Neon doesn't start.
Mic1980
11-11-2005, 07:12 PM
My 1997 SOHC engine doesn't turn nor does the starter though the battery does give juice. It just wouldn't start(thats what my brother said). When I turne the key all u might here is 1 click maybe. After reading threw similar threads I'm gonna check the wire connections. The terminals arn't really corroded on inside but the bolts which tighten are corroded.
I replaced the battery after autozone tested it and said it was dead. I don't hear the starter teeth turning when the key is turned, also I did try to hit the starter and turn the car on at the same time. If anyone can direct me what I should check would be greatly appreciated. Starters go for 149.00 and up and thats including rebuilt. I have replaced the starter before on a neon and it's a pain.
edit: after further reading posts I missed
I replaced the battery after autozone tested it and said it was dead. I don't hear the starter teeth turning when the key is turned, also I did try to hit the starter and turn the car on at the same time. If anyone can direct me what I should check would be greatly appreciated. Starters go for 149.00 and up and thats including rebuilt. I have replaced the starter before on a neon and it's a pain.
edit: after further reading posts I missed
das2123
11-12-2005, 11:55 AM
You replaced the battery and it still doesn't start, right? You can check the starter relay, by swapping it with the horn relay and honking the horn. If it honks then your relay is good. I would double check all the connections as you said you did, and also check the wires underneath the battery tray. Sometimes acid will get down there and corrode the wires. Get those postnice and shiny and make sure the connections are real tight.
If you get it to crank a good method to keep corrosion off the terminals is to apply petroleum jelly all around it. It works and doesn't interfere with the connection.
If you get it to crank a good method to keep corrosion off the terminals is to apply petroleum jelly all around it. It works and doesn't interfere with the connection.
Mic1980
11-12-2005, 02:32 PM
Hey Das2123, thank you for replying. I just came back from cleaning the terminal connections, checking all the fuses and inspecting the wires. So far everything looks normal. I'm going to swap the relay see what happens.
RyanHilliker
11-12-2005, 03:40 PM
The Neon gets really angry if it doesn't have a lot of juice. Checking for corossion is always a first thing to do. High current flow or shorting of a particular device can cause corrosion across the terminals, even if not visibly evident.
If you are hearing a loud "CLICK!" from your starter motor then it means that your starter may or may not be getting enough juice to start your engine. So what you should do is check your starter (and the starter connections)). So to check your starter first disconnect all electrical connections from it. Then remove your battery and it's casing from the car (this requires that you have to remove some screws by accessing from under neath the vehicle, but if you have any tiny friends then you don't even have to jack up the car to remove the starter :)). Of course before you can remove the battery casing you have to disconnect the black box with all of those wires with your relays and crap from the side of it, which is fairly simple to do.
Okay, so now you've removed your battery, the battery casing (which includes the holder) and just put that big black relay/fuse box towards the firewall. Now you will be looking at your transaxle. Okay. Your starter motor is mounted with only 2 really long bolts. One bolt will be found facing the drivers side of the vehicle and it goes through the casing of the transaxle. Remove that one. Now the other one is lower by a couple inches and facing the passengers side. It's a tricky one, but you can undo it from the top of the car. Now you can slide the starter out from the left side and out from the top of the car.
You test your starter by applying ground to the case of the starter, a large positive wire to the obvious positive terminal, and then apply positive to that tiny little connection. That's how you test it.
You can pick up a new starter at an auto-wrecker for $69 CDN so probably like $45 USD.
But first clean off all terminal connections really really well and check your starter terminal connections and clean those off anyways too. Just basically clean the shit out of every electrical connector that goes to your starter including your battery (like literally use steel wool and scratch it right up to clean off all bad things). Then if that doesn't work then remove and test your starter.
If you are hearing a loud "CLICK!" from your starter motor then it means that your starter may or may not be getting enough juice to start your engine. So what you should do is check your starter (and the starter connections)). So to check your starter first disconnect all electrical connections from it. Then remove your battery and it's casing from the car (this requires that you have to remove some screws by accessing from under neath the vehicle, but if you have any tiny friends then you don't even have to jack up the car to remove the starter :)). Of course before you can remove the battery casing you have to disconnect the black box with all of those wires with your relays and crap from the side of it, which is fairly simple to do.
Okay, so now you've removed your battery, the battery casing (which includes the holder) and just put that big black relay/fuse box towards the firewall. Now you will be looking at your transaxle. Okay. Your starter motor is mounted with only 2 really long bolts. One bolt will be found facing the drivers side of the vehicle and it goes through the casing of the transaxle. Remove that one. Now the other one is lower by a couple inches and facing the passengers side. It's a tricky one, but you can undo it from the top of the car. Now you can slide the starter out from the left side and out from the top of the car.
You test your starter by applying ground to the case of the starter, a large positive wire to the obvious positive terminal, and then apply positive to that tiny little connection. That's how you test it.
You can pick up a new starter at an auto-wrecker for $69 CDN so probably like $45 USD.
But first clean off all terminal connections really really well and check your starter terminal connections and clean those off anyways too. Just basically clean the shit out of every electrical connector that goes to your starter including your battery (like literally use steel wool and scratch it right up to clean off all bad things). Then if that doesn't work then remove and test your starter.
das2123
11-12-2005, 08:08 PM
Your starter motor is mounted with only 2 really long bolts. One bolt will be found facing the drivers side of the vehicle and it goes through the casing of the transaxle.
