1995 Door Lock Problems...HELP Please

So an attempt was made to put an aftermarket alarm in the vehicle so that remote keyless entry would be possible and now there's nothing but problems.

1. First the car wouldn't unlock when put into Park, it would just lock when put into neutral or drive.
2. Now its decieded that the automatic door locks button will only work when the car door is closed. Sometimes it doesn't work at all, and others it sounds like its straning to work.

I've pulled the alarm hoping that might solve some of this but it didn't. I've also checked every fuse I could find and they all seem to be in working order. If anyone has any suggestions, please help.

Possible that the body control module has gone bad and needs replaced. This usually controls the automatic door locks especially with the external unlock.

Per your PM does your '95 GP have RAP - retained accessory power? For example with the radio on, turn off ignition, then leave car, when the open driver's side door the radio illumination should go out. Rap is what the BCM uses to go into sleep mode and a door opening or activation of a properly wired RKE will wake it up, otherwise, the power door locks actuators are inhibited. The BCM draws a lot of parasitic load on the battery and must be tuned down on current draw to acceptable levels or it will eventually kill the battery.

From 1996 and up for sure, aftermarket keyless entry must be wired to trick BCM into thinking a door has been opened so that it will "wake-up" the BCM and allow the electric unlock actuators to fire. I am not sure about the 1995 models.

The other possibility is the hookup of the aftermarket RKE took out the BCM or wiring was disturbed on the BCM electrical connectors.

Hope info helps and good luck.









http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

No, my 95 doesn't have RAP, or if its suppose to have it, its never worked. I'm guessing at this point that its part of my BCM thats gone bad. I say part because I'm still able to do somethings and get things to work in certain instances, just as use my power locks, but only when the door is closed. I went over all the wires when i took the aftermarket alarm out and everything locked and tested fine. At one point during the install of the aftermarket alarm, there was a power surge or something cause suddenly the thing went off and wouldn't stop, until I replaced the aftermarkets fuse. My guess is that that power surge probably took out parts of the BCM. Any ideas how much one would cost for a 1995? Or what another name for it might be? (Looked on several online parts dealers and couldn't find it) Thanks.

No, my 95 doesn't have RAP, or if its suppose to have it, its never worked. I'm guessing at this point that its part of my BCM thats gone bad. I say part because I'm still able to do somethings and get things to work in certain instances, just as use my power locks, but only when the door is closed. I went over all the wires when i took the aftermarket alarm out and everything locked and tested fine. At one point during the install of the aftermarket alarm, there was a power surge or something cause suddenly the thing went off and wouldn't stop, until I replaced the aftermarkets fuse. My guess is that that power surge probably took out parts of the BCM. Any ideas how much one would cost for a 1995? Or what another name for it might be? (Looked on several online parts dealers and couldn't find it) Thanks.

Good questions. I checked all the information I have for your model GP and I do not see a specific listing for a body control module. The BCM shows up starting on 1997 and up models. The only part shown that may be close is called the Theft Deterrent Module which is somewheres in the middle of the dashboard. It looks like accessory power works off of relays.

Richtazz should be able to come up with an answer. If he can't nobody can.

BTW - I forgot to mention on other "W" bodies like the 95 Regal there is a part everyone calls the "Chime module". It supposedly controls the power door locks via the transmission range switch. Located somewhere in the center of the driver's side of the dash and steering wheel.







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/gtp.jpg
Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

I'm going to take a look at that chime module this afternoon, also going to check the solenoids. Now the locks will only work when both doors are closed and after they've been closed for a small period of time, say 10-15 seconds. If you try the switch before that time period it gradually goes from doing nothing, to sounding like its barely getting any power and struggling to work, to working perfectly. It almost seems like it has to build up a charge, so i can't help but wonder if there isn't a short somewhere. The thing thats still reallly got me thrown, is that the locks will only work when the doors are closed or the pin switch is pushed in. Is it possible that its something with the pin switches?

P.S. Replaced both door lock switches and the relay that the switch wires ran to just inside the door. None of those changes made a difference.

After messing with it for an hour its deffinetly something with the pin switch. Or the pin switch is simply looking like the problem. Whenever the pin switches are out, the system seems to ground out. I could do the simple work around and just unhook the pins, but not sure I like the idea of losing my dome light ect. I guess at this point I'll have to try to find some place that specializes in electrical and have them take a look at it cause I couldn't find where it was grounding or why.

After messing with it for an hour its deffinetly something with the pin switch. Or the pin switch is simply looking like the problem. Whenever the pin switches are out, the system seems to ground out. I could do the simple work around and just unhook the pins, but not sure I like the idea of losing my dome light ect. I guess at this point I'll have to try to find some place that specializes in electrical and have them take a look at it cause I couldn't find where it was grounding or why.


If you see a ground when the pin switches are out that may be normal. One side of each pin switch is normally connected to ground. A ground or no ground is what they supply to the control module or interior lighting, in your case, possibly the chime module.

See link below, Figure 23:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/da/79/0900823d800eda79.jsp

Ok, I looked at all those diagrams, and they help only to a point. Here's a question for you though. How does the door locks become grounded? I ask because it seems like right now they only work when the doors are closed because thats when the door pin switch is grounding. I can't help but think that they are suppose to ground a different way and that second way is whats not connecting. Anyone offer any help on this? Thanks.

The door lock relay gets it's signal to lock the doors when the car is put in gear from the chime module as bnaylor suggested. You may have one or more door switches that are bad, or a broken wire between the car body and the door. The motors reverse polarity as the switches are depressed, so there is no definite + or - at the switches. All you can do is check for continuity in the wires between the switches(blue wire to blue wire, black to black, etc...) and see if you have a break or a short.

We know you are probably grasping for straws at this point but it sounds like you have a unique problem. It sort of sounds like the guys that have mid-nineties GM F body cars when an aftermarket system is installed. I found this link which covers the door pins and door locks. Scroll to the part when it says "Door Locks". Of course, we know you do not have a BCM per se but the chime module serves a similar function. Check it out and it may give you some insight. Other than that :dunno:.


http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/alarm96up3.htm

*****EXCERPT****

Special Considerations
This is where you have to do your work around because of RAP and the BCM. The unlock wire (ORANGE/BLACK) in your '96-97 requires a negative pulse to make it trigger. This same pulse must also be sent to a door trigger switch in order to wake up the BCM when you've been away from the vehicle for any length of time. The door trigger wire for the passenger side is BLACK with a WHITE stripe and is found in the blue 32-pin connector of the BCM. The driver's pin switch is GRAY/BLACK and located in the same place, not the green 6-pin connector. Either one can be used. Splice the unlock output from your security system using a pair of 1 amp diodes so that it makes connections to both switches.

Diodes are like electrical check valves which allow current to flow in only one direction. It doesn't matter if the current flows back to the keyless entry system from the switches; In this application the diodes prevent the door pin switch and the power unlock switch from actually sending negative pulses to each other through the splice which would otherwise mutually connect them. Failing to do so will cause the unlock actuators to fire every time the door trigger is released; or the door trigger to ground every time the unlock switch is depressed. You want current to flow TO the switches, but not back FROM them. Consequently the striped end of the diodes must be connected to the keyless entry system's side of the splice as shown in the diagram at right.