mechanics, on the other hand, have a vast knowledge of cars and can identify the most economical way to fix a problem. Unfortunately, a mechanic can make more money replacing parts than they do making minor adjustments. They also know that most customers don't know anything about cars. Some less ethical ones have been know to charge customers for replacing parts when all they actually do to the car is a minor adjustment.

Rear wheel drive cars with differentials have internal axle shafts with one axle bearing set pressed onto the outer end of each axle. Replacement of these bearings requires removal of the rear brake assemblies and backing plates to gain access to the shafts. The $300 estimate for replacing rear axle bearings is consistent with a rear wheel drive car with a differential.

Front wheel drive cars have rear axle bearing sets which are mounted on the inside and outside of each rear wheel hub. You have two bearing sets for each wheel hub. A single nut and washer retains the hub and bearing assemblies on the fixed axle stub on each side of the car.

I am not that familiar with the Intrepid. However, it is a front wheel drive car and I would expect you have rear drum-style brakes. A few months ago, I changed the rear axle bearings on my FWD 1991 Dodge Shadow by myself and with very few special tools. If you find that the rear brake drum and axle design of your Intrepid is like my Shadow, you too can do this job yourself.

The brake drums and rear axle bearings in the rear of my Shadow are of similar design to the brake drums and front axle bearings in my 1964 Chryslers. You have two bearing sets for each wheel hub. There is an inner bearing and an outer bearing.

The special tools needed for this job are a grease gun with axle grease, a grease packing cone, a soft metal drift, a hammer or light weight sledge, and a bearing race driver.

The parts you will need for each wheel are grease seals, one for each wheel regardless, one inner bearing set for each wheel and one outer bearing set for each wheel. I suggest replacing the bearing sets only if the existing bearings show obvious wear. And then, replace only the sets which are worn and/or damaged.

Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut cap, retaining nut and washer. This will reveal the outer bearing. Pull on the drum and the outer bearing will pop away from the drum. Pull this off the axle first. Then pull the drum off the axle. Inside the drum, you will see a round grease seal on the center axle opening. Remove the grease seal and discard. Below the grease seal is the inner bearing which you can remove with your fingers. The bearing races, one on each side, are pressed into the hub and will remain there.

The next step is to inspect the condition of the existing bearings. First clean the surfaces of the bearing races. If any race is pitted, scored or discolored, then this bearing set must be replaced. If they look clean, smooth and a normal steel color, then the race is good.

Next inspect the bearings themselves. If the rollers are scored, discolored or falling out of the cages, the bearings must be replaced. Otherwise, if they look clean, whole and spin free, they can be reused.

Each bearing and race are a matched set. If either a bearing or its respective race are bad, they must be replaced together. Never reuse an old bearing with a new race or vice versa.

Should you find all of your bearings and races are good, simply repack each bearing with fresh grease, then reassemble using new grease seals on the inside of each hub.

Replacement of a bearing set will be a bit of a challenge. The race for each set is driven into the center of the hub. Removal requires driving the old race from the hub. Each race has an inner edge that protrudes into the axle cavity of the hub. Take your soft metal drift (an old flat blade screwdriver can work in a pinch), push it through the axle cavity from the opposite side and place it against the inside lip of the race you want to drive out. Then pound away on the drift with a mallet, hammer or sledge. Work around the entire edge of the race and keep going until you pound the race completely out.

Installing the new race is less challenging. It is made simpler with a race driver. This is a drift with removable, cone shaped heads which fit the contour of the bearing race. Set the new race in the opening, then drive in down using the driver and hammer. New bearings should be packed with grease. Then everything reassembles in reverse.

I hope this will be of help to you. Let us know your progress and whether or not you have any other questions or comments.

Reason I ask is because when I went to buy one at AutoZone they were telling me it has to be pressed off and on with a special machine and that it is not something I can do.
So I checked at the shop and they want $300. So that burns me up since I know the part is only $50.
So my question is, on a 1996 Intrepid (3.3L V6 if it matters) I need to replace my passenger side rear wheel bearing. Is it a job I can do at home?
My car repair skills are at the level where I can do break pads, alternators, etc. I once tried to do a timing belt though and that didn't g so well :)

Thanks for your advice!

yes, you can do it in about 30 minutes. Once you pull the back drums off, you'll have to get a socket and an extension and on the hub itself will be a hole that will allow you to remove the nuts that hold the hub & bearing assembly onto the lower control arm.

Thank you for a great reply! Hopefully I can reply in kind.

The reason I am looking to replace the rear wheel bearing is because last time I went in for tires they basically refused to do the job unless I got the bearing done. They said it would constantly pull my car out of alignment if I didn't replace the bearing. They said $300 and I told them I didn't have that much and left.

So I have been driving on it. Now I called my Dad, who is a lot better with this kind of stuff than I am, and he had me jack the car up and do a few simple tests.
He had me spin the tire by hand and see if it spins smoothly without any hesitations or "gritty" feeling. It spun fine and I didn't notice any problems.
Then he had me take the tire and try and move it in and out to see if there was any play in the tire. On this test these was about 1/4" of play where the tire would "wobble" slightly.
So with that he advised they were probably correct about the bearing.

Now one other thing I was looking at that seems a bit different than you were talking is that my Intrepid uses a "Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly". I was told by the few people I asked that the whole thing is a sealed cartridge and you replace the whole thing at once. And that was when some started saying it gets pressed on and off.

But a few things I can confirm is that it is FWD (you knew that) and that the back brakes are drums.

So I am hoping the cartridge makes it easier because after reading your description below, I think I follow, but at the same time after I buy the special tools that I don't have, and spend a day working on it, I may be better off just paying to have the job done. At least now I know $300 isn't a sham job.

But if this new info provides any additional insight for anyone I would love to hear it. Thanks!

Tom

yes, you can do it in about 30 minutes. Once you pull the back drums off, you'll have to get a socket and an extension and on the hub itself will be a hole that will allow you to remove the nuts that hold the hub & bearing assembly onto the lower control arm.

Thanks for the reply! Looks like this one came in while I was typing a reply to the first.
So is it a cartridge system then? No pressing? And the first post had me a bit confused. Does the new assembly I buy have the inner and the outer bearings in one package?

most auto part stores will sell you the entire hub/bearing assembly. Yes they are correct that you'll need to press fit it if you are replacing the bearing only. But nowadays, the hub & bearing is all one unit. So, like was mentioned before, all you have to do is take your brake drum off and unbolt the hub & bearing assembly from the control arm and you're good to go.

most auto part stores will sell you the entire hub/bearing assembly. Yes they are correct that you'll need to press fit it if you are replacing the bearing only. But nowadays, the hub & bearing is all one unit. So, like was mentioned before, all you have to do is take your brake drum off and unbolt the hub & bearing assembly from the control arm and you're good to go.

Dude, your my hero. I can do that! Thanks!