I have replaced the starter before on a neon and it's a pain.He said he has already replaced a starter and knows how :)
I have replaced the starter before on a neon and it's a pain.He said he has already replaced a starter and knows how :)
Mic1980
11-14-2005, 02:58 AM
Relay works fine,horn worked. Tomorrow I'm gonna push the car to my house and try to read the voltage from the starter solenoid and see if it's good. Though I don't know what standard volt reading to look for.
I also read somewhere to find out if your ignition is working is to turn on the head lights when trying to start and if they dimmer it's a good sign that they are working so thats what i'll be doing before replacing the starter.
PS: I have replaced the starter like 2 years ago. I remember taking it out from the bottom and unscrewing the motor mount bolt. I did remove the battery casing and such but I no longer remember why o.0
I also read somewhere to find out if your ignition is working is to turn on the head lights when trying to start and if they dimmer it's a good sign that they are working so thats what i'll be doing before replacing the starter.
PS: I have replaced the starter like 2 years ago. I remember taking it out from the bottom and unscrewing the motor mount bolt. I did remove the battery casing and such but I no longer remember why o.0
Mic1980
11-16-2005, 11:15 AM
Ok I never checked the voltage on the starter, instead I took it to a place to test it and it was running slow so he rebuilt it and I installed it and I'm still getting the same crap, 100.00 bucs down the drain which wasn't even my money :(
So I'm thinking it's the ignition, or the wire from the starter to the battery or maybe the old terminals. If not that I have no clue, guys plz help me out, thanks again
~Mic
So I'm thinking it's the ignition, or the wire from the starter to the battery or maybe the old terminals. If not that I have no clue, guys plz help me out, thanks again
~Mic
das2123
11-16-2005, 11:30 AM
So I'm thinking it's the ignition, or the wire from the starter to the battery or maybe the old terminals. If not that I have no clue, guys plz help me out, thanks againCheck those wires for corrosion and make sure the connections are good. I'd almost bet that they are your problem.
Mic1980
11-16-2005, 11:48 AM
It's hard to tell if they're corroded. I mean My regular battery terminals seem messed up as in deformed but I did scrape them. Also the solenoid wire I don't remember if it's suppose to be colored gold I do believe it was silver lol. Anyway I'm going to hit up Autozone now and replace all three wires and pray to god. If thats the case man, I probably could've saved $160.00 bucs o.0
PS: One time when playing with the key in the ignition the car did make some noise but it never happened again.
PS: One time when playing with the key in the ignition the car did make some noise but it never happened again.
Mic1980
11-16-2005, 02:45 PM
I just replaced the terminals. Thoroughly cleansed the positive solenoid wire and negative starter wire.
Nuthing...... I'm thinking my engine is either siezed now or the ignition is faulty because the wires are legit, I replaced the battery and starter. When I turn that key I hear nuthing at all.
Nuthing...... I'm thinking my engine is either siezed now or the ignition is faulty because the wires are legit, I replaced the battery and starter. When I turn that key I hear nuthing at all.
das2123
11-16-2005, 03:21 PM
When I turn that key I hear nuthing at all.Do you get interior lights or chimes working? Will it crank with a jump? DO you hear the fuel pump priming?
Mic1980
11-16-2005, 05:04 PM
Always got interior lights. Will not crank on jump. Always heard the fuel pump buzzing. However I finaly got it to start. Basicaly I moved the tranny from park to 1 back and forth left it on neutral and it started. I don't get it though because the tranny locked went to nuetral and all seemed normal.
Note: I did set it to nuetral before but it never started but this time it did.
My Neon has a bad tranny which is probably lose and needs to be retorqued. Das thanks for helping me out bro I appreciate it I'm gonna hang around here and learn a bit from others. Peace
Note: I did set it to nuetral before but it never started but this time it did.
My Neon has a bad tranny which is probably lose and needs to be retorqued. Das thanks for helping me out bro I appreciate it I'm gonna hang around here and learn a bit from others. Peace
das2123
11-16-2005, 06:05 PM
Note: I did set it to nuetral before but it never started but this time it did.Check your neutral/safety switch...it may be bad or not seated correctly.
Das thanks for helping me out bro I appreciate it I'm gonna hang around here and learn a bit from others. PeaceYour welcome and that's what we are here for.
Das thanks for helping me out bro I appreciate it I'm gonna hang around here and learn a bit from others. PeaceYour welcome and that's what we are here for.
Mic1980
11-16-2005, 07:05 PM
Nuetral safety switch?
the tab near the shift stick?
the tab near the shift stick?
das2123
11-16-2005, 07:36 PM
Nuetral safety switch?
the tab near the shift stick?My bad...wrong post! Have you checked your grounds? Two other things come to mind are crank and camshaft position sensor.
the tab near the shift stick?My bad...wrong post! Have you checked your grounds? Two other things come to mind are crank and camshaft position sensor.
Mic1980
11-16-2005, 07:48 PM
Yeah grounds are fine. My tranny is most liekly lose from all the cold bangs it has receieved. If I go in reverse when engine is cold my tranny will wait a few seconds then just BANG! get in gear. From this happening like 20 times threw out it's life span probably loosened some bolts.
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