fuel pump wont stop!

alright, you know when you first turn the key to the "on" position, you hear the fuel pump going for about 2-3 seconds and then stops. BUT, when I turn the key, the fuel pump doesnt stop.. it keeps going and going and now it takes about 3-5 cranks to start up the engine when before it would fire up on the frist crank.

you're fucked. haha

no really, maybe try replacing the relay and then see if it still does it. if the problem is the actual pump you might have to drop the tank again...didn't you just replace it? i know i did....lotsa fun.

My guess would be that the pump isn't able to build up pressure to prime the system. Not sure what exactly the reason could be. I just had to drop the tank on my winter beater for the same thing and found out that one of the fuel lines close to the pump was leaking so I had to replace the whole damn pump.

yeah man i just replaced it.. it was a pain = ( it has a brand new pump in it..

you're fucked. haha

no really, maybe try replacing the relay and then see if it still does it. if the problem is the actual pump you might have to drop the tank again...didn't you just replace it? i know i did....lotsa fun.

Oh yeah that was big time fun, I had to do it too. :mad: Well I also think its the relay.. doesnt cost much either.

Yeah, relay sounds right. But does your oil pressure gauge work right? The fuel pump runs as soon as it sees oil pressure. If you loose oil pressure, the car will die.... comforting......

Yeah, relay sounds right. But does your oil pressure gauge work right? The fuel pump runs as soon as it sees oil pressure. If you loose oil pressure, the car will die.... comforting......


yuuup.. my oil pressure gauge works fine. The fuel pump relay is on the passenger or drivers side in the engine bay?

driver side

What's the progress on this, I'm curious.

ive been slacking off lately and ive been driving my daily driver (POS corolla). I got a new TPS and a new IAC but have yet to install them. My check engine light came on today when I turned my car on.. ill pull the code. Havent checked the fuel pump relay yet. i dont have time =(

IS yours a MAF or Speed density system?

speed density

That car hates you

i highly doubt the bad relay... if that was bad it wouldn't turn on. uness for some odd reason it's not sending the right amount of voltage... but this is probably not likely. just like CamarosRsweet said, the pump continues to run until it has built up sufficient pressure, the fact that it is taking longer means there is a pressure leak somewhere or the pump is defective. lack of pressure is why your car takes longer to start.

is gas cap installed correctly and holding pressure?
leaking fuel anywhere?
reset computer.
exchange fuel pump (I know... it sucks)

this is the part where I'd start thinking about buying an external pump.

this is the part where I'd start thinking about buying an external pump.

Those are only for older cars that had manual fuel pumps. Damn you with your carbed cars, DAMN YOU! Or if there are some external ones, then damn you as well.

That car hates you

lmao :eek7: man this sucks. i have this weekend to work stuff out so ill see what i can do.

i highly doubt the bad relay... if that was bad it wouldn't turn on. uness for some odd reason it's not sending the right amount of voltage... but this is probably not likely. just like CamarosRsweet said, the pump continues to run until it has built up sufficient pressure, the fact that it is taking longer means there is a pressure leak somewhere or the pump is defective. lack of pressure is why your car takes longer to start.

is gas cap installed correctly and holding pressure?
leaking fuel anywhere?
reset computer.
exchange fuel pump (I know... it sucks)


hmm.. well.. it isnt that it takes longer.. it just doenst stop at all. even when i turn the key to turn on the stereo or whatever, you hear it going the whole time. THEN, it sounds like it doesnt want to turn on but i step on the gas and it turns on.. odd cause stepping on the gas just lets in air. and when i turn on the car and i need to give it 'gas', the check engine light stays on. ill see what the code is whenever i have time.. we'll see what it is

You know, at first glance i thought it may be a relay. But after reading up on your vehicle, i noticed something. When you turn your ignition to run, the PCM commands the pump to operate for 2 seconds, no matter what the fuel system pressure is. So it seems to me that the PCM won't stop sending voltage to the fuel pump relay, which would indicate a bad PCM. There is a fuel pump test wire located beside the relay(one red wire w/ a black connector). Make sure it's not hooked up to anything.

Those are only for older cars that had manual fuel pumps. Damn you with your carbed cars, DAMN YOU! Or if there are some external ones, then damn you as well.

Yes there is external electric pumps, and I will have one whenever I have to drop my tank.

yeah a few people have told me its probaly my ecm thats fucked up. Is there any way to check that? If its badm I need to replace the whole thing and get a new PROM or just the unit itself? If I need to replace both, I might as well get a customed burned PROM since I'm gonna start to modify it.

sounds like a bad pressure regulator, not a bad pump. with fuel injected cars there are two fuel lines, a supply and return. the fuel pump sends fuel up the supply line and into the fuel rails, then the fuel hits the pressure regulator that allows the pressure to build, but because the fuel pump only runs at one speed, and does not alter in relation to pressure the gas has to get out somehow, thats where the pressure regulator comes in, if the pressure gets too high it allows fuel to release out of the fuel rails and down the return line to the gas tank. it sounds to me like your pressure regulator is stuck open or something. its going to be located on a fuel line between the two fuel rails just in front of the distributor, im thinkin youre gonna have to remove the upper plenium to swap it out.

Ahh look whos back.. wow i learned something today thanks 89. :screwy: uhh would this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-1992-Camaro-Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33553QQitemZ8 010618915QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V) work? So because of the other problems I was having, I think its either my sensors TPS, IAC (which i havent installed) or my ECM.. do the sensors get screwed up if the car is garaged and not used for like 2 years? well thats what happened before I got the car so I dont know if the sensors are bad cause of that or other reasons.

ahhh so could my bad fuel pressure regulator be the cause that my car revvs on its own when stopped or something. it just lunges forward by itself when at a stoplight after idleing for a while.

You got yourself a lemon, and you will have to replace everyting thats typical to these cars. First its not likely that its the pump (unless you screwed up the pulsator) connect the gage by the way. Usualy a warm start would be a problem. Yours lies in the Coolant temp sensor or cold start injector. If it was overheating before i would assume that. maybe leaking injectors (not likely thoug) They dont really set codes all the time either. If you had a bad pump your acceleration would suffer.

I suggest that when doing a pump you can convert it into a 2 piece system from an old BMW cars.1 bosh pump goes inside (they last a long longer) and another one goes outside (its huge and delivers gigantic amounts of gas) plus you wire it to a relay and activate manualy (can be used as an antitheft device), also i would get a pressure regulator because those pumps develop 70psi. And you can always prime the system yourself in case if it run out of gas or whatever. Also consider getting a 4 gallon fuel cell and a jerry can.

the aftermarket adjustable regulator would work, although normally id stick with a factory replacement when i was diagnosing something. the lunge, does it only happen in gear? or even in neutral? if it happens in neutral, its definatly engine related, if its in gear it could be a tranny problem.

parking a car for 2 years shouldnt hurt the sensors, what it might do is allow the gasoline to varnish and cause problems. did you flush all the old gas out before starting it?? and run a can of injector cleaner through it???? if not, id say you have some gasoline deposits like varnish and resin causing you problems.

You got yourself a lemon, and you will have to replace everyting thats typical to these cars. First its not likely that its the pump (unless you screwed up the pulsator) connect the gage by the way. Usualy a warm start would be a problem. Yours lies in the Coolant temp sensor or cold start injector. If it was overheating before i would assume that. maybe leaking injectors (not likely thoug) They dont really set codes all the time either. If you had a bad pump your acceleration would suffer.

I suggest that when doing a pump you can convert it into a 2 piece system from an old BMW cars.1 bosh pump goes inside (they last a long longer) and another one goes outside (its huge and delivers gigantic amounts of gas) plus you wire it to a relay and activate manualy (can be used as an antitheft device), also i would get a pressure regulator because those pumps develop 70psi. And you can always prime the system yourself in case if it run out of gas or whatever. Also consider getting a 4 gallon fuel cell and a jerry can.

I have a brand new coolant temp. sensor, new fuel injectors and my car doesnt have a cold start injector. i dont know about the BMW pump oh yeah, i have a brand new pump as well.

the aftermarket adjustable regulator would work, although normally id stick with a factory replacement when i was diagnosing something. the lunge, does it only happen in gear? or even in neutral? if it happens in neutral, its definatly engine related, if its in gear it could be a tranny problem.

parking a car for 2 years shouldnt hurt the sensors, what it might do is allow the gasoline to varnish and cause problems. did you flush all the old gas out before starting it?? and run a can of injector cleaner through it???? if not, id say you have some gasoline deposits like varnish and resin causing you problems.

cool. alright, sometimes, when it reaches operating temparature, and im stopped for long periods of time (like trying to get out of a crowded parking lot and waiting and waiting while in [D]) it just gives itself gas, it just goes vroom by itself and moves a few inches or like half a foot forward, good thing im holding the brake down during this. it has done this to me three times, all on different days and it doesnt do it all the time but thats why when im stopped, i just put it in N. Its really odd i know and i have no clue whats causing it. When I got the car, i didnt drain the old gas, it didnt have much, like almost empty and we put in gas on the drive home. I also did put some of that Techron fuel system cleaner from Chevron that same day.

Bad injector? mAybe or too much pressure. Doest it look like its choked and runs real rich. Also I experienced it myself on a carbed car and after a couple used carbs I concluded it was a bad stall converter. Not sure tough.

Bad IAC may do it too

I didn't even think about the regulator... man I gotta get back into the hang of this... it's been a while.

yeah sometimes it seems like its running rich.. the smell sometimes is real strong but only once in a while. this varies a lot which leads me to believe its something like IAC or something that changes constantly.

I didn't even think about the regulator... man I gotta get back into the hang of this... it's been a while.

damn, your car is looking sweeeet. what color is it going to get painted? maan the rims on it look badass too.. i would say a gunmetal color would suit it. :smokin: its gonna be a hell of a 'v6 RS' hahaha. you better put on the RS badges on in the end. :iceslolan

thanks. I thought about gunmetal myself. but I would have to do it in a way that it would stand out... that is the challenge.

I am putting the RS badges back on... it's still an RS in essence, just a highly modified one.

here's the update
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=3575579&goto=3575579

Hav you checked your TPS yet?

that is bad ass looking

the surge could be related to the pressure regulator, but very unlikely, id say thats just the continuously running pump. the surge like has already been said could be related to either the TPS or IAC, or even the O2 and MAP or MAF sensors. But most likely in my opinion is the TPS. the IAC tends to cut air rather than add it. causing low idle stalls. ID check your TPS out with a multimeter and see if you cant get it to give erradic signals. then if it does, replace it. you shouldnt have any other problems.

I agree with 89iroc. If the IAC quits, the motor will stay in one place. If it quit while the engine was warm, then the vehicle will idle good warm, but shitty cold....and vice-versa..

ahh big relief. I got my TPS checked, the meter was jumping around.. I dont know what could have caused it to go bad. I drove it around ALL day today, took it to school and took the street on the way back. I made sure to keep a distance between the car ahead of me while at red lights and its bad here in rush hour traffic in LA. NO PROBLEMS! maaaan im so happy. just in time too, i usually go cruising around on friday and saturday nights. man im so glad. thanks a lot.

Awesome, glad to hear it...I hear ya on the cruisin' heheheh

im also chaning the IAC on saturday just for peace of mind. My uncle said it could have been my torque converter so I was shitting bricks. Im just glad its over.. then again i dont wanna ginx it. but woohoo im happy.

Awesome, glad to hear it...I hear ya on the cruisin' heheheh


you play bass? or guitar? its hard to tell but I think bass cause of the long neck.. i play guitar and the drums... its an awesome time killer to jam out.

Nah, it's a customized telecaster with an extended baritone neck(Deep Growl). I play drums as well.... what kinda music you play? Mainly metal and rock here..

glad to help, i get a few right from time to time ;